I've both a Hornady powder dispenser and an RCBS rangemaster 750 scale which when doing rifle loads I double check the first few throws and last on a beam scale. High accuracy rounds I always double check. Thus far the variance seems to be only about < .05 grains always giving the beam scale the final say. The powder dispenser is not going to be worth the money unless you want to streamline your reloading process too but they (Hornady) do make a G3 1500 for around $60 with the same claim of accuracy as their dispenser. The rangemaster is pretty expensive compared to the hornady but I found a few used 750s for a reasonable price online... just don't get one that is missing the calibration weights.
My copy is autographed... I met Shep at a book store in New Jersey. He was a Major Influence (not to be confused with a Major Award): http://irwinsjournal.com/ijonline/ijshep.htm
I forgot to add- I also use sand, like sandbox stuff. Multicolored, fills hoppers and gondolas well, get the right weight, and just add a bit of isopropyl and dilute Elmer's, and let it set so it won't move or spill out.
Three things I don't like with this method: 1. It raises the center of gravity in the car which can lead to problems. 2. Emptying the car becomes a problem. Hoppers usually haul loads only one way and return empty. 3. What is the load supposed to be? It looks like sand and oversized sand at that. Depending on how many hoppers one has I would consider spraying the inside of the car with some mold release agent and then pouring in some plaster of Paris to make a master copy. Once that sets up, remove it and sand the top of the plaster to get a flat surface and correct weight. Then flip it over on a glass surface and use liquid rubber to make a mold which you can use to make as many copies as you need.
I bought a new scale last night at Office Depot. I was shocked at the shelf price, but a nice salesman checked their web price, which was about half, like $17 with tax, so I bought it. I have used all the methods listed above, as it suits, and appreciate the link to the 1/8 oz weights, as I had only seen a 1/4 oz weights in stores. On empty flats, I use the golf club lead tape, but since I am more interested in ops than photos, I use car tabs, and have no trouble just writing the industry name that they go to on the weight, i.e., "Stankey Septic Supplies." I trim them in half to put on each side of Center Beams if needed. I have also put the fishing weights/buckshot and lead weights (trimmed) under hopper bays and on flat cars, cut to fit openings under the flat car. I tend to weigh things perhaps too much. I think the .5 oz, plus 0.15 oz per inch is too light. Personally, I recommend 110-120% or a bit more above this standard. A 50 ft box car should weigh only a shade over an ounce? I think it should be a half ounce more. I have one 2% grade (actually Woodland Scenics grade, so 1 in 48 or 2.08%, and some overweighted cars make a single loco struggle up the grade with 15-16 cars. I also put weight anywhere I can on switchers and am thinking of trying it on bigger locos, too.
