THE TENWHEELER IS HERE EVERYBODY! more pix are on page 2, here are instructions for how to make it: Hey everybody. I intend on using this thread to show some of my kitbashing ideas to the world. Got a Bachmann connie and MP vandy tender lying around? or a Model Power mogul that you want M-classed? Or do the new Bachmann 4-6-0 the SP way? Here's what you can do with 'em: Make an SP (or SD&AE) C-8, C-9, C-10, C-31, T-58 or T-31 (YES, A TENWHEELER FROM A CONSOLIDATION. LEAD TO GOLD! I CALL IT "N SCALE ALCHEMY"!) 2-8-0: This is fairly straightforward with only minimal changes to running gear, w/ the chassis left intact. start by removing the original sand dome and file a filler styrene piece flush with the boiler. Then sand off the original sandlines. Next, use another bachmann 2-8-0 steam dome (avaliable for $2 @ bachmann's online catalog) and file the inside for flush mounting where the bell originally was, but you may need to trim the metal frame nubs sticking up with 2 wires where the original steam dome was with a needle file. Drill a tiny hole for the bell on the styrene filler piece and add new sand lines. This will take care of the dome arrangement in SP connies. Next, remove the walschaerts valve gear so that only the main and connecting rod are left. Why? This is a way for me to reseamble having the stephenson valve gear. Then, use a styrene tube of the same diameter of the stack to extend it to a prototypical height, just taller than the lead dome. next, replace the stock headlight with a lowered Pyle national headlight (with visor) a bit below the boiler centerline ( made the pyle light by cutting and filing the stock light) , a significant spotting feature. paint the smokebox fron bright silver and add train indicator boards (I scratchbuilt them but they're available from Detail's associates) Then replace the front ladders with SP-style steps and smokebox support beams and add sp "wraparound" smokebox grabirons, also scratchbuilt. For a vandy tender, use a Model power Vanderbilt tender with Bachmann 2-8-0 tender trucks. I soldered wire leads from the front truck to the back truck, allowing for flawless all wheel pickup, plus they will pass for water or steam lines under the tender. Underside shot of tender is under attatchments 4-6-0( Here at last!!!): For an SP tenwheeler ( I'll use SP T-31 #2353 as an example, do all of the above first EXCEPT FOR VALVE GEAR REMOVAL!!! DONT DO THAT!!!!! Next, cut the siderods short @ the 2nd drive wheel, drill new holes for crankpins, and remove the first set of drivers. (You can drill a new hole in the siderod to use the crank pin from the first set of drivers that were removed.) Then use a dremel tool to carve out an opening where the first drivers were to make room for a 4-wheel pony truck (a bachmann heavy mountain pilot truck, also available in the parts catalog, modified with a widened wheelbase) Now you must devise a way to attatch the swivel arm of the truck to the chassis, the swivel of the pilot truck arm may reach back to a frame screw sticking up from the bottom of the chassis in front of the second set of drivers(now the first set) so if you can, hook it there like i did with a longer screw to provide a pivot point). Then, make a solid road pilot(optional, the footboard pilot would also suffice for 2362, 2360, and 2357) and your Heavy 4-6-0 will be complete! Now, if you want to model 2353's specific tender, replace the tender trucks with those from Bachmann's light mountain for they more closely reseamble the tender's almost alco-diesel-diesel-looking trucks, and move the running boards to OVER the tender lettering and you're ready to pull harriman cars on the SD&AE just like in the old days! Or use it as a tourist or museum locomotive on your modern layout! see pictures below for additional pictures for the 2-8-0 tender and side details. More pix of the 4-6-0 are on page 2. Enjoy!