Backdrop Construction Question

I've finally started construction of my layout, benchwork is almost complete. I got hold of a copy of Linn Wescott's benchwork book, and have built a 10x10 L-girder corner unit.


If it matters, the sub-roadbed will be cookie-cutter/ribbon, so most of the plywood will end up being cut away. I only started with full coverage because my track plan is, shall we say, a little less than firm at this point.
I'm modelling the B&M Fitchburg division, but the track plan is largely based on the Heart of Georgia layout.


As good as Wescott's book is, his treatment of backdrop construction is pretty thin.
From the research I've done, most everyone seems to mount 1/8" Masonite to the back walls. I'd like to avoid that since the walls are concrete and fairly uneven - drilling would be a pain.


Joe Fugate shows a method using vinyl flooring remnants that looked intriguing. The flooring is bonded to a 1x2 frame which is then attached directly to the benchwork. However, I wonder how much the material will sag over time - in his video, the vinyl already looks like it's starting to sag after getting a base coat of blue. That would drive me nuts.


I'm also toying with the idea of using materials such as fanfold foam, foam-core, or coroplast. I have a fairly large supply of fanfold foam sitting around from my R/C airplane scratch building days.


Does anyone have any opinions/advice/tips/insight into backdrop construction?


Thanks!

 

I would think the trick to the vinyl flooring would be to use a full frame and make sure it's well bonded before mounting it. Or, you could use foamcore or something similar to mount the vinyl to to prevent sagging.

Also, as for masonite, I think mounting it directly to the wall is only one of many options. I think it might make more sense to create a frame out of 1x2s and mount it to that.

 

You could also use sheets of styrene "welded" to a wooden framework.
Easy to bend (and fit in your car).
David Popp details how he built both against-the-wall and freestanding sections in his book Building a Model Railroad Step-by-Step (Kalmbach, 2007).
A good book with lots of tips, and a second edition just came out with more stuff in it.

 

I use the reverse side of vinyl flooring. It is mounted with construction adhesive either to thin aluminum strapping or directly to walls or benchwork where they are present. The straps are easy to curve into concave or around convex corners with very tight radii and it takes and hold complex shapes well. This approach significantly reduced my need for framing.

5 years in and no sign of sagging anywhere and I have a lot of backdrop material over 2 decks.

The material paints great and you can get very very long lengths of material for low price in the off cuts of flooring stores. I think my longest uninterrupted length is 35'! It certainly is nice not to have to worry about hiding joins.

A concern was raised a while ago on another forum about this material being flammable (especially when it is mounted vertically) and giving off poisonous gasses if it were set on fire. The C&W is in a garage so I am less worried then if it were in the house. However I needed to raise it as concern should you go this route. Not sure styrene would be much better but I don't have any experience with this material for backdrops.

This shot shows left-to-right a free-standing section of backdrop connected to a coved corner and then to the wall.


I hope that was helpful.

md