Beginner ????

it sounds like your temps are off. you should be 200 at nozzle and the bed temp around 50 for pla this all varies on the filament used. as far as bed springs you may have to adjust things till you get the bed under tension (very important , then you may have to adjust the y axis stop a bit to. like i said its take some time to get everything just right . google setting up the ender 3 and look at many many videos you will get it right . STAY away from that cheap filament for sure . hatch box is very good and i like the grey much better. ive used probably 15 spools to date.
# 4 nozzles is what i use most all the time. i didnt read weather you bought filament for it as well. if not order you a spool of hatchbox grey.and toss that cheap crap in the trash or save it till you get used to how it all works. dont get frustrated ( i do that a lot )just keep trying different setups temps ect oh and get some hair spray for the bed AQUA NET is the best......(helps stick the parts to the bed while printing..)

 

Creality has two versions (at least for windows) on their website, so it might be worth trying one that you don't have:
https://www.creality.com/pages/down...831-42a7-9d22-0639b58cc3e7.nav_link_store_1.1

There are also other slicing software packages available, many free, so you might want to try one of them if you can't get Cura installed:
https://all3dp.com/1/best-3d-slicer-software-3d-printer/

Those settings are in the slicing software. They get encoded in the Gcode file when it is generated. I don't know if there is anyway to override those settings from the printer, though they could be adjusted in the Gcode file using a text editor.

What gcode file are you trying to print?

 

thanks for all the info. I was trying to print a "Cat" file that came on the machine/card.

If I ever get this thing going; still waiting on good filament to show, how would you go about printing something like this? base is 18X10X4 and the barrel is 35 mms high all measurements are in mm.

 

me i would lay it on its side (no supports ). , but you could print it straight up an use supports . circle things are not as strong in the straight up position as they would be laying down on there side . much practice an you will figger it all out . best to start with smaller prints then as you get better go for bigger more complicated stuff. like print a few benchies ( https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=benchy&page=1&type=things&sort=relevant )them move on to something else and get a good feel for how its working....... Vist tinker cad as well . there you can take apart stuff and rearrange them for different builds (like buildings ) Building print much better if you take them apart and print one wall at a time (great for details to show ) Tinker cad you will have to sign up for but its free... Fusion 360 is better if you can figger that out, me i gave up (too complicated for my pea brain ) of coarse i dont have much of an edumacation at all .

 

seems like Openscad has evolved into more complicated use also. I don't remember having to do so really complicated things to derive what I did there.

I wasn't gonna attempt this any way soon. It's just a idea I had in the back of my head for a while now and wanted' to get re-familiar with Openscad and see what it looked like "on paper".

edit: I don't have a whole lot of that edumacation either!

 

I'm building a complete steam locomotive in OpenSCAD, just keep adding cubes and cylinders until it looks like a locomotive...

Seriously, documenting my progress here: https://glenn.pulpitrock.net/blog/ A lot of it is just "cubes and cylinders", some of it (bell and hangar) is horridly complex. Stopped considering Fusion 360 when I read the license terms; I have no commercial aspirations, just don't like being told I can't without exchanging money... even though it would probably be far easier to use.

 

I love Fusion 360 and how fast and relatively easy it is to use. Any time I get stumped thirty minutes searching and watching a YouTube gets me going again. I don't have a problem with the license agreement considering Fusion 360 is a product that people have put their time, money and energy into and it is their livelihood. Actually surprise that they offer it free in any shape or form. I haven't checked it out but I think as long as you don't sell more than $1000 a year you haven't broken the license agreement, but not positive on that.

If I was designing commercially $500 a year would still be darn cheap to use it and at this point I'm so hooked I might even pay it myself for the level I use it at but could probably pretty easily make that back if I wanted to. Doesn't cost you a cent to try it and decide at any point not to use it. Can't see where that isn't a good deal.

I also don't have a problem with anyone using anything they want. I've used the older free SketchUp and still do for some things but for me Fusion is just offers so much more that what I've seen out there that you can use for free.

Sumner

 

yep, adding is easy. Try subtracting or eliminating part of a complex shape.
You have to "modulize" it, or at least that all I could do.
when you use the "difference" you can only have 1 addition(build), everything after that removes, so you can't build a Cube and a cylinder then clean it up.
Also, trying to Rotate_extrude a ring with a translate above the x-y axis and can't get it to move beyond about 3 or 4 on the z axis.

