So I need some new Atlas switches in the near future. I haven't bought any in 15-20 years if not more. What is the difference in the Standard and the #6 Code 80 variety? These are manual switches. It's been so long, and is $13.99 for the Atlas 2702 2703 #6 or $15.99 Atlas 2706 or 2707 for the Standard a bad price for each? They appear to NOT be on sale. But my local hobby shop wants I think like $28.99 each ( I could be wrong about this price ), I think, and they are old if not mistaken. That is packaging looks old, me thinks I have a 2 x 4 layout with another 2 x 4 to put up an L shape. I own so much Atlas track I can't afford to switch to Kato, as I don't use my layout often, although it is always up and only a few feet away from me. Although the reason for the new switches is I am thinking about redoing my basic frame work in the Spring and maybe, just maybe actually try to do basic wiring ( very basic ), and landscaping, maybe. You can see it on my YT channel in the signature. It's always changing
Yowch! At your LHS' prices, you might as well go Unitrack! On the other hand, they'd prolly charge more for it... But sorry, I can't help with your question. One of the other nice features of Unitrack (though expensive) is the plug & play wiring.
I think the Standard Switch can replace a radius piece of track, while the #6 diverges at an angle like the prototype does. The # in a #4 or #6 refers to the angle of the frog. I'm assuming the Standard switch lacks this number because it is actually a radius, not an angle. It is probably close to the 'tightness' of a #4 though.
Yeah like I said, I would actually have to verify the prices to be honest. I am going their next week anyway. I'll double check. Good thing about them is they have been around for like 20-30 years, moved locations several times, but they buy out people, and have some rally good prices on some things and really old jewels you can find sometimes. Plus I have had them match internet prices too before. Not always, but they are usually pretty good about it.
I am pretty sure I have the Standard since they are so old. I might even have a left over package in the attic I'll look! BTW, thanks for the explanation, great info to know. Why would you want the #6 or #4, etc...?
The diverging route in an Atlas standard switch is the same as a 19" radius piece of sectional track. You can place the curved route directly into a 19" radius curve. Atlas supplies a piece of 19" radius track in the standard switches to return the divergence to two parallel tracks. The frog angle in a standard switch isn't really a #4, it is quite a bit less acute. The frog angles between a standard switch and a # 6 really aren't that much different although a #6 still looks better in a crossover. 13 bucks doesn't seem too unreasonable these days. Actually, the 2702 and 2703 are the standard switches and 2706 and 2707 are the # 6 switches. $28.99, is nuts, if that's what that place wants. Also, inspect the standard switches to see if they are US-made or Chinese. The USA switches are always OK. There is a black rectangle near the bottom front of the package with "Made In USA" in white lettering. There were some problems with some of the Chinese-made versions in that the point rails were incorrectly made and were too thick and messed up the gauge in the point area. Although it's fixable, it is way more work than it's worth. Just exchange them. The Chinese-made packages have "Made in China" on the back of the package. The USA-made packages say "N Scale Switch" on the front and the Chinese-made switches say "N Code 80 Switch". The former go quite a few years back and the latter are more current. Doug
$28.99 for a standard Atlas turnout? YIKES!! I'm sitting on gold mine here. PLEASE don't get into the idea that you have to use a small turnout frog number EVERYWHERE. If you can help it, don't use a #4 turnout anywhere. Just too sharp for a good smooth running layout. Use at least a #6 and bigger frog number turnout and make the minimum curve radius as big as you can. Especially if you are planning to run 6 axle diesels or BIG STEAM POWER. On the INDIANA RAILWAY #7 turnouts in the yards, some sidings, #10 out on the MAIN. 15" minimum radius curves [most curves will be 20" or better]. Also don't get into the idea of substituting a turnout for a curve. If you are looking at KATO track work, OK, but not for me. Another name for it is SECTIONAL TRACK. NOPE too many joints, and I like to design a track plan from scratch, not be limited to only using curves that are available. DON'T fudge on any track work, make it the best laid, smoothest possible, from the git-go and NEVER have to worry about sub-standard performance later.
I am speaking N. The diverging route in the Atlas HO standard switches is the same as an 18" radius piece of sectional track with the short supplied 18" radius piece of track added to the diverging route. This also illustrates that the N scale standard switch is NOT a #4 switch but larger. The diverging route is an inch bigger radius than the HO version. There's a reason Atlas doesn't call the N scale standard switches "#4". Doug
As I said, the Atlas N scale standard switch is NOT a #4 switch. It is a larger frog switch, closer to a #5 or #5 1/2. So, they are not that sharp. And, there is nothing wrong with using sectional track if your layout calls for a radius that matches. My current layout actually does have 19" radius curves on the main and I just used Atlas 19" radius sectional track for them instead of laying flex track, which I have done many times in my over 55 years years of N scale and there are some places I did use flex. It's just a lot easier to use sectional if the curve calls for a consistent radius. The joints have never been a problem as long as you make sure they are smooth. N scalers need to learn that the Atlas standard switches have never been #4 switches and the other manufacturers, in the early days, had switches with much sharper frog angles, some with the equivalent of 7" radius track through the frogs. I don't know Kato unitrack but it appears the frog angles in the typically used switches are larger than a #4, too. I could be wrong. Doug
N scale Kato Unitrack has #6 switches with 28R 15 degree diverging routes, #4 switches with 19R 15 degree diverging routes, and now has (Unitram Street Track) doubletrack switches with 7R 45 degree diverging routes (no frog # given). The #6's are bullet-proof, whereas the #4's can be troublesome, sometimes needing a notch filed in the rail to receive the tip of the diverging point. I have no experience with the Unitram switches. The Unitrack double crossover uses #6 switches, and the single crossover has improved #4's that are, by all reports, reliable OOTB.
