Anyone have a layout crossing in front of a basement window?

I am limiting my layout considerations to a 7'x 5' area in a spare room in my basement. The room is bigger, it is 12'6" x 5'6" unfinished, but when done, I will just consider it 12'x5'.

The reason I am limiting the space is two fold. I want a little workshop area on the one side of the room. Also, there is a glass block window with a small vent on it between the two areas. I am concerne about putting somethin in front of it in the event I need to access it.

I intend to run a shelf type layout. Do you think I could do this in the entire room and have the workshop area and go in front of the window?

I am curious as to how others have approached any similar issues.

My one thought about the window issue is to have a hinged or lift out portion of the layout right there.

Any suggestions? Should I limit myself to the 7'x5' spot?

 

I'd go with a lift-out, but use materials that won't warp. Power could be routed through springy contacts on the ends of the framework or plug together contacts under the layout. I'd stay away from a hinged setup only because I would worry about scenery falling off or sliding around. Also, with a lift-out section, the part lines could be irregular and easier to disguise.

 

I have ran shelf layouts pass windows with no ill effects and that's exactly what I would do in your case.Now since I use a student desk as a work desk I would have the desk by the window and the layout to pass in front of the desk..

BTW..As I have mention before I perfer natural light over artificial light and that's why I would place my work desk at the window.

 

I know I am a little while off on the benchwork and all, but I do have a couple questions.

Should I build the bench work for everything else and the build this section last? I am thinking of putting this section in like a modular setup, but on wheels and barrel locks to keep it secure.

Hypothetically, if I build the whole length of the room and on the two side walls (I probably will, just want to make sure I can get a work bench in there too), I want to have some height to the layout. Should I sacrafice the one side wall and build a helix (which by the way, is beyond my skills at present) to add a second deck, or just build an incline that goes up 4" to 5" to take advantage of space and allow more trackage and scenery?

I am considering code 55 track and 13" radius curves, so I should be able to run a lot of the articulated engines, right?

 

Make your layout high enough to allow the work bench to fit under it. Something like 4 feet off the floor or so. Make the section where the work bench is narrow enough to allow space to work and still have the layout go over the work bench . Since you are in "N" the part of the layout over the work bench could be only six inches deep with several tracks on it. Just an Idea.

 

That makes sense. And I could put it on locking wheels so I can move it when I need to.




I was considering a "double folded" dog bone as my main line. I think that is the best way to describe it.

Take a dog bone lay out and fold it. So the original ends are together. Now, make the folded section (middle of the original section) a mirror image of the two end sections that are now together.

Two tracks on the top, two on the bottom. A nice long mainline run. 13" radius curves, I am hoping I can run some nice locos on them.

Then I have my industries and my yard/engine facility to operate in.

 

I will have a basement window in the picture. If I were to have to access the window quickly it would have to be a fire situation, and I would have no qualms about stepping on the layout on the way to the window.

 

This is a glass block window with a vent correct? You wouldn't use it as an emergency exit. Can the vent be manipulated with some type of control arm (stick)? Can you just narrow the shelf under the window so that you can get close enough to reach the vent? Use a step stool? They also make ladders that extend over layouts. Upstate Gator

 

When I built across a 3'-6" wide window on an older layout, I used a 3/4" sheet of good plywood. I simply fastened it to benchwork on either side of the window with four screws, one in each corner. For the rails, I just made sure I could slide rail joiners back enough so that when I undid the screws, I could lift out the section. I did not rely on the joiners to conduct electricity. I used block quick-connects for the wiring. It may have taken five minutes to remove it, and about the same to put it back. By screwing it to the benchwork, I eliminated having to build a rolling table, and all alignment problems. Removing the four screws, hidden under removable buildings, was probably the quickest part.

 

13" is a little tight, equivalent to 24" in HO. You'll get most big equipment around, but there'll be a lot of overhang.

 

I guess I don't see what the problem is. If it is one of those glass block windows with the vent, build around or across it. Make sure you have a way to access the vent and you are on your way. Watch the width of your bench work in the window area and figure in a lift out section if you want.

Don't limit the size of any curve. Don't say "all curves will be 13" radius" that idea won't fly. Use as big a radius as possible, don't get hung up about the minimum radius junk! Some curves might be 15" radius, some curves might be 21" radius and some curves might be 27" radius, make the curves fit the track work so that the railroad look like it came after the scenery. Bigger too big than too sharp.

