Another SP GP9 Experiment -Headlights

sp9800 May 27, 2008

  1. sp9800

    sp9800 TrainBoard Member

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    Here's the alpha test for scratchbuilt SP light package installed on a junker Atlas GP7:
     

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  2. sp9800

    sp9800 TrainBoard Member

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    Two more shots:
     

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  3. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    Looks great! :thumbs_up: I'm ready for the tutorial.

    There was an article in N Scale railroading a long time ago about doing these with plastic sprues from your left overs. I don't remember who wrote that.
     
  4. John Barnhill

    John Barnhill TrainBoard Member

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    Fantastic! I've been using Sunrise Enterprise parts for years. Would love to know more about your scratchbuilt ones.
     
  5. OC Engineer JD

    OC Engineer JD Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Yes, me too! That light package looks great! :)
     
  6. denny99

    denny99 TrainBoard Member

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    Awesome!!! Now you really have to teach us how to do it :D
     
  7. Sizemore

    Sizemore TrainBoard Supporter

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    You might consider casting it and selling it!
     
  8. sp9800

    sp9800 TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for the compliments guys!

    Here's the quick and dirty:
    For the gyralight

    1. Take a length of .060" square styrene rod and glue two equal lengths of .060" half round styrene rod to two of the opposite sides of the square rod, and let it dry. This give you a billet with the gyralight "profile."

    2. Use a NWSL True Sander (or equivalent) to square up one end of the gyralight billet, then use a NWSL Chopper (or equivalent) to cut it into .060" lengths. This gives you Gyralight blanks.

    3. Take a sharp hobby knife and round over the egde of on side of the blank. This is kind of tedious because the blank is really small. Use a pair of XURON needlenose pliers to hold the blank while scraping. Hold lightly, but firm as not to crush the blank. Use a 600 grit sanding stick to smooth over the rounded edge.

    4. Now come the holes for the light lenses. This I did with the mill to ensured that the holes lined up and were an exact, specified distance apart. It can be done by hand, just use calipers or some other means to draw a centerline on the blank. A 7" lens in N-scale measures .04375". The closest match is a #57 bit which measures .043". I drilled the holes .054" apart. However, try .060". Use the joint between the square and half-round and the centerline you marked earlier as you string point.

    And that's pretty much it!

    Here a drawing to illustrate:
     

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  9. MRL

    MRL TrainBoard Member

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    Yes I totaly agree!!! Definately:tb-nerd:
     
  10. sp4009

    sp4009 TrainBoard Member

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    Take a good clean master, make a quick mold, get about 12 "good" castings, and make a mold of those 12. It'll keep the parts consistent and give you a bunch at once. If you want to do the whole cluster at once, use a two part mold.

    If you decide to:tb-wink:
     
  11. denny99

    denny99 TrainBoard Member

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    Me too! I already reserve 10 pieces :)
     
  12. Sizemore

    Sizemore TrainBoard Supporter

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    If SP9800 wants to float one my way I can try it. I need to perfect my casting technique and this might be the ticket!

    T
     
  13. sp9800

    sp9800 TrainBoard Member

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    These are preliminary drawing showing the light pakage with a .005" and .010 mounting plate:
     

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