 

Actually, you can difference from a combined set of objects:

Code:

difference() {
    union() {
        cube([...]);
        cylinder(...);
    }
    cube([...]);
}

Trying to grok the rotate_extrude thing... I use it for most of the locomotive centerline decorations, domes, smokestack, etc. Pretty straightforward once you get past the implicit x rotation that stands up the polygon. Well, for me, anyway; rotate() translate() and scale() work just like the primitives we learned in computer graphics oh-so-long ago...

 

If you say so. Maybe that's my problem...haven't had any computer graphics.
I was visiting the "Tutorial" off and on during this and I could never find any simple answer.
I finally caved in and started to LEARN TO modulize stuff by using variables...which I really didn't want to do.
I like to comment my work, so I remember what what means and it's easier for ME to change things up without too much ado.

can you see if this will translate up to z30 for you?
I can't get it to move beyond 3 or 4 on the z axis.

rotate_extrude(angle=360){
translate([9,0,30])
circle(d=2);}

 

Ah, it's because the object you're translating is a 2D object, only x and y dimensions. translates in the Z axis on 2D shapes are ignored. It's a bit confusing, as OpenSCAD renders 2D objects with a Z dimension of 1, so they look 3D. Reference:

https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/2D_to_3D_Extrusion, scroll down to rotate_extrude.

I put in a translate([0,0,30]) ahead of the rotate_extrude, and it put the 3D shape right up there. Sometimes, instead of combining axes in a single translate, I'll put them in separate ones to keep from confusing myself...

 

I had it before also, Never did see it, maybe I just missed it inside the other parts and not visible, or ....? I fiddled with the xy and z numbers trying to find it to no avail.

just about clear as mud. seems the whole idea of extrusion is to make a 2D a 3D.
peculiar it did a square(4)....I think, my memory fails me now.

About the subject: I did make some progress today, I got the new filament, cleaned the nozzle, feeder hose and at least got it to extrude. Just wasn't sticking.
Oh well, tackle that tomorrow. Guess I need to get some AquaNet!

EDIT: I re-read the post. I had missed an important part.
Thanks for your input. appreciate it.

 

Are you printing a 'skirt' around the object? If so how about a picture of it. I'll use the bed level file any time I mess with the hot-end at all where you use the paper under the 4 corners and the middle of the bed, then the four corners again.

I have the hot-end and build plate at printing temperature when doing the leveling. I want the paper to just drag under the hot-end. There should be some friction. After a while you know what feels right. Then while the first skirt is printing on the first print after leveling I'll tweak the springs as I see the skirt printed. From there things should be good for that print and the following ones until you mess with the hot-end arm and maybe tweak things out of adjustment a bit. While the skirt is printing if the filament is squished and barely visible or not visible the head is too close and can clog as the filament can't come out. Too far and it will be a string on top of the table and not attached.

To level I use a g code that I'm not sure is out there anymore. Got it from the guy's videos that I keep posting. I might be able to email if you don't find anything the same. Each time you push the printer's control knob it goes to a different corner. Then the center. Then to each corner for a final test.

I have my computer connected with a USB cable and send print files to it using Cura through the cable. I keep a SD card in the printer with the level file on it and call it up when needed from the printer's control panel. I'd make sure for a while you are using a skirt to see the build plate adhesion before the print starts. About the only time I don't use it is if I'm printing an object on a 'raft'. I can see if things are ok when the raft is being formed.

Sumner

 

I have never used anything to make the print stick better. I do make sure that it is level and at the proper distance from the printhead as the print starts.

Sumner

 

In your code, the order of the operations is, 1) make a circle, 2) translate it to [9,0,30], and 3) rotate_extrude it 360 degrees to make the 3d object. When the translate is done, the circle is still 2D...

When you write a statement with multiple operations, the order they're applied starts at the semicolon and works it's way to the left. A lot like nested procedure calls.

About the square, OpenSCAD operators that make circles, cylinders, and other round objects default to a number of faces = 4. You can change that by putting this ahead of the rest of the code:

$fn=90;

That'll do the circle with 90 line segments, looks more like a circle.

