I would like to know what is the best slow motion switch machine on the market. Also has anyone used the digitrax DCS64 quad stationary decoder? If so how good is it. Here's a link http://www.digitrax.com/prd_statdec_ds64.php. Thank you in advance.
atsfrio: I have used Tortoises on my N-scale layouts for years, and have never had a problem with reliability. Even errors in standard installation or problems with one-of-a-kind linkages to solve specific cases where the Tortoise couldn't be positioned in the standard position (directly beneath the turnout), were ultimately resolve-able and the switch machines worked reliably. A friend modeling in HO has used both Tortoises and Switch Master machines on his layout. He mentioned once, that the Switch Master machines were a little more expensive to install than most of his original Tortoises (which he had purchased at a gigantic discount) and slightly easier for him to install/adjust, but, ultimately just as reliable as the Tortoises. You can purchase the basic Switch Master machine alone or with additional parts (toggle switches, mounting rings, micro-switch for frog power control, and LEDs). The Tortoises come with built in electrical circuitry (internal SPDT auxiliary switches) for signalling or DC power routing. The Tortoise instruction sheet states the auxiliary switches are robust enough to switch 1 amp but can carry 4 amps if it is not being switched. For switching heavier currents, they recommend using both sets of contacts in parallel, or connecting a relay to the output. I am using DS44s, DS54s, and DS64s on my current layout. The DS64s were definitely easier for me to program than the (now discontinued) DS54s. There is a learning curve for programming routes through multiple turnouts on the DS64s, but working slowly and methodically has produced great results on my layout.
Tortoise machines are probably the best to use. Speed is adjustable through varying the voltage if desired. Down side is the cost if it's an issue. I haven't used the DS64 as I have generally stand-alone installs so use NCE Switch-its. Any routes are controlled through macros.
I like the tortoise. They're easy and fast to install. The Switch master are a bit more quiet but you need additional contacts. With a tortois there's all inclusive. Wolfgang
It seam Circuitron's Tortoise is the reference. They also have the "Smail" which have an integrated decoder (so there is no need for the Digitrax DCS64 units) and adjustable throw speed. It should, in my humble opinion, take the cake right home .
Mark one more with a preference for tortoise machines. I use them on my NTRAK modules and the home layout. The extra contacts are great for powering frogs and signals. My modules use DS64's and NCE Switch its. Depends on the number of turnout on a module. DS64 can handle up to two turnouts per output (crossovers). Switch-its can do the same. DS64 allows for auxilliary input power to run the switches. Both types also have connections for local pushbutton control besides control from the throttle. This comes in handy when the guys are running analog on the layout. They can throw the switches with a single pushbutton and they don't even know that the whole works is running through a DCC decoder I fill BLMA electrical cabinets with epoxy and drill a hole in the fill to snug fit over the pushbuttons. Press the cabinet and the turnouts move. Martin Myers
I'm using Tortoise machines. They're good but: Kind of a pain to mount They're loud I don't like the solder pads for connections, I have to solder them all up to terminal blocks. They'd be nicer if they had a screw connections. I'd really like to try one of the servo packages available. I've seen 2 of them: Team Digital's SMC4 Anemodel's Smart Switch
Tortoises are bit noisy but I think it's a cool noise, tho: [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfoaUCkvTWE"]YouTube - Tortoise switch machine[/ame]
If you reduce the voltage they (Tortoises) are slower and quieter. I like a fairly leisurely travel, so I played around with variable voltages - I ended up running mine off 7.5V with LED indicators in series which means the motors actually see about 6V. Most people would probably want a bit more on them, say about 9V.
Truthfully, no. For the basic Tortoise (unless it's been changed since I got mine) you get the motor, a length of wire to bend and make the operating arm from, a screw to hold the latter in place, a slip-on plastic pivot point and the instruction sheet. Fixing is down to you. The base has four notches for holding it with screws, as I do, but some people glue them. I think I read somewhere that someone used self adhesive velcro tape, but I'm not sure if it was just an idea or worked either. You will of course also need to supply switches, wiring and power, and if you don't want to solder or screw direct to the terminals you'll need to get some sort of connector. Sounds a lot perhaps, but it's about par for the course with this sort of thing.
I guess I like mine slower than most. I run right around 5 volts to them. They move really slow, but I like that also. Most of them you can't even hear move, but some are still notoriously loud. At the local club we have a mix of Hankscraft and Tortoise, and it seems the Hankscraft are always burning out, even with voltage reducing resistors on them. For me, one big negative for the Hankscraft is the installation. Gotta use spacers or make your own mounting frame, and then use a bunch of linkage to get them to throw the turnout just right. And then you have some of that linkage showing above/next to the throwbar..... nope, not for me. I prefer the Tortoise's. Mike
I will cast my vote for the tortoise. I haven't used any other type of slow motion machine but I can't imagine any better. Through trial and error, and advice from others, I have found that getting the tortoise ready at the workbench is best. I solder wires to the tortoise then attach them to a terminal strip. Makes the rest of the wiring so much easier under the layout. Be sure to run wires from each connection on the tortoise for signals or powered turnouts, etc. You may not think you'll need them all now, but just imagine the pain in the butt it will be if you decide to later and have to try soldering under the benchwork! When I install the tortoise I use 2 sided tape to temporarily attach the machine until I have it lined up. Then two screws, one on each side, to hold it in place. If you have the turnout higher than the normal half inch or so above the tortoise you will need longer wire. I purchased some two foot long piano wire (.025) and cut them in half for installations up to 2 inches below the turnout. For anything more than that...I have a couple 5 inches below the turnout... you'll need a thicker wire. I use .047 and it works great. Finally, they work great with DCC. I'm using the DS-64's and have had no problems. Dave
Dave: Where did you position the fulcrum on the 5 inch long actuator wire? I've had problems with any longer actuator wire rising or falling so much as it makes its arc that it pulls out of the throwbar at the end of the arc, or pushes an inch or 2 above the throwbar when it points straight up in the center of the arc. Someone told me they thought a long actuator wire could be used without too much rise/fall if you used 2 fulcrum points, but I've never seen a proof of concept on that...
Hi Dave, I haven't had any problems like you describe. I have the fulcrum all the way up. I don't really have an idea on why the wire would move up and down like you describe. My biggest problem was drilling a hole through the foam and benchwork that was large enough to allow the wire to move all the way back and forth. Dave
