Need some help in deciding what type of benchwork to utilize in ngauge.... read where L girder with open grid seems to be best ... I'm thinking about a dogbone format for my railroad .... some advise ... new to railroading, weekend warrior at this point ..... Thank you
L grider is a great way to build beachworrk. Once you do landscaping you will have lot of possibities.
L girder gives the most flexibility in creating landscape countours and differences in track elevation relative to the surrounding scenery. A quick way to adjust the vertical risers is to use a sheet-rock screw -- they are threaded their entire length and make it easy to adjust the track subroadbed up or down. See this article http://www.trains.com/content/dynamic/articles/000/000/000/057qskll.asp or this Kalmbach how-to book: How to Build Model Railroad Benchwork, 2nd Edition By Linn H.Westcott Demonstrates how to plan and build the basic framework to support layouts of any size, shape, or gauge. 8 1/4" x 10 3/4"; 80 pgs.; 115 B&W photos; 120 Illustrations; Item No: 12175 perfect-bound softcover; Retail Price: $14.95 eNjoy Don B
Mack, Firstly welcome to Trainboard I hope you enjoy your visits here and make this place your modelling home. I have used L girder benchwork on my layout and i have found it provides a very solid base and as mentioned before allows many modelling options and makes it easier for building grades etc. Here are a couple of pictures of my benchwork Once again welcome to trainboard and good luck with your future layout. Oh once you have a desigh drawn up you can post it in "The layout Design Forum" where some of our own experts can give you advice
While I would generally agree that L girder benchwork is an excellent way to construct a base for your layout I would caution you that you will need to plan on staying where you are for a long time. This is because l girders do not lend themselves all that well to constructing a layout that you may want to move with you should you move in the future. In my case I have modified the traditional L girder construction method somewhat. Rather than placing strigers across the L girders, I have constructed individual 'dominoes' or 'modules' that have been placed directly on the L girder. This form of construction permits the layout to be moved in the future. This is similar to what was proposed by Don Mitchell in his article in the2001 Model Railroad Planning, 10 design tips from an expert(page 44 - 46).
Don't get a hung up on one certain type of benchwork. L-Girder is one of the best types for a NON-movable benchwork. As GRANTHA says don't plan on moving the benchwork once you have it in place. I have several types of benchwork on my layout, L-girder, grid type, and one place where I used steel U-channel to run from a wall to a support post for the upstairs floor. This is about a 6ft span with no legs under it. The wall supports one end and the steel post supports the other. Another note is to use DRYWALL SCREWS for putting the bench work together. Using a hammer to hammer nails into benchwork will knock things apart. DRYWALL SCREWS come in all sizes and can be coarse or fine thread. The coarse thread type will hold any wood together and not pull out.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by porkypine52: Another note is to use DRYWALL SCREWS for putting the bench work together. Using a hammer to hammer nails into benchwork will knock things apart. DRYWALL SCREWS come in all sizes and can be coarse or fine thread. The coarse thread type will hold any wood together and not pull out.<hr></blockquote> Great tip!! Drywall screws and a cordless drill ... a match made in heaven.
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by porkypine52: Don't get a hung up on one certain type of benchwork. L-Girder is one of the best types for a NON-movable benchwork. As GRANTHA says don't plan on moving the benchwork once you have it in place. I have several types of benchwork on my layout, L-girder, grid type, and one place where I used steel U-channel to run from a wall to a support post for the upstairs floor. This is about a 6ft span with no legs under it. The wall supports one end and the steel post supports the other. Another note is to use DRYWALL SCREWS for putting the bench work together. Using a hammer to hammer nails into benchwork will knock things apart. DRYWALL SCREWS come in all sizes and can be coarse or fine thread. The coarse thread type will hold any wood together and not pull out.<hr></blockquote>
Due to my semi-nomadic nature, I've taken to building my layout sections in open-grid fashion, and until recently I used plywood tops. Lately I've gone to 2" foam tops for some sections. The open-grid modules have withstood moves from Paris, TX to Grand Junction, CO with no ill effects.
