Just staring a new layout with 2" foam base for first time. Using Titebond II for adhering cork roadbed to foam. So far so good. What is best way to adhere track to roadbed? Especially concerned about using flextrack, causing stress on track already down while flex is bent to proper radius. Thanks, Joe D
I use caulk (DAP Alex Plus). Thin bead, spread to thin layer. Holds flex in place while you work, then I put t-pins to hold it while it cures. Got about 10-15 minutes to work before it gets gummy. Wait 1/2 day (or full day) and that track's not going anywhere. Want to remove the track? Slip a knife under the track carefully and it all comes up.
+1 that's how I do it, also make sure the calk is a paint able latex type. I use the construction tubes and when done place a 2" wide piece of masking tape over the end, seems to keep it from drying out better for me than the old screw in the end trick!
I'll say this again, although I must be a broken record. You can't beat yellow carpenter's glue. I say that even though one of the people who pioneered caulk is a friend, but oh boy does it seem to me a pain in the ass. Bill Pearce
My adhesive of choice is Polyseamseal All-Purpose Clear. Just $4 at Home Despot: In addition to track and roadbed, it's also my adhesive of choice for scenery materials (foam board, tunnel portals, bridge abutments, concrete retaining walls, planting tree trunks, etc.
I like Liquid Nails/Foam for most everything because it doesn't attack plastics & foam. For track, lay a small bead on the roadbed, spread with finger tip, then press on the pre-curved track. It starts to set within 15 minutes which allows time to adjust curvature and alignment. To remove, run a putty knife under the track and it will pop up. BTW, Liquid Nails/Foam washes off with water.
It's DAP Weldwood contact cement for me; track can be adjusted a little bit but then it stays put without need for pins or other place holders. It doesn't come undone when soaked with water later when ballasting, yet it allows track to be separated from its base by gently inserting a thin spatula if needed without destroying the track. Has worked for me Otto
X2. Awesome for flex because it grabs hard almost right out of the gate, goes on as a liquid so its easy to apply., and yo_ can move on to the next step quickly
Okay, I'll throw a monkey wrench into the works. I use runny CA and Accelerator to tack down ME code 55 and 40 flex. Then I do a final check and adjustment by using the Mk 1 Eyeball Method (looking down the track with my one good eye close to the railheads) adjusting curves and straights by moving the flex minutely between tacks, then add mo' runny CA and Accelerator between the tacks when I'm totally happy with track smoothness. I rarely have to pull up a tack, but when that happens, I run a thin metal sanding block under the rails using 220 grit emory paper and then reposition and glue again. Works good and goes fast. Works great for me, and it's almost immediately available for running. Problem is, ya gotta get it right the first time 'cause it's a pain the ass to pull up and reposition as I've stated above. However, that might be true for anything once the glues are cured or dried. My second choice is yellow carpenter's glue, and metal push-pins to hold the track down while the glue dries. Using CA, what really holds the track down is the ballast. I don't consider my track truly glued down until the ballast glue is dry. Works for me! Cheers! Bob Gilmore PS...did I say "works for me"????
