C-WW I am looking for info on how best to apply decals on a newly painted surface. I've read someplace that its best to have a gloss finish where the decal will be placed, an use Polly Set and then spray with DullCoat when everything is dry. Is this correct? Secondly, what about decaling new, undecorated plastic? Do you still need an undercoat of clear gloss? Thanks Rich [ March 28, 2006, 03:33 PM: Message edited by: watash ]
Rich: <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>I am looking for info on how best to apply decals on a newly painted surface.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> It is best to start with a glossy finish, or at least a semi-gloss finish. Trying to decal over a flat finish will produce unfavorable results. (You will find it hard to move the decals around when applying them and it is hard to get them to set properly (you will see some clouding under the decal). To start applying the decals, I take a brush and brush a little water on the surface of the model in the area where the decals are to be applied. This will allow you to be able to move the decals around and get them just right. Once you have them applied and in position, take the edge of a paper towel and carefully use it to soak up any excess water. With that done, you can carefully brush on the decal setting solution. The type you use is up to you, though I prefer to use Walthers Solvaset, as it seems to do the best job on a wide number of different decal brands. Though at times you will find using the setting solution from the specific decal manufacturer will give you best results. This is particularly true with Champ and Accu-Cal decals. After brushing on a coat of setting solution, let it set till its nearly dry. This will soften the decals and you want to be very careful when working with the decal after the solution is applied. As the solution dries it will start setting the decals, though you will see air pockets in places, especially around protruding details. I use a sharp X-acto #11 blade to carefully poke holes into any air pockets. Then apply another coat of setting solution, being careful not to bear down with the brush too hard or you can damage the softened decals. You will have to repeat this process until you get all of the air pockets out and you are satified with how the decal looks. This can be a simple or lengthy process depending on the size of the decal, number of protruding details, paint finish, etc. The biggest thing is patience... <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>and then spray with DullCoat when everything is dry. Is this correct?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Once you have the decals set and everything has dried you will definitely want to spray the entire model with a clear finish. You can use a gloss, semi-gloss or flat finish depending on your preference. I like to use the same brand clear coatings as the paint I used if at all possible, as this prevents any chances for the clear coat to attack the paint. (After 20 years of custom painting I can honestly say I learned that one the hard way... ) This clear coat will help to hide the decal edges and it will protect them from damage. <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Secondly, what about decaling new, undecorated plastic? Do you still need an undercoat of clear gloss? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> No matter what, NEVER try to decal over bare plastic. No matter how good it looks while you are decaling, once it dries the decals will be cloudy. Regardless of the color plastic, I recommend painting the plastic with whatever color you want, rather than using a clear finish. Most of the plastics have a "plastic look" to them that the clear finish just won't eliminate. I hope this answers your questions. Please feel free to ask more if you need additional help. Chris Toth [ 24 February 2001: Message edited by: NSDASH9 ]
Hello Chris and thanks for your information, you've given me the specific's I was looking for. I've done a considerable amount of weathering, using chalks, on both O and HO scale. I've always use paper stock and cut-out road names/numbers then dusted chalk over this templet in the appropriate location on the car or loco. I like this because I can control the weathered look I want and if I mess it up, it all washes off an I can start again. If I like the looks then I set it with DullCoat. I'm going to have some decals made and attempt your detailed process. It is much less tedious that cutting a templet. My only question is, how do I make a crisp, new decal look faded? Can these be Puter generated to have a weathered look? Thanks Rich
Hi Rich: <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>I'm going to have some decals made and attempt your detailed process. It is much less tedious that cutting a templet. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I can certainly understand that. If you are looking for someone to do your decals, I can recommend Gary Collins of GMCRail. I have recently had several custom sets made and Gary does a great job, is quick and has very reasonable prices. <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>My only question is, how do I make a crisp, new decal look faded? Can these be Puter generated to have a weathered look?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Interesting question. I guess it would depend on the color of the decal. If you are using a specific color and want it to look different when faded or weathered you could have the decals made in the weathered shade you are seeking. Then after applying the decals you could further weather the model to blend the faded decals in with the rest of the model. Now with white decals its kind of hard to print them any lighter... To achieve a faded look with white, I use various mixtures of sprayed on weathering to achieve the look I want. Use highly thinned washes of light weathering colors and this usually does a good job. You want to get a good uniform weathered wash over the decals, as you don't want to see "splattered" weathering colors that are apparent if the finish isn't uniform. Bottom line, when it comes to weathering, you have to do a lot of experimenting to get the exact results that you seek. Chris Toth
Nice thread. I use a Q-tip wet and then squeeze out the excess water on a paper towel. Start at the center of decal and roll it in one direction, and repeat for other direction. Picks up the water and lays the decal down. Didn't believe it till tried it. Doesn't tend to move the decal. Micro-Sol seems a little more forgiving then Diosol. I dip the brush in the Micro sol and then in water to dilute it a bit. Takes 2 applications, but doesn't havethe tendancy to "eat" decals this way. Steve Lynch
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Micro-Sol seems a little more forgiving then Diosol. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Not to get too picky here, but I believe you meant to say Micro-Set. Diosol is the Floquil name for their solvent based paint thinner. Chris Toth [ 25 February 2001: Message edited by: NSDASH9 ]
I've had a lot of success using dry transfer alphabet sheets for making custom or one-off decals. I've applied them directly to the model, but for more control, apply to blank decal sheet and then apply to the model using conventional methods. They react to decal setting fluids just like ordinary decals. To tone down new looking decals, dust on appropriate colored chalk dust.
Hello Graham and others, thanks for all the tips, guys. Ok, let me see If I understand, first I apply a gloss/semi-gloss coat to the surface. Then place the decal with a solution following the above instructions and let dry. Then, I can weather the entire body, including the decal, and then set the whole business with DullCoat! Or, do I weather the body first and then decal, then weather the decal....jeeze, I'm making a federal case of this and I apologize. I've been breathing to much chalk dust! Rich
Hopefully this reply will make it through, somehow my first post came up missing . Its usually best to weather the car after you decal it. Although you can get some interesting effects by decaling a weathered car. Sort of like a prototype renumbering or relettering . Hey you got to watch that white 'chalk' dust. It can make you do some strange things ....Mike
I'm preticularly fond of Champ decals and their decel set. It works well on their decals along with Microscale. And for the fact of decaling a flat (not shiny surface) the Champ decal set works well I can decal about 12 or 15 loco's and cars in one day and the very next day (24 hours later). Their ready for the overcoat (dullcoat or whatever you prefer). And I get professional results everytime. I say the 24 hour time period for drying, its best to let them air dry after being decaled for 24 hour to asure that they are dry and ready for the overcoat. After I have painted a model and air dried it with a hair dryer and the paint can be handled I then get the desired decals that I need for that model. I put a drop of water on the location I want the decal so I can possion it to the exact spot the proto-types would have been. I slide the decal from its backing paper onto the model and move it to possion it as needed and then take a lintless cloth to absorb all the excess water possible. Let it set for 30 seconds and then apply the decal set and let that soften the decal and wait till its almost dry and look for imperfections to take care of and if any the first time, i'll use a fine needle to poke a small hole to get rid of that "milky look" under the the decal. And i'll poke a small hole to pass and air bubble to make the decal "adhere" in that spot of the decal where the air bubble was. Once I get all the imperfections out and I can see no other problems i'll give the decal once last coat of decal set to insure it. If any improfections are vissible to the eye you can repeat those steps as much as you need to to make it "adhere" to the model. I learned all this from my 11 years of just painting and decaling professionally. It started as "trial and error" and now i'm acheiving professional results in less time and a bigger quantity done....