 

I do appreciate all of your knowledge,time, and patience.

I did have the translate before the rotate_extrude originally. Maybe I just missed it inside the object or something????
Fiddled with the x,y, and z numbers trying to "find" it several times. Never showed up....as far as I could tell.
Started a "new" project with that alone, and that's where that ended.

Again, thanks for your time and effort.

EDIT; I just put this in,
translate([0,0,30])
rotate_extrude(angle=360){
circle(d=2);}
and the ring is still on x, y axis.
went back again and NO ring.

still get nothing.

 

I'll go thru the process AGAIN tomorrow.
I "auto home" my printer. Is that the right first step?
move the head over the four support bolts
then I do the four corners(adjustment bolts), getting the paper to drag a bit, test the center, then test four corners again.
I've done this probably 20 times.
Do it again tomorrow and see what happens.
I washed the plate until water sheets up on it real even and then not touched it.

I've looked for that leveling software, gcode, but I think all I've found is for use on the sensing device someone sells.

 

Here is the video again....



I see he has a new link to new g-codes. I have the original ones he posted a link to 3 years or so ago. If the ones that are there now don't work PM me and I'll send you the ones I have.

I do a thing or two different than what he does on the first test using the paper under the print head.

1. I cut some regular printer paper into strips that are about 2" x 11" ( cut the paper into 4 strips lengthwise). As the head moves I move the strip and keep it under the head so that when it lowers it lowers onto the paper. If it is to tight turn the adjusting knob until the paper just starts to move. Too loose go the other way. This way you don't have to try and slide the paper under after the head goes down. If you do it that way you have to adjust until the paper can get under the head and then go back the other way, not a good way to do a fine adjustment on a screw type device.

2. I pay more attention to how the paper drags when the head is in the center for most items as they aren't printing at the extreme edges.

3. I've only used that code that prints all the squares a couple times. I print almost everything with the skirt and watch the skirt being laid down and adjust as it moves past a corner. If the bed is close you shouldn't need to turn the knob very much at all for this final adjustment. Since the skirt is close to all the edges of the print you are dialing it in for the print and not the whole build plate.

4. I have the magnetic bed and love it. I never remove it like he keeps doing for the sake of his videos. I'll peel a corner back until I get to the edge of the print then usually I can use my finger or print removal tool to remove the print and then let the magnetic bed back down so I haven't affected it or the build plate.

Don't be pressing hard on the build plate against the springs or moving it back and forth by hand. Don't push the arm with the print-head on it up and down manually. All of this is operating on tight clearances. Use the controls with the panel or with Cura to move the build plate and head.

5. Level is important but the distance between the bed and the head for the first layers that effect adhesion is just as important. As I mentioned before I use nothing to promote adhesion and have no problems with bed adhesion.

6. The above can sound like a pain in the a** but it goes quick. If I deal with a clog or do take the magnetic bed off or do anything that I feel might upset the level and/or distance I take a minute and run the level test with the strip of paper and then I watching the skirt on the next print carefully. So not a big deal to deal with this. Subsequent prints I'll keep an eye on the skirt and the first couple minutes of the print. If a clog happens it is usually then.

7. If I can I break most of my designs in pieces like Sid mentioned for quality and if there is a clog I'm not into a print for 5 hours and then loose it from a clog.

I'd say to others that if you buy an Ender and follow the guy above's video on setup ( HERE ) and then what I listed above you should be setup and printing within a couple hours of unpacking the printer. Do the setup right from the beginning. I had good results with my first Ender but a year into it set it up like in the video and things got a lot better. I used his setup with the second Ender when I bought it and it has worked great from the first print.

Sumner

 

I'd say I watched the video on day one and did what he said except I didn't a leveling file so I used the home position of the z axis.
I'd also say throw away the filament you get with the machine before you do anything else.
I just cut my paper in half lengthwise, I guess that's where I went wrong.
I'd also say if you get one, the check see if the base pad heater wiring support is on top of the spring, if it is, put the spring on TOP of the wire support. That will give you the same travel as the other springs minus a millimeter or three

.Anybody want to buy a Ender V.2 cheap?
can't install Cura. either version.
can't download a leveling file, I've undone every setting I can find on "blocking", but I still get a "turn off adblockers to download". In my virus protection and browser.