After receiving numerous repliesd to my question -- separating paint -- and mentioning I planned to use a brush, I finally surrender to the airbrush (many on this list, the N-scale list and those who responded to me privately said brushing by hand just doesn't work). The airbrush will have to be an entry-level type because I don't have a lot of cash laying around. Any recommendations? Thanks.
John, Basically there are two types of airbrushes, single action and double action. The double action brushes offer the most contol but are the more expensive. It is possible to learn on one, but I recommend starting with a single action brush, and since you are on a budget, this is really the only option. (the 'double action' is that the trigger contols both the air flow and the paint flow by pushing down and pulling back - on a single action brush the trigger only contols the air flow by pushing down - you adjust the paint with a screw adjustment.) Within the single action airbrush type there are several different desings - the main ones are the 'external mix' and 'internal mix' - The interanl mix are more difficult to clean and more expensive - what you get is a much finer spray pattern. In your case, I would stick to the external mix design - I think they are better for the beginner and they are less expensive to boot. The low cost single action external mix airbrushes that I recommend are the Paasche model H and the Badger model 350. Both are around $30 USD. There are less expensive (under $20) spray guns available. These do a great job of putting on a smooth layer of paint. I recommend spending the extra cost of a boxcar and getting the H or 350 - you will have better control and soon will find yourself weathering models with amayzing realisim.
I have a new Pashe double action that was factory tested. To learn how it works, I used ordinary tap water and the recommended 25psi from my shop compressor. So far if I press all the way down on the trigger, no water mist comes out. I am then supposed to slowly pull back on the trigger while holding it down all the way, and it is supposed to begin to spray the "paint". I used a mirror to spray onto. I figured I could see the water better if it arrived. So far I have not had any luck. Is water too thick (viscosity too heavy?) or is paint thinner the test thing to use? I am told to thin lacquer down one drop to six drops of thinner. The little bucket only holds six drops at a time, and can spill if any more is added. My understanding is that it only requires four drops to apply good color to an entire passenger car, if this is true, that is really a thin coat of paint! This is the brush I have: [ 15. September 2002, 06:45: Message edited by: watash ]
I used a Testors Aztek A 320 (I think it was a 320) for a number of years with great results. It's an entry level single action internal mix brush with interchangable tips for different applications. I finally wore out the trigger spring and ended up replacing it with a cloned Badger 150. It took me all of about 5 seconds to figure out the doubel action trigger and I've been very happy with it since. I would strongly recommend the Aztek to anyone, though with the caveat that for what you would pay for the wood case and full set of tips you can get a more professional brush.
watash, That looks a lot like the Paasche model H brush. It looks like a single action, external mix brush. Pressing down on the trigger will turn the air on and off - but pulling back on the trigger won't let paint (or water) flow. To get the paint to flow: Where the cup attaches, there is a screw adjuster that you can loosen to allow the paint to flow - there is a needle under the tip that the paint flows over and the more you loosten the tip, the more paint will flow. Water is good to get the basic idea, but you will want to spray some paint on some scrap plastic or an old box car to get the hang of painting. Air pressure, paint thickness and distance from the working surface all effect the quality of the paint job. It takes a while to learn.
I am going to interject here about the Testors Aztek. I won't say that it is a bad airbrush. I will say that I have seen a lot of disapointed folks that bought one, only to find that they can't up-grade it in any way. Dozens of people have come into the hobby shop wanting to convert their Aztek to run on an air compressor. It can't easily be done with any parts made by Testors or anyone else. You have to jury rig something. I would recommend anything by Badger or Pasche. I personally own the exact type that Watash pictured above. If there is anything to be said about it's dependability, I inhereted it from my late Uncle's estate. He bought it sometime in the early 1960's. Judging by the HO layout and equipment he had. I would say he sprayed many gallons of paint with it. It still works great. I do nothing but clean it regularly.
Hey ole buddy, Howe cums u dun git that ther spray machine? u nows u need use all 5 fingrs to work it an u aint got but tree. Kidding aside, here's a good trick with the Paasch. Fill the red handle with #9 bird shot and pour white glue in to secure it. The added weight balances the brush much better. Gotta go, Will continue later
John,like you i dont have alot of cash laying around to get a high end airbrush at the time i got mine my now 14 month old daughter was on the way and I needed to find something easy to use and cheap. I bought an testors airbrush and propellant kit #8821 which comes with a aztek A2203 or a A2206 airbrush and supplies and a can of air, also included in the kit was an adaptor for conecting the airbrush to a compressor. the kit works well with enamels or acrylics , no extra or special tips that need to gotten. the kit can be found in most stores that sell model paints and such, and in looking aorund most model shop carry and spare or replacement parts I may need. I have used the airbrush to get a nice looking rusty wheel looks on my rolling stock and I have been practicing on makeing the road spray look to the sides of my cars and locos. I had bought the kit after talking with 2 people I work with that both use airbrushes for there modeling needs and sugested, I start out low end and play around before I went out and spent alot of money. the kit come with every thing you need to get started except for paint and thinner when needed acrylics you can use water. as far as adjusting paint flow for any desired effects you simple raise or lower the paint bottle up or down to get the desired flow. I looked at other airbrushes and they looked complicated. sofar the only problem has been a good air source the cans of air dont seem to last very long and can be expensive so now im looking for a small compressor on the cheap , due to the fact my second child is now coming soon [ 28. September 2002, 14:41: Message edited by: Wolv_Cub ]
You will need a pressure regulator, and an air pressure gauge. And it will help if you add an air valve (on-off). Look at any large Hardware supply store like Home Depot, Lowe's, or and auto suply store. Get the necessary pipe fittings to connect these three items, and one to connect to the aircompressor. Auto stores and Sears have small diaphram type air pumps that can get up to 25-30psi, but only have pressure while running. You can also air up a spare tire to around 45psi and get an adapter to go on the valve stem. It can give you a larger volumn, and can be re-pressurized at the filling station. The big Cambell-Hausfield compressors are fine if you want to paint for twentyfour hours at a time too. You will need a water filter for them, or you will soon be running moist air through your paint gun!
