AnyCubic Wash & Cure Machine 2.0

Sumner Feb 18, 2021

  1. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

    Have any of you bought version 1.0 or the newer 2.0 AnyCubic Wash & Cure machine?

    I've put off buying a resin printer for 3 main reasons, smell (I can move it to the shop to handle that), smaller build plate than my Ender 3 Pro (I'll never get rid of the Ender and I'm sure it will remain my 'go to' printer) and lastly the big one. I just haven't wanted to deal with the cleaning and curing of the prints.

    I've printed hundreds of things with the Ender and just can't imagine having to deal with cleaning and curing everyone of those. But since I don't see myself ever being without a filament printer I can continue down that road with the majority of my prints which I've been quite satisfied with. Still I can see where I'd like to print some smaller items with higher detail at times.

    I've looked at this video a couple times....

    ... and if cleaning and curing can be handled with the Wash & Cure machine consistently as shown in the video I might be in to adding a resin printer to my life. Still not as simple as a filament print where I can take a part off the build plate and paint it but I can see myself going through this process for some prints.

    The original version 1.0 machine is about $100 now and the 2.0 is around $150. Not cheap but I could afford either and would probably go with the 2.0 after reading reviews.

    So have any of you gone down this route or considered it?

  2. Mr. Trainiac

    Mr. Trainiac TrainBoard Member

    I have seen a number of 3D printing videos, but most people use some kind of homemade contraption. I agree, the upfront costs for a resin printer are pretty high, even if you don't get this device, there are still other implements and tools to wash and cure parts.

    Most people seem to do their own washes in two or three containers or glass jars. The video you attached seems to make it a lot easier, but it still does not avoid the constant cleaning and filtering of alcohol. It seems to use a lot of isopropyl, it would be nice to see different sized or shorter containers. The amount in there seems a bit wasteful for the small superhero figure he was cleaning. Isopropyl alcohol eventually dilutes itself by absorbing water vapor from the air, so you may go through a lot of it if you print a lot. The amount of expensive consumables in resin printing may be a turn-off for some.

    I think the best feature of the machine is the UV turntable. Even and constant curing can help prevent warpage, but again, you can probably build your own system with household materials. For longer passenger cars, I would cure them vertically rather than sitting them flat, which may be difficult to balance on the turntable. It seems like the LEDs are not really directed at the bottom, so small prints will not receive the full power of all the lights.

    I think the device is good in concept, but it is another thing to find space for in your house. Resin printing seems to require a dedicated workspace and print room to avoid the smell. Personally, I barely have room for a printer, let alone a full system of machines.
  3. Chris Hall

    Chris Hall TrainBoard Member

    Although I don't have the Anycubic wash and cure, I do have the Elegoo Mercury plus (which pairs with the Mars series of printers), so I may be able to help out a little.

    I originally had a small Kickstarter resin printer that used a laser to cure each layer. It was slow, had a very small build area and was very prone to errors. I used all sorts of cleaning containers, ethanol, Isopropyl (when you can get it), water and a home made curing table. The results were quite often over cured prints, mess everywhere, containers of alcohol all over the place and the horrendous smell of resin, which gave me a stinking headache. But it proved a point to me, that a resin printer would be able to print the parts I wanted for my layout.

    I eventually invested in a Mars 2 pro and decided at the same time to get the Mercury plus as well, and I am really please with both. The Mercury plus takes the build plate directly from the Mars 2 so I can place my preliminary cleaning fluid container (ethyl alcohol) in the mercury, fit the build plate and hit clean. Once that cycle is complete, I fit a second container of Isopropyl that does the final clean. After that its just a case of letting the print dry for a minute or so, remove from the build plate then place back in the machine for the cure process. The mercury also comes with a basket (bit like something for a deep fat fryer) that you can place odd parts in.

    One thing I have started to do is fully drain the print between the first and second wash by "hanging" the build plate on the top of the wash container - bit of an oversite I think from Elegoo - there is no way to drain the print post wash, and quite often there is a lot of fluid if your print is hollow. Also by using the Ethanol to carry out the first "dirty" wash is far cheaper than using just Isopropyl.

    The whole process from printing to cleaning I now do in my living room. The smell from the resin is filtered out by the Mars 2 pro with a charcoal filter (plus use low odor resin) and the cleaning process is quick and easy, to the point where I often don't bother putting on gloves as I don't touch the resin.
    Sumner likes this.
  4. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky November 18, 2022 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter In Memoriam

    I use three mason jars (one with Simply Green, one with "pretty used isopropanol", and one with "barely used, or fresh, isopropanol". Put the prints into the Simply Green, and use ultrasonic cleaner for 3 minutes. Lift/dip/lift/dip. Move to jar #2, 3 minutes ultrasonic. Lift/dip/lift/dip. 3 minutes jar #3 in ultrasonic. Prints are now clean.

    Use hairdryer on warm, not hot, to dry any large drops of the IPA. Trim off supports, then put on UV powered turntable inside foil lined box, with a UV lamp shining down. Two minute exposure. All done and cured

    Here's lamp and turntable:
    Sumner likes this.
  5. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

    I have three tubs of IPA. I just swish around the print and use a very soft half inch brush to clean. The tubs are with locking lids. No ultrasonic cleaner, I found it did just as well without. I use my airbrush to blow the wet drops off the prints after cleaning.

    Finally, turntable in foil lined shoe box for curing. Works great for me, and not even a bit messy
  6. rray

    rray Staff Member

    No brainer. Costs less than a Z Scale locomotive, I would buy one at the same time a I purchased a resin printer. This is a really fair price, and I come from the school of guys spending $15K on an entry level metal tube laser engraver. I will get both a resin printer and wash and cure this year.
    BNSF FAN and Sumner like this.
  7. Chris Hall

    Chris Hall TrainBoard Member

    One thing I forgot to mention and is something often overlooked is the post print cleaning of the printer itself. If you don't intend to use the printer for several days it pays to empty the resin tank and clean it. Like wise if you are changing from one type of resin to another you have to, again, clean the tank. This can get a bit tedious some times and not as easy as just changing the filament.

    That said, for the small prints you do, the resin will certainly help out. The small traffic cones that you mentioned, I did something similar when I first got the printer and was able to print about 30 in one go.
    Sumner likes this.
  8. Chris Hall

    Chris Hall TrainBoard Member

    Dunno if this is helpful to you for a comparison, but here is a modified version of your servo mount I printed out this morning on the resin printer. came out pretty accurate, even down to the holes. IMG_4485.jpg
    Sumner likes this.

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