Charlie, I heard a rumor somewhere that the Concor Hudson shell is a drop fit onto the Kato (Japanese) C-62 mechanism. Is this a truth?
I would be interested in the answer to this question also as I have spent many hours getting my four Con-Cor hudsons to run almost as good as my Kato Mikados. Are you having a problem with the running gear of your Hudsons Dick? Send them to the LLW. You would not believe how nice mine run, but they don't look like the original anymore that had the two smoke stacks, as they have been modified to look more like a CNR Hudson, except for the tender. The LLW is still working on that one. Incidentally the rod setup on the JNR Hudson is totally different than on the Con-Cor Hudson and I would asume that the Con-Cor is proto typically correct, but I'd bet that the JNR C-62 does run nicely.
Gary, I have one of the "middle period" Hudsons, made by Kato. Runs beautifully, don't think I could kill it with a hammer! The C-62 also runs beautifully, but does look a little Japanese in spite of some alterations and "add-ons". The rods are different, but I think I'll be happy if I can just change the looks of the superstructure. Modifying the 8 wheel tender might convince the not so exacting on-looker that it is a MEC Hudson. I have also heard that an old Atlas Pacific/Mikado shell adapts nicely to the Kato Japanese Pacific, which also runs sweetly. I am hoping Charlie's answer is in the affirmative! Pardon my not knowing, but what is LLW?
The C-62 is indeed very close to the size of the J3a Hudson (you can use either mech for the GHQ Milw F7 Hiawatha, for example). IMHO, as long as you stay away from the first batch of China-built ConCor Hudsons (plain black paintjobs, no fancy smokebox or striping, conventional boiler- the ones with the slippery driver centers that fall off the mech) other than replacing the traction tire to a tighter one that stays on the wheel you should have no problem with ANY of the ConCor Hudsons- Japan or China.... they are one of the all-time best designs ever, and the later China-built runs have improvements over the original- lights front and rear, wires with disconnects between loco and tender routed through the trailing truck, increased driver diameter and blackened wheels, better graphics, added Scullen Disc Drivers, better motor..... so they should run okay for you. The Zen Master has expounded in the pages of N Scale Magazine how to use Japanese (Kato and MicroAce clones) mechanisms to model US steam. Problem with JR prototypes is that (after considering prototype size and different scales of models) the motor ends up in the wrong place for most US prototypes and most JR steam has disc drivers.... somewhat unusual for smaller locos in US practice. Greg outlines his solutions to the motor problem in his articles. More US steam is on the way next year from various manufacturers..... Life is good. Charlie Galesburg & Savanna Rwy. Co.
Dick, The LLW is the LEWIS LOCOMOTIVE WORKS based in Kelowna British Columbia Canada. Would you like to see a picture of some of my four CNR Santa Fe 2-10-2s' with winter cabs, all built up from the Minitrix Decapod chassis and parts from Kato Mikados, Bachmann 4-8-4 Northerns with a long haul tenders, and Atlas light Pacifics. I enjoy kitbashing steamers and fixing them. I just recently discovered that Minitrix Pacific Idler rod is the same rod used on the Minitrix Decapod, but thank goodness the Pacifics' crank pin is metal. The Decapod has those #@!%*+# plastic crank pins that break very easily. If you do have a Minitrix Decapod with a broken crank pin, it is not toast as changing it out to a Pacific crank pin and idler rod works fine. If you do decide to attempt to change out this rod, I would suggest that you do not remove the base plate or the driver set while replacing the rod. On the Con-Cors, I have one each of the first two Con-Cor Hudsons produced and two of the last version. I have had no problems with the running of any of them, although I did have to replace the driver set on one of them and I'll bet that it was the first China built version that Charlie mentioned. I have rewired most of them with a more flexible wire and added better disconnect pins, moving them to the inside the tenders. I have also cut off the double smoke stack and added scratchbuilt Elesco feedwater heaters. I was contemplating cutting a piece out of the center of those long Hudson tenders as CNR never had any like that, but I think it will be better to buy some Kato Mikado and Bachmann 2-8-0 tenders to play with. While don't you buy a Kato Mikado tender to replace the JNR one on your modified C-62? I'm testing a Mikado tender on one of my 2-10-2s and having better pickups on the tender, sure smoothed out that jerky Decapod motor and running gear. It is sure great to have someone like Charlie on the board now isn't it, with all his knowledge about the hobby. If you do put a Con-Cor shell on your C-62 I'd sure like to see a picture of it.
Thanks, Charlie, your imput is greatly appreciated, not to mention encouraging. It sounds like I have a good summer project to work on. Your comment about more N scale steam on the way next year causes me to hope that there's a subtle hint there that Kato may be involved! Here's hoping!
Gary, thanks to you for your response, also. Yes I'd love to see a pic of your CNR Hudson as well as your 2-10-2's. I have one Minitrix decapod whose only modification by me was to move the boiler rear-ward to line up the steam pipes correctly. I often considered more modifications to make it ressemble the MEC/B&M (ex Santa Fe) decapods but, so far, have lacked time and guts to try it. The Mikado (Kato) tender on the MEC Hudson would look a lot better than the Japanese one, fo sure, wish I had thought of it! When I modeled British outline (for about 10 years), I was never put off when it came to modifying locos, (maybe, because to have the variety one wanted, one had to buy white metal kits and various chassis and build them), however, I've always hesitated when it came to cutting up the North American locos on my roster.... can't say why. Retirement in June will give me extra time to work on the hobby so one of my hithertofore acceptable excuses will melt away! I also have a Peco Jubilee and Grafar "Black Five" left over that I am eyeing with jaundiced eye with the hope of converting them to North American 10 wheelers. Perhaps, one day, an inspiration will occur! Again, YES, would love to see the picures. If I end up with an acceptable conversion of my C-62, I will definitely send it. Thanks, again.
Dick, thanks for your interest in wanting to look at photos of my kitbashed up 2-10-2s' and the Hudsons. I have a new digital camera and I will send the pics along to your email address as soon as I take new ones. Gary
