Just cleaned out the garage and found my hollow core door layout and I am going to try and bring it in and see if it fits, and then start laying some track on it. Might have to take my 2'x4' one down and put it in the attic which is right next to where it is set up. Pictures soon. There it is in the garage. Now to bring it in the house I have no clue what the track plan was, and I think I clued the roadbed down which I never do now. We will see. I just want to run some longer trains, IF it works out! The dashed roads lines and parking line are excellent, NOT! Must have been drunk, and I don't drink. Well alright, maybe too much coffee, obviously!
Well it's in the room, now what I am going to have to think about this. Might have to put it in the hallway or attic, till I figure it out. If I can even figure it out. We will see if it works or not!
So the 2'x4' goes in the attic for the time being That's the nice thing about the Two modules I have that are portable, basically! Sorry it's sideways, I am just over trying to make the images correct. You get the idea
Yep, the other 2'x4' module is in there all the time. Now the other will join it. And NO, none of the locomotives, rolling stock, etc... are in the garage or attic. Although some building are, but not many! Trains and other toy's are in a climate controlled environment, except when power goes out, like it has all Summer here in the South
Thankfully, the power has been stable here in TX this summer. We maintain our own power grid, isolated from the rest of the country. We do have some ability to import/export DC power to the US grid in OK and/or LA. Exchanging DC power keeps us from having to sync our grid frequency and phase with the national grid.
Thank you for that reminder. I have one Lionel locomotive in the attic that I need to retrieve and store in safer quarters TODAY.
The 19" Radius is awesome, that's why I have so many of those sectional pieces of track. Now to try and figure out the remaining layout plan as I have no photos from 10+ years ago, if not longer. Not sure how long I will leave the hollow core door up, but it will be interesting to see IF I can figure it out. Now to bust out the Kato locomotives and the CSX rolling stock to match them Should be fun, but going to try and piece some more of the track together. I have no clue what I had down as scenery, etc... Maybe I can scrap it up with a puddy knife? And vacuum it up? Back then all I had was DC, and pretty sure I had no blocks on this one. And obviously no scenery skills at all, that's true even today.
So I am guessing that I used white glue on the grass and such years ago. Can I spray water on what's left over to try and scrap it off, on the hollow core door. Will it warp anything if it will help break it loose? I thought I could just scrap it off, I thought wrong Got some more track laid down. I'm just having fun running longer trains. Some of my rolling stock is derailing in the inner loops. Didn't have these locomotives and rolling stock back then. It's all glued down now, roadbed, etc... so can't really change much. Basically just messing around for a bit really.
Should have done this when it was in the garage, oh well! Did not think about it till after I added the track, and was, and am not sure how long I'll play with it? If I can get all or most of the old scenery stuff off, probably awhile as I can start from scratch on placing items. Time to remove everything but the track. I might cover it with painters tape. Already unplugged power This could end up being a lot of fun, after all the hard work of scrapping the stuff off!
If you have a belt sander or random orbit sander, it'd make quick work of the existing surface. With 80 grit and some care, all things will be made anew.
I use IPA. I just squirt it on right out of the bottle. It soaked the grass enough to scrap it off and it doesn't sit on the wood as long as water. It evaporates pretty quickly. JMO
And if the old scenic materials don't come off, a cold glass filled with an IPA will make it matter a lot less.
Emphasis on the care! HCD skins are very thin, and coarse grit sanding belts can go through them like a hot knife through butter! The ROS would be gentler, as would a slightly finer (higher number) grit sand paper.