The same goes for turnouts, throw #4's back in the discount bin and stay away from them. Use as big as a frog number as you can. Don't even use low numbered frog turnouts in the yard, nice big turnouts to handle nice big cars and engines.

Make your trackwork TOP LINE for the beginning and you will have a good running railroad. Don't skimp in the beginning 'cause you will pay for it later!

 

I just purchased and started reading the new Kalmbach/Model Railroader book Painting backdrops for Your Model Railroad. There is at least one photo spread showing how one modeler built across both a full size and small basement window. The full size window is covered by a removable sheet of Masonite while the smaller window just has narrow vertical blinds with the sky color painted right on them. The large opening has the full backdrop painted right on it and you can hardly see where the gaps are. By the way, this is an excellent book and I highly recommend it for anyone about to do their backdrops. Jamie

 

I thought 13" radius curves were really good for running just about anything in N Scale?

My layout is going to be in the transition era and being a fictional town off of the Pennsylvania RR Main Line mainly dealing in the coal mining industry and a few other little industries. So, I will not be running the auto cars or anything long like that.

This layout will be against the wall and I do not want to go over 30" deep due to reach constraints.


Oh, another question for anyone who can answer it. What is the correct height for a tunnel that I should shoot for? And if the layout is agoing to be against a wall, should I not have tunnels?

 

For "just about anything," 16" is more like it.

Tunnels... this is the transition era, probably no excess height equipment... allow 16 scale feet for engines and cars, add a couple... 18' in N is 1.35". Note that that's from the railhead, not the roadbed.

 

That doesn't seem too bad.

If I want to put the mainline in as a folded dogbone (or is this too much?), I want part of it to go under the back section of the layout. To illustrate, if the layout is 20" deep at most points, I want the back 6" to 8" to be higher than the front of the layout. So, if part of the mainline is going to go under the higher part, what is the best way to access it, if I need to?

 

The upper deck on my layout is actually crossing two basement windows. I have installed a masonite backdrop in front of the windows, hiding the window openings. The backdrop section in front of the openings is removable and held in place with magnetic latches.

This is the 7-feet view, you can see the cut lines right behind the reefers on the upper deck...:


To be able to remove the backdrop sections the benchwork is shallower at the back, allowing for enough "wiggle-room" to lift the backdrop section up and over the benchwork. There is even a handle screwed into the backdrop panel, but it is invisible behind the benchwork.

This is a closeup, you can see the gap between benchwork and backdrop right behind the train. The gap is virtually impossible to see from normal viewing heights: I held the camera close to the ceiling for this shot:



I have this setup for 8 years and did not need to remove the backdrop more than once or twice, so no big issue if it is a little cumbersome. Once the backdrop is removed the layout itself is still right across the window, but I have enough room to reach over to the windows to open them or to do maintenance on them.

I hope this helps
Dirk

 

Nice shots!

I do want to add "height" to the layout. It is going to be L-shaped, 5' x 7', and against a wall. The window I have in question will be just above the top the the "L" if I stop at 7'. I could continue past the window and have another 5' on the 7' leg and have a 5' x 12' layout.

So, for either layout, how much height would be "smart" to add? A standard locomotive (diesel or steam) should be able to handle a 1% or 2% grade no problem. What about 4%? What will that do to one individual loco over time? Or do you use two on that grade? I am still having trouble on this concept. I heard using two locos on the same "block" is not good. Am I wrong?

 

The issue with grades is mainly how much they reduce pulling power. It doesn't damage the locomotive. In general, double-heading, even without perfect speed matching, is not harmful, either.

 

So after further thinking, I can fit in a nice layout in a 5' x 7' space, using foam/insulation board to raise/lower height to appropriate levels.

However, (such a dangerous word) after even further thinking, I just might go from the current 7' length to the 12.5' available to me. I can always put the work bench opposite of the layout on the open wall. So now the potential layout dimensions will be 5.5' x 12.5' x 5.5'. Kind of like a stretched up "C".

Is it dangerous to have high expectations like this? Should I go 5.5' x 7' and expand later? Or should I build it and tinker with it until I am happy.

The problem I am having (and please let me know if this is common) is when I design my layout on RTS, it seems like it is cramped in and I am putting in too much in the space I have. Should I design bare minimum and add later when the "minimum" is built?

Thanks again for the help. :tb-sad: