do you guys know of any good articles or threads here detailing how to build a building from scratch? looking for basic tips to start. i consider myself an advanced modeler (of kits) however ive never built anything substantial from scratch. i do also want to see how people set up their steps to paint each individual custom piece too. thanks!
Here's a couple threads that I did that captured how I built some structures: http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...sto-J-S-West-Mill-complex&highlight=west+mill http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...Depot-project-started&highlight=modesto+depot http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...t-Burger-in-n-scale&highlight=in+n+out+burger What are you going to build?
If you're considering scratching with wood: [video=youtube_share;05gbRVOABgg]http://youtu.be/05gbRVOABgg[/video] [video=youtube_share;8wt5WI9Iqsk]http://youtu.be/8wt5WI9Iqsk[/video]
I usually build using styrene. Dave n has some great links and some really great buildings, too. I have had some really great builders tell me "how" they did it, but that is easy for them to say. One of the most consistent things I heard (This probably applies to all structure material types) is to make it square. Not close to square; it really needs to be square. If you make a structure that has four sides and three of the walls are square but one is slightly off, it just won't fit correctly. It will be close but not exact. Now you "fix" that by sanding and making it close and the next section of the building won't fit next to it because the first section wasn't correct, etc. You are always correcting after the first error. It can be done and it won't be too noticeable if you are careful, but the construction process is just more difficult. What type material are you planning to use? Here is a building, mostly square, with some additional shapes added. It follows a prototype.
I've been scratchbuilding a lot of the structures on my current layout (learning what works best and what doesn't through a lot of trial and error). All blogged about in tedious detail here - http://www.visi.com/~spookshow/layout6.html Here's one of my more recent efforts - -Mark
ah thanks for the responses guys. i posted last week about a taiwan train station i wanted to build here. http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...from-taiwan-newbie-sourcing-expert-info/page2 you guys have some lovely work!!! ill need to take a good look through these tips and articles that you guys posted. I'm making this out of sheet styrene from evergreen or plastruct unless there are better suggestions My main concerns are (this is before i have read any of the posted articles): -painting the building - do i paint in pieces or all at once, seems like in pieces then glue together. this will probably be the most work as i plan to do an interior too. -making a square building (as mentioned above) and no distortions -how to make parts of the building thicker, i think styrene only goes up to a certain thickness? do i layer? use balsa wood? (see building cement roof for example) seems like ill be making alot of runs to the model shop. this all makes me wish i took some architecture classes. i do plan to start with some computer elevation drawings so that i can have a blueprint to work off of, otherwise everything is up in the air right now. this should be small enough where i can draw 1:1 to n scale.
There's actually a bunch of building tips in my "Kids & Model Railroading" article in MRH as well as the "Train-in-a-Box" articles in N-Scale Modeler. You're best buddy in scratchbuilding with styrene, however, is LEGOS: Easy to use & CA (they're plastic!) and they keep things square. Gotta love the Lego's!!
I try to avoid paint before glue if at all possible - gluing together pre-painted parts is usually a big mess. I guess it all depends on the building in question. If it's all going to be one color, I build then paint. If there are multiple colors, I paint and then glue. I usually go with two layers of styrene - a thin layer for the outer detail (bricks, siding, whatever) and then a thicker inner layer for stability. This has the added benefit of making it easy to add a foundation layer - Make sure to get yourself a couple of different sized Micro-Mark corner punches - a must for making window and door openings. -Mark
I've done a few over the years. A lot were/are out on the old Atlas forum, and you have to have been a member out there to log in and retrieve the archives. Over here on Trainboard, here's a couple: The NAPA Auto Parts store in Flagstaff: http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?97650-NAPA-auto-parts-store&highlight=auto+parts Town House Motel Project in Flagstaff: http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...Town-House-Motel-Project&highlight=auto+parts Commercial Hotel project in Flagstaff: http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine...ing-the-Commercial-Hotel&highlight=auto+parts I think the Monte Vista Hotel and the La Posada in Winslow were both on Atlas. Anyway, there's some stuff in there that might help you.
BTW, if you're looking for some good styrene bricks, these are some of the best I've yet encountered - http://www.ebay.com/itm/ABS11-4pcs-...655826?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item337aa044d2 I also like the look of RSLaser's peel'n'stick lasercut wood bricks, although I find working with styrene easier - I'm not overly impressed with the usual suspects' (Plastruct, et al) selection of bricks :-( -Mark
One thing I haven't seen explicitly stated - particularly with styrene... Some 'model cements' of the solvent variety have highly undesirable results when laminating styene sheet or specialty material together. The obvious one is that too much glue leads to dissolving through the surface layer, but the more insidious one is shrinkage over time. I'm not sure why, but with certain solvents and Evergreen styrene, if you put layers together, it is going to warp and bend - a lot. Any time you're doing layers, I'll do just enough solvent to hold it (edges, maybe) and then do the rest of the between-layer bonding with ACC. It doesn't dissolve or distort the styrene, so it doesn't warp it. I've come to the conclusion that you can't put enough reinforcement in to offset that, either. I really like layering to build-up detail and texture, I just steer clear of the solvents with holding layers of material together.
these are excellent guys! i cant wait to start. what do you mean a thicker inside layer? how is that situated inside the model. is it stuck to the outside layer too? which may lead to the quote below? I think i may opt to paint after assembling. looks like i only have 2 major colors to work with, the brick and cement color. however the insides may be crazy. i may just make some stickers and print those out. any other tools i should get a hold of that would make my life easier? those corner punches are a great idea. What is ACC? =). i had a feeling that regular cements would warp. heres the photo again. ill probably need to make a removable roof so i can get to the insides as well as place in the windows last after painting.
Each wall section is comprised of two layers (glued together) - a thin outer "siding" layer (the side of the wall that's visible when the building is assembled) on top of a thicker inner "plain" layer (the side that is not visible from the outside). Or at least that's how I like to do it. I generally follow these steps - 1 - Buy/make the desired door and window frame details (generally prefab from Grandt Line, et al) 2 - Cut appropriately sized inner wall (thick) sections and mock them up with the door and window frames to make sure everything lines up how you want 3 - Punch window and door holes through the wall sections - file as needed to get the doors and windows to fit 4 - Cut appropriately sized outer wall (thin) sections and glue them on top of the inner wall sections 5 - Punch door/window holes through the outer layer (using the first set of holes as a guide) 6 - Glue in the door and window details, and then assemble the wall sections 7 - Paint Of course, many variables depending on what exactly is being built. But that's the basic method I use. -Mark
I don't know, I don't think I've ever had any problems with buildings warping because of the glue. Any distortions in my buildings come courtesy of the guy doing the building -Mark
Mark, I've seen those listed on eBay, but I was hesitant because of the "HO or N" description. So you're saying the bricks are appropriately sized for N? Jim
ACC = 'super glue' I've certainly had all kinds of problems with warp and twist of solvent cements on styrene. Might take 3-4 years, but it will happen. It's not the styrene itself. I have some really old sheets of material lying around. And it's only the soft white 'evergreen' sheets that do it. Never had a problem with like Kibri roof sheets, or Plastruct. But if I want to laminate up thickness of multiple sheets? Yeah, I've moved 100% over to ACC and don't have a bit of trouble with it.
ACC CA...cyanoacrylic super glue ACC or CA tends to form a hard exterior shell around the items to be bonded. It will penetrate if the items are porous. IMHO, styrene is not porous but the CA will hold it together. The more common types actually "weld" the two surfaces together. Actually melt the styrene. Maybe some chemist types can give more accurate data. Practice is also recommended.
