Code 83 Options

I tried a search but my search-fu and train board are not compatible apparently.

So what is the low done on Code 83? I am thinking code 83 as it looks to be a middle ground.

ME, Peco, and Atlas are what I am aware of.

ME - flexes and holds like in N, only #6 available commercially, but can be handlaid and fasttracks jigs.

Otherwise, I really know nothing of the differences between Peco and Atlas.

I would like to handlay in the future. Early on I won't. But I know the further I get into this, I will at least build my own turnouts.

My LHS has none of the above.

Thanks,

 

Peco and ME turnouts have a tension spring to hold the points. Atlas does not.

Also for check out Proto:87 Stores Switch-Works assembly fixtures http://www.proto87.com/fast-turnout-track-fixtures.html for a very realistic alternative to handlaying.

 

I have no experience with Peco code 83 track or switches so can't address that brand.

I have used ME and Atlas code 83 on my present layout, but have ended up favoring the Atlas C.83 because it's a joy to lay - the ME, especially on curves - not so much. My intent was to use all ME weathered C.83, well it really doesn't like to be bent. After I fought the ME into place, received a DVD by Tony Koester showing an "easy" way to curve the 3 ft. sections of ME which involve making a template of proper radius and "whacking" the ME into the desired curve.

Do prefer the ME switches because of that detent mechanism built in. I'll use Caboose Industries ground throws on the Atlas switches.

Another option and one I'm looking into for use on my second layout are the Central Valley flexible ties and switch blocks. Here, you put down the ties and thread your code 70 or 83 through. I really like he look of their branchline tie blocks.

 

I think I'll stick to Atlas for my next go-round. I currently use their Code 100, but it looks too heavy in photos at ground level. I use Peco Code 83 Streamline insulated frog #6 turnouts exclusively in my yard. They are very nice, so far very reliable. They cost more than just about any of the others. I have also made several turnouts using the Fast Tracks method, including two that were scratch-built in place due to their unique requirements.

I would like to try ME code 70 for some branch applications just to say I have used it, but it sounds like it could be a challenge, perhaps a frustration.

 

Atlas flex has been known to kink and come out of shape as it wants to return to its original shape (like wire). however that can be fixed by ensuring that you have it all set and down well.

I have used or belonged to clubs that used a mixture of shinohara, ME, peco, Atlas, and Walthers (technically shinohara) turnouts. Heres what I have to say about them.

Atlas: cheap, reliable turnouts. Suggest a switch machine or ground throw to hold them over, without anything they flop around easily and will derail trains. Make sure you have power readily available around the switch. While it might not be an issue at first, some atlas turnouts have been known to have their power routing circuity corrode and stop routing power. Really a pain to fix if scenery is in.

ME: Only seen one switch. Works really similar to the pecos and will snap over, eliminating the flop of the atlas turnout. Never had any apparent flaws but I didn't work with it. ME only makes a #6 though, so your stuck there. One notice here. While advertised as code 83, these switches are technically code 82, close, but you do need to make sure that the joints at either end are smooth and don't have any bumps.

Peco: they make a nice switch, always will power route properly and will snap over and stay over. Newtons law requires a decent force beyond what our models can do to throw this switch. However they sell them in odd radius's and some equipment is known to pick at them (notably units with stiff frames and long wheelbases) but its not a constant thing.

Shinohara/walthers: One of the best selections and good looking turnouts. None of the power routing will corrode. But they have one big flaw. There are little copper/bronze tabs that slide under the rails on the outside of the switch when it is thrown to route power. You NEED a switch machine or ground throw to keep the switch all the way over, or the tabs will not fully contact and your engines will stall on the turnout (been there, done that MANY times). Another thing is those bronze tabs will sometimes shift in there mounts and stop making contact all together. It requires a little fiddling with a knife or slot screwdriver to correct, sometimes a conductive fluid like rail zip will work. We use these as our exclusive turnouts on the mainline at my club, they have never been the direct cause of derailments or major issues. however those conductive tabs do put a few holes in the turnouts reputation.



These are all good manufactures. The way I've done my home layout is used a mixture of turnouts from different brands. I use atlas for my siding and yard turnouts because they are reliable for tracking when a ground throw is used. I have shinoharas on my mainline for sidings with large number frogs (6's and 8's) and I have one lone peco turnout that I have in storage for future projects.

My only suggestion is to find what switch offers a feature that suits you and costs a price you are willing to pay and buy them. You don't need to pick one exclusive brand.

 

For me, code 100 was yesterday. Now I use code 70 for mainline. I build a narrow gauge layout with code 55 and spurs with code 40 (and turnouts too).
With my Westport Terminal RR I've used Peco flextrack and turnouts, electrofrog. Sometimes you will have a critter and need powered frogs. Without powered frogs I couldn't run my 25ton.

Wolfgang