I finished the framing for my benchwork and now I need a tabletop. Would chipboard be ok? That's the stuff that's made up of pressed woodchips bonded with glue. I'd use that on top of the framing and then put 1" thick styrofoam (pink stuff) on top of that and lay the track on the foam. The chipboard is light and very cheap... about $7 for a 4x8 sheet. I don't want to use plywood as that's pretty heavy in comparison and much more expensive. Anyone out there using chip-board? BTW, homasote (sp?) doesn't seem to be available here. So it's either chip-board, plywood or straight styrofoam, which wouldn't be very strong. D6
Hey D6!! I tried chip board several years ago. Maybe I didn't get the right thickness because within a few weeks it warped pretty badly. My current layout is 2x4 foot foam sheets over wood framework. I think if the frame is built with closely spaced cross members the foam is supported will and weight on top won't be a problem. Let us know what you decide on and how it goes!! Happy Modeling!! John ------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!!
I agree with John. Spacing of formers would be crucial and the board would have to be firmly attached. Not sure how much water it could take when you get into scenery building. In my opinion you would be far better of to use plywood. A bit more expensive but may save you from headaches in the future. ------------------ Robin member #35 Maberly and Tayside
One question--Why do you need a table top on your bench work? Why not just support your trackwork with a plywood roadbed. What I mean is cut out sections for the roadbed from plywood, then put down cork roadbed on the plywood, then put down your trackwork, and cover with ballast. This way you don't end up with a flat table with a railroad on it. You can make the rest of your scenery from a styrofoam base, hills, creeks, rivers, are real easy to do with styrofoam base. That table top can be real noisey also. You don't realize how much noise N-Scale can make till you do a flat table top. I would suggest that you check out MODEL RAILROADER'S BOOK(Kalmbach Publishing)---HOW TO BUILD MODEL RAILROAD BENCHWORK. This book gives you good ideas on how to build a good roadbed for your trackwork. ------------------ Let's Go Run Trains MARK
A few years ago, here in England, the norm was to use 1/2" chipboard, with 2" x 1" framing at 12" centers. This makes for a heavy board, so when I made my Belgian layout to take around to train shows, I used 1/4" plywood, with 3" strips of the same material for framing. This made the boards very light and easy to transport. I was dubious at first that they would be robust enough, but they were never any problem, and performed faultlessly throughout the period when they were regularly taken to exhibitions. It is more a question of design, than the materials used, so you do not need to have very heavy boards for them to be robust. If they are for a permanent layout, it does not matter so much, of course ------------------ Alan Curtis. Moderator. Member #12 The perfect combination - BNSF and N Scale! www.alancurtismodels.com Andersley Western Railroad Alan's American Gallery
Hey Deep Sixx, I used the same wood you are talking about. It has been in place for over a year now and has not warped. The framing is 1x4 white pine and the legs are made of 2x4's and a few 3x3's. Odd size for legs but free so I went with them. On top of this is a layer of 2" thick white bead sheet styrofoam. I know it's messy but again it was free and in 4x8 sheets. Like I said, no problems so far but my layout is in a climate controlled area of the basement. ------------------ Richard Turney [This message has been edited by BNSF FAN (edited 30 December 2000).]
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by BNSF FAN: Hey Deep Sixx, I used the same wood you are talking about. It has been in place for over a year now and has not warped. The framing is 1x4 white pine and the legs are made of 2x4's and a few 3x3's. Odd size for legs but free so I went with them. On top of this is a layer of 2" thick white bead sheet styrofoam. I know it's messy but again it was free and in 4x8 sheets. Like I said, no problems so far but my layout is in a climate controlled area of the basement. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Richard, I too went with white beadboard because of the incredible deal I got at home depot . This will form the layout base. Although some carving of this stuff will be done, most of the scenery will be the pink foam attached to the beadboard base . All of this sits (incredibly)on 1 x 2 furring strip framework and legs. This stuff is cheap, lightweight and with proper shoring is quite rigid. Happy modeling!! John ------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!!
my new N scale layout has 1x3 for cribbing, with 1/2 inch sheet of older plywood, and then a sheet of 1 inch homosote, a good 36x42 inch section ain't to heavy the legs will be bolt-on 2x4s with a wooden pad so It won't destroy the carpet. ------------------ TrainBoard.com MEMBER#204 Appalachian & Atlantic Model Railroad "QUALITY at WORK with SAFTEY in MIND"
JCater, that's basically what I am doing. I just went a little overboard on the framework. Would rather have too much than not enough. All the benchwork on my layout is built in sections so that if I ever have to move it, I won't loose the whole thing. What are you planning on using on top of the styrofoam for scenery? I figured I would use hydrocal or something like it. ------------------ Richard Turney [This message has been edited by BNSF FAN (edited 30 December 2000).]
