I installed my first decoder tonight ... and it works! It could not have been simpler; it is a TCS AMD4 in an Atlas GP-38-2. Nevertheless, I'm proud of this modest accomplishment. The next couple of locos won't be so easy, since they need to be hard wired, but for tonight I can bask in the glory of a successful install. - Jeff
Absolutely job well done! My first decoder install was about a year ago; my first hardwire decoder install was a day ago! I'm right there with ya!
Congratulations! I think I know what a decoder looks like, 'n that's about it. You are way ahead of me.
I would not call it a small victory. Congratulations. I have done two hard wire and one drop in so I can hardly call myself experienced at it BUT I do know the feeling of accomplishment you are feeling. Way to go! Old Fat Robert
It was very cool to put the newly-decodered GP-38-2 on a small test track along with a Bachmann 44-tonner (with DCC) and run both engines at once. These are N-scale, so my "test track" is a single piece of Atlas code 55 flex! - Jeff
Having been an amateur radio operator for 45 years, soldering is second nature to me. I have the experience and the tools. What's not second nature is dealing with extremely small circuit boards and components. I have a couple of illuminated magnifiers, and I'm not sure I would even attempt a decoder install without them -- not N-scale anyway. Until just a few years ago, my vision was still great, but as I approach 60, not so much. - Jeff
Jeff, my recommendation is to use a low heat iron (12-18W), a sharp clean conic tip, high quality rosin, .015" 60/40 solder, and a very light touch. Although I don't use DCC, I've soldered IC boards including surface mount without a problem...after a few early goofs while learning. :tb-embarrassed:
Hytec - Those are good recommendations. I could not have said it better myself. I have the tools, including a nice temperature controlled Weller soldering station, a variety of thin conical tips, extremely fine rosin-core solder. I once calculated that I've made at least 10,000 solder joints in my life as an electronics hobbyist. Remember Heathkits? I built them by the dozen! So tools and soldering experience are not lacking. Youthful eyesight IS lacking, but the magnifiers really help. As a hedge against abject failure, I am using TCS decoders with the no-questions-asked replacement policy. So if I release the magic smoke, at least I can try again. I'll report on how it goes with the installation of a CN-GP decoder in my Atlas GP-7. - Jeff
Jeff, I agree with rosin-core solder, but I also add a dab of rosin beforehand that will melt and clean the surfaces when the iron is touched to the joint. This way the surfaces are thoroughly cleaned and heated as the solder is touched to the joint a second later. Whereas the rosin in the solder core won't melt until after the solder is heated and starting to flow, therefore the rosin may not reach and clean all surfaces before the molten solder has blocked its flow. BTW, I also have experienced the smoke-test quality assurance process. Analysis of smoke color and odor immediately determines which component(s) is(are) wiggling its(their) little prongs to heavens. :tb-ooh:
You really picked a nice decoder for your first hardwire install. Just be sure you have read the general guide for this unit on the TCS site. http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Literature/Literature.htm As posted before, welcome to the world of DCC. It's like a hobby within a hobby once you start playing with the CV's. Mark
CN-GP Install in Atlas GP7 Here's my second N-scale decoder installation. It's a TCS CN-GP decoder in an Atlas GP-7. And ... drum roll, please ... it works! This is my first install that required soldering. Equally important, it was also the first time I have ever dismantled an engine. (Installing a drop-in decoder doesn't count.) The whole process took me about two hours. Now that I've done the first one, it will only take me 30-40 minutes next time. I notice that the headlight LEDs on the decoder are bright enough that you can see them shining through the top of the plastic shell. What's the best way to shield them? While I had the engine in pieces I performed Ron Bearden's bearing block modification. I must say that the engine certainly is quiet now, although it wasn't real noisy before. Next on the workbench is a Life-Like SW9/1200 into which I will try to install a TCS M1 decoder. That will definitely be a challenge. - Jeff
Jeff, I am extremely impressed by two things... First, your workmanship. Second, your choice of Minute Man Maroon & Gold!!
Thanks. Nice color scheme, isn't it? I have the GP-7 and two SW9/1200's in Minute Man Maroon & Gold, plus a GP-38-2 in blue & white. My small pike is based on the Cheshire Railroad, a branch of the B&M that shut down several decades ago. My "back story" is that the Cheshire branch continued operating into the mid-1970's, serving the Keene-Swanzey-Troy area of southwest New Hampshire. The track is all laid, and I've been running it as a DC layout until I could add decoders to my small fleet. Now that I have 3 engines configured for DCC (one is a Bachmann 44-tonner that came standard with DCC), I'll soon be disconnecting the DC powerpack and permanently connecting the NCE Power Cab. - Jeff
