Cement or Nail?

I have plywood (4 ply 1/2") as the subroadbed with midwest cork glued (DAP contact cement) to that. Should my track (Atlas N scale) be glued down or nailed? Right now it is tacked in as I lay and solder. I could just put the nails all the way in and be finished. I will be ballasting. Heat and Humidity aren't really an issue here in the Pacific NW.

 

I always used to tack my track down with Atlas track nails. It worked well, except when the nail decided to bend over, or the tie split.

Then, this summer I tried using Woodland Scenics Foam Tack cement for laying track, and I was quite pleased. The cement dried relatively quickly, and held the track quite well. All I had to do was hold the track in place, which I did with pushpins.

Which is better? It's easier to change the position of the track when it's tacked down, but I think it's harder to hold in place while you're hammering. I guess it might depend on if you're planning on moving the track more than once. Try both ways and see how it works for you.

Pat

 

I wouldn’t use nails, as they simply are not realistic - even after ballasting. The nail goes through the center of the tie and that part is not normally ballasted. I personally use water-based contact cement brushed on the bottom of the track and on top of the cork roadbed (I also use this method for the cork road bed). The contact cement dries clear, albeit permanent. On the next portion of my layout I am going to try "AMI instant roadbed". This is a butyl rubber material that comes in a 30-foot roll. You simply peel it off and roll it in place (no adhesive is required) on to your layout and then press the track into the AMI roadbed. The ballast is next, and is simply sprinkled onto the roadbed - also not requiring any adhesive. This is also used by the “Reid brothers” perhaps the most famous N-scale railroad of all. If Wayne and Bill use it how bad can it be…

 

True, nails in the center of the ties are not realistic,even when track is ballasted...so....just don't leave them there.

After ballasting, you remove the track nails, plug the holes in the ties with a dab of plastic wood, then touch up those ties with paint.


Problem gone, .....use the nails over again..
regards / Mike

 

Nice job Mike, just what I do. The Ballast holds the track in place. No, I don't glue the track down, just the ballast. Pretty much like the real thing.

 

I use regular formula Liquid Nails (or equivalent) on top of cork roadbed. I found that the regular formula holds better than the latex kind. This may seem like overkill in holding power for most layouts but my layout is located in my garage in Texas and the increased holding power is helpful for the temperature and humindty changes. I have been using this track attachment method for over 4 years and have not had a track come loose or move position yet.

 

I believe Atlas flex track has a memory, as opposed to Peco. How does the ballast only method hold up to the Atlas memory ( especially on curves)?

 

I've got a special pair of pliers for spiking down track and whatever else needs spiking. They're designed for use with MIG welders and have long square jaws. The ridges in the jaws hold nails securely while you push them in and there are flat hammer points on the sides if that little extra push is needed. Any welding supply store should have these for about $15 and they are very worth it!

 

There are no problems here, just nail it down, put on the ballast, let it set-up, then pull out the nails. It's a easy as that.

 

At first I used Atlas flex to create some exotic curves. Had a problem with the ballast releasing after age and the curve would slip out of alignment. Now I use Peco and no problem.

 

I just nail down, apply ballast, glue, let dry and run trains!