I just saw in a hobby shop today that I don't go into all the time and he had a Con Cor 0-8-0. I didn't know CC had made an 0-8-0. Does anybody know anything about these? Thanks, Bob
AFAIK, it's the old Atlas/Rivarossi engine. I bought one in a hobby shop new, took it home, set it on the rails, and the motor promptly cooked itself. So I took it back. Bought a used one at a train show, it didn't run so great so I bought an Accurate Lighting repower kit, and it's actually tolerable now.
Rivarossi did update the motor and "improve" the looks a bit for Concor so, it just might be a later edition. I have one of the Concor/Rivarossi Pacifics and it does run just a wee bit better than the original Atlas/Rivarossi, albeit a little noisier. Of prime importance is the frame. The originals made for Atlas had a frame made of some sort of "pressed metal" which, over the years, tended to disintegrate ( I have a few in the scrapbox that just fell apart) but, the newer Rivarossi frames look a little more solid and robust. The texture of the newer frame is a little smoother than the older ones which look and feel "grainy". Try it out and examine it before making a buying decision. If you can get a good running one, they are a nice little loco. Dick
I have seen several posts talking about the "upgraded" motor in IHB 0-8-0s produced for ConCor.... While there was a run of Pacifics with Mabuchi or Sagami motors, and the 2-8-4s came with Sagamis, and the Challenger and retooled Big Boys had Mabuchis, to my knowledge the 0-8-0s always had the same Rivarossi round can motor, some black, some silver, but all with the same basic construction with the rubber ring magnent. At least I never saw any different in time I worked at JMC/ConCor or before then as a frequent customer.... As has been stated before, the big problem with the 0-8-0 was not the motor, but the drive train. The drivers were very difficult to keep in quarter due to the basic design and a bottom driver retainer plate which was too flimsy.... burned out motors are a result of side rod bind due to the drivers jumping quarter (or frame rot on some units which binds the idler gear inside the frame). Charlie
