I am posting this primarily to share some of my techniques for car construction. Due to the difficulties encountered in constructing such parts, I've chosen F scale (1:20.3) to make it easier to share photographs. As a refresher, LGB/#1 track is 45mm...45mm/25.4mm per inch=>1.77" track...36"/1.77"->1:20.3 A simple background: There were two of these cars...Colorado Central #26 and #27, built in 1883 by the Union Pacific...to the same basic design as the 20 or so DSP&P cars which preceded them. These later became C&S 1000 & 1001. I've chosen this car as part of a Colorado Central train I'm building for my baby son...but don't plan on doing more than the windows and some basic parts until the locomotive is complete. First I measured the windows: 1'8" wide, 2'8" tall. I chose the frames to appear to be around 1.5" wide...with the battens being closer to 1". Both panes will be moveable on the completed model. The window glazine will be removable. The total window width is 0.60"...which is possibly too narrow, but acceptable for me since that's the stock I had on hand. The window is a three layer sandwich, two pieces of bread which are the size I want the window to appear, but 0.020" extra on each side for the grooves. The sandwich filling is a slightly smaller frame of styrene which creates a pocket for the 0.015" glazing. First, I take my trusty digital caliper ($15 on sale at Harbor Freight tools)...this is my most important tool...accurate measurements make many things possible...and I use it to measure, cut, measure, file, one of the pieces I want. Next, I place that part on my NWSL chopper and adjust the stop so that each piece will be that length. After cutting the first one, I check to make certain that it is the same length (using the caliper, of course). I then cut everything that length I need. I rinse and repeat these two steps for all my parts...I had 264 pieces for one of passenger car projects a year or so ago...and it only took me a half hour or so to cut them all. The key to getting a consistent cut is to put a finger on each side of the blade so that the piece doesn't move around under the blade, use a thin firm backing if the parts are too thin (0.010" styrene), and to realize that the thinnest parts will slip under the guide at the top of the chopper. So here are all the parts needed for one window. I'm only adding the batten for the outer most layer...it could also be added for the inner layer.
Next, I assemble one of the outer frames. Do so on a metal base. A little glue helps keep the parts in place...and I typically use either tweezers or my blade to position them. Use a metal edge to make the corners flush. I eyeball what is square, and they'll be flexible enough for mild corrections once installed. The inner frame and other outer frame then go into place. Lastly, I added the battens using spacers I cut for the task...just a little cement on each end and set it into place...the glue holds just fine. I've used this technique in O scale as well. My most recent projects in O scale involved windows with just a single layer of frame...and they have plenty structural integrity. Note: Do not remove the windows from the metal until the cement dries. When you do, use your hobby knife if they want to stick. As always, use a sharp hobby knife. I prefer Excel to X-acto, but am currently using x-acto. I also prefer an emery board to a file. Here are some cars I'm currently building...all the windows are custom built exactly to the size I wanted. I don't even really know what commercial windows are available anymore, because mine are so cheap and I've take to enjoying it! The cars are On3. It took me very little time to make all of these windows. I've also produced the moving panes for the baggage car. Michael
Holy Tons-of-tiny-styrene-parts, Batman! And a wonderful job you've done so far! I have a mild bit of interest in the old South Park, CC, CM and other Colorado short lines. They had tough lives, dealing with phenomenal snowfighting, dizzying elevations, treacherous trackwork, not to mention competing with the D&RG, RGW and UP for business! Anyone who didn't get a knot in his or her stomach when passing over the 1000-foot wood trestle on Hagerman Pass, at 11,000+ feet elevation with a howling gale rocking the structure was indeed a tough customer.
Thank you guys. Before I picked up the chopper and the caliper...I did the same thing with a scale ruler and a sharp blade...they just help with the precision and especially the speed...not concerns with a waycar, but issues when building 64 window panes for a passenger car. traingeekboy, our signatures work well together! The Colorado Midland was a fine road. The next book which I will be reading is on the CS&CCD Ry. I know some of the basics...but get a little fuzzy on how exactly it relates to the others over time. I believe that it was bought by the C&S...and then sold, acquired the F&CC, and then it was acquired by the Midland Terminal whom took over the eastern end of the Colorado Midland...I'll know for certain in a few weeks! The Busk trestle at Hagerman Pass was truly a sight to behold. That entire pass was simply amazing. I cannot think of a SG railroad which could compare with that.
I can think of a few passes that could rival the scenery, but the engineering was indeed amazing. I wish I could have seen it in action, but alas, 91 years ago, it ceased to exist. The Chopper II is a great tool for repetitive cuts. About 40 bucks, and it's worth every penny. Plus, it's made in the USA! Not many hobby tools there days are. NWSL makes some fine tools. I look forward to seeing this project progress!