The Grande Valley is set on 1/2in. plywood with 1/2in. blueboard on top of that with Midwest cork road bed.Nost sections are 4ft. long incase I ever want to move.The blue board is thick enough to do small streams and is easy to glue thicker pieces to for making hills and such.Around here (West Mich.) the blue board in this thickness is usually $8.00 or less for a 4'x8' sheet.The main problem with homosote is if you are doing water soluble schenery you have to seal all edges of the homosote because it will swell up from the moisture and warp permanantly. ------------------ Catt!#118 - A freelancer to the very end [This message has been edited by Catt (edited 30 December 2000).]
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by BNSF FAN: JCater, that's basically what I am doing. I just went a little overboard on the framework. Would rather have too much than not enough. All the benchwork on my layout is built in sections so that if I ever have to move it, I won't loose the whole thing. What are you planning on using on top of the styrofoam for scenery? I figured I would use hydrocal or something like it. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I'm planning on using the blue or pink insulation board as it is easier to cut and mold. This will be painted and covered directly with scenic materials. Since I am modeling New Mexico, the foam will serve well as mesas. Happy Modeling!! John ------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!!
All my modules are 1x4's with 1/4-20 bolted 2x2 legs. Track bed is screwed to uprights mounted to cross members of 1x4. Roadbed is band sawed to shape as needed, leveled or elevated (for curves) and sanded for smootheness. The roadbed is two thicknesses of 3/8" plywood glued together after mounting the lower one to uprights. Very rigid. Foam "ballast" is glued next, then Peco flex is glued to that. Scenery will be builder's foam with thin papier mache coating for texture and light weight. ------------------ Watash #982
I would avoid particle board like the plague. I once used it for a rather large layout and experienced some significant expansion and contraction due to changes in humidity. In the end I needed to tear the entire layout apart and start over again. You may want to consider plywood sheathing for the base instead. Half inch sheathing it not much more expensive than chip board but is much more stable. Alternatively, you may want to use 1.5 inch foam for your base and avoid the chipboard or plywood altogether. The January Model Railroader has an article taking this approach. BTW Homasote is virtually impossible to get here in Canada. ------------------ Grant grantha@Canada.com CEO Wascana Sherwood Lines [This message has been edited by Grantha (edited 31 December 2000).]
I just built a table for my son's layout using 4X8 OSB. It's also called wafer board. Commonly used for the sheathing of buildings and roofs. I built a 2X4 "closed H" under the OSB and built legs out of ripped 2X4's. It's as solid as you can get, and should work well. Only took 2 hours to build with my nail gun, cordless drill, and belt sander. I learned the hard way that raised track does not like any flex at all when you move the layout. Mark. P.S. I model in HO, but you guys have some good information as well, so I "peek" in every once in a while.
Just completed my basic benchwork this past weekend. Cut 3/4 plywood into 5" strips and screwed and glued it all together so it is rather light weight and strong enough for me to stand on. Put spacers about every 2' and glued 1 1/2 Owens Corning Pink Board on top. Should have pictures on my web site by this weekend of the process so far. Really makes me feel good to look in the train room and actually see a layout taking shape. Started the room 13 months ago and now getting closer to running trains O'boy O'boy.
I use 1/4" luan plywood, and put 3/4" X 1" high pine around the edge. Then I put blue or pink foam down on the plywood. I use the blue or pink as it doesn't pill. This is very light and with a frame then it can have legs, and be connected to other sections. So far this has worked perfect, and has allowed moves with ease. I use 1" foam, but do add more for hills. We don't have any big valleys but could easily change the design to have 2 or 4 " foam if we wanted to. We do almost a checkboard type of arrangement with these section, and then anchor it together. Art
