Hi all, looking for some input regarding a new plan... I'm trying to design a layout for myself and my 3y.o. son to have some fun with. I know he's young, but that's why I'm trying to have 2 separate lines on one board so he can just drive his around while I do switching, etc 3'x5' is the max I can have (per the wife lol). It has to be all on one level so it can be easily packed away when not in use (no mountains, no bridges, and buildings that I can remove and put in boxes without much trouble). I plan on not ballasting the track as this is a temporary layout (a year or two probably) until I can build a permanently setup one that won't get dismantled I'm not worried about landscaping or buildings at this time... limited time and money means the track comes first Here's a rough sketch I've come up with (1 box = 1")... obviously it's not exact. I've reserved a section of the board for putting controllers, switches, etc. I already have some atlas code 80 track (the snap kind) coming that I snagged cheap... can get more, can keep leftovers for the next incarnation. I think I'll be avoiding flex track as I plan to glue it all down rather than nailing. If anyone could give me some input I would really appreciate it! Thanks in advance!
go to http://www.atlasrr.com/righttrack.htm and download their tack program. You will need to re-thinkyour plan, the switches will not fit like you think.
I have been banging head with the same dilema you have in mind. I have 5yr old son who is absolutelly fascinated with trains! I like to do switching and operations. Obviouslly he is not ready for that yet. I found a basic plan that is a loop with a couple tracks for a yard. It is in the 101 track plans book, although not exactly sure what plan it is right now as I don't have the book in front of me. Basically mine will have a 2X8 ft layout with a branch that will climb a mountain and continue on to 2 other modules. Yes, I have the luxury of more room. And I also have the luxury of NO wife. So I can accomplish both things that I want to achieve. I will have a continuous run loop for my son (the back side of the layout will double as a staging yard since it is hidden in a tunnel) and my switching areas. It is a win win situation for all of us.
Got it and threw this plan in there... there's a join on the top right corner of the inside loop that I just can't work out tho http://www.curto.us/Plan1.ral
All I can say is lucky and lucky... well by next summer I should either have a designated area in the back room (6'x6'... I figure a 3' walk in, so 2 6x2 and 1 4x2 section) or... the cellar (huuuuuuge).
Curto, think about this....make all switches manual, ground throws...that way, there is less controls, simpler for him, and you can just connect the power pack when YOU want to
Well, I could just make the switches on his track (the outside line) manual Am I missing something? In all the small layout plans I've seen, none leave space for controllers/switches... where do people put them?
That's a interesting idea... I already have the remote switches, but there's no reason I couldn't mount the electrical switch next to the turnout I guess? Or... would there be any harm using the manual slider on the atlas remote switches and ignoring the electrical side? This layout is only temporary anyhow... the remote feature will be most useful on the next one Even covering the switches, where do people normally put their controllers? I thought the center of one side would be better.. being central. I'm thinking maybe rearranging and putting them on a corner? If I use the switches manually I'll be walking around the track throwing switches anyway, so a central location won't be so important right?
Here's a revised layout I drafted based on putting the controllers in the bottom left corner and using the switches manually (I know they're labelled as remotes still...) There's a lot of sidings so I can have fun keeping a bunch of cars on the rails at a time (I intend to insulate each siding so I can have multiple engines on the rails, but only 1 in motion). Any comments/suggestions? http://www.curto.us/Plan2.ral
Your outside loop in the plan in post #12 has several S-curves that can easily be eliminated to reduce derailments. One of the most egregious is at the top right, where the right-angle corner curve goes into a short S-curve jog. Replace the two half-curves that make the jog with a bit of straight track. That will pull the top right corner right-angle curve a little towards the top of the plan. Now, on the bottom of the plan, you have a very short runaround, possibly intended as a very short passing siding. It diverges toward the outside of the loop. Just take out the two end switches and all the track in between and flip it over so the passing siding is on the inside of the loop. That would put it a bit close to or over the inner loop as presently planned, so most of the bottom of the outer loop needs to be moved a little towards the bottom. That's easy on the right side of the outer loop. Just replace the little half section of straight track on the right end nof the loop with a full straight section. Notice that with the passing siding coming towards the inside of the loop, the curve into the siding on each end is a continuation of the same curve on each side. HOW, what can we do about the zig-zag-zig-zag bottom left corner? I am not sure how much space you need at the bottom left corner for the controls. I would replace the full curve at the left end of the bottom passing siding with a half curve and go with a straight diagonal toward the left bottom corner curve. Instead of making that a right-angle corner, replace the last full curve section on the bottom end of the curve with a half-curve. Voila, you have a fairly smooth and "railroady" loop of track. It might be necessary to saw 1 piece of straight track to fit...but maybe not, you might find half and shorter ready-made straight sections to make it all work. But sawing one piece of straight track would be easier than using flex. I know that remote controlled switches are used on rail railroads in hump yard, busy passenger terminals, tower-controlled junctions and at import points on busy mainlines. But most switching on industrial tracks and in most yards is done by a person on the ground alongside the track switch. But wherever practical, I use manual switches. That makes me stop and walk over to the switch, which is what the switchman has to do on the real railroad.
Thanks for that feedback Kenneth! I don't have time tonight, but tomorrow I'll try a redo and repost the plan
Just to check in... I haven't had a chance to redo the plan yet as the parts I've ordered have started arriving... I setup a simple oval on the dining room table to test locos/stock on... I've never seen my 3y.o. son get so excited lol Now I have another conundrum... I need to learn how to clean/lube locos... 1 of the used ones stutters a lot (so I think it's a pickup problem), and the other stuttered once but hasn't moved since (not sure if it's a pickup, or a loose wire inside). What's recommended oil to lube gears in a loco?
If they are diesels I would just get the plan out of the jewel box. It's usually under the loco. Look at how to open it up and then go for it. Plastic safe lube only!!! Life likes have a tendency to develop some kind of oxide on the pickups. More than other brands. If it's steam... Well, I am not brave enough to work on n scale steamers.
My plan is going to have the board with the digitrx and switches mound on a board that can be slid under the layout, like a drawer. I am going to have two panels for my layout, one on each side with a controller and switches for that side of the board. I can hide the boards under the layout.:tb-cool:
