1. Locomotive lights on DCC decoder won't turn on. Tried pushing zero key, but no result. 2. One DCC locomotive slows on one curve. I would have thought a track problem, but other DCC locomotive has no problem. 3. Turnout hot keys are great, but to switch locomotives you hve to push "Loco" key, then type in loco number, then "accept". Is ther a quicker way to change locomotives? 4. Turnout hot keys sometimes locomotives can travel 4 or 5 sections of track before changing. ****I love DCC control, my first one, but would like someone from wstern N.C. to check and fine tune system, before I start scenenery.
1. What DCC system are you using? What decoder? 2. What gauge? HO or N? 3. What loco? 4 axle or 6 axle? What radius curve? 4. What is a turnout hot key?
1. Dynamis Wireless DCC system. NCE Switch-Kat decoders for turnouts TCS K4D6 decoder in Kato MP36 locomotive TCS K0D8 decoder in Kato 1766011 Amtrack locomotive All Kato track 2. N gauge 3. 11" 45 degree curve track 4.Hot Keys for turnouts: Numbers 1-10 on handset. Click on turnout number assigned and you can change turnout direction. Like "favorites" on computer; a shortcut. The MP36 run perfect; the Kato 1766011 is the problem on the curve. This is my first Dcc layout; I am not a great model railroader, but I like model railroading for fun more than by club standards. I know there are better dcc systems, but I'm on Social Security, so money is limited. Thanks for any help you can share.
Never heard of Hot Keys. I guess it's a Bachmann thing. I have some Kato RDC's that bind up a little on the 11" radius curves. Is the problem loco 4 axle or 6 axle. Some locos with 6 axles may need a broader curve radius. As for the lights some of the mini leds do not emit enough light to be seen. I have a couple that the lights can't be seen. Run the loco with the shell off and watch the lights. the 0 (zero) button should turn the lights on or off. I use Digitrax so i'm not familiar with the Dyanmis system but the decoder functions should work with any DCC system.
If I understand the manual correctly, the Dynamis is a little confusing here. The numbered keys do control the functions as they do on most DCC systems, but on most systems keys 0-9 control functions 0-9. Since f0 is normally the headlight, key 0 controls the headlight, but on the Dynamis, key 0 controls f10, and there is a separate key(lower left hand side, with a picture of a light bulb below it) to control f0.
How does the Kato P42 Amtrak unit work everywhere else? Who installed the decoder? Are the motor leads soldered to the decoder? There are issues with board thickness on the Kato decoders from various manufacturers. Sometimes they are too thin and they move with only the gray button to keep them in place. Other times they are too thick and the same thing can happen. This may be the cause of the issue on the curved track. For best and reliable performance with the Kato locomotives that use K0D8 decider and also any other manufacturer, solder the motor leads to the decoder board. Hope this helps!
Dynamis Issu With the dynamis system, you need to program your locos separately on the main. Once u get them programmed, it's simply a matter of bumping the toggle lever to the left or right to select the loco u want to control. That's pretty cool. However, not all functions will work with the dynamis in my experience. This seems to be a logic issue between the manufacturer and the chip designers, imho. i have the dynamis pro which allows you to read CVs and program on a programming track. That's a big improvement but at a high cost. but i have decided to switch over to digitrax for my next, larger HO layout because i continually ran into signal issues between the QSI chips and the dynamis system. I think it could be because the dynamis only puts out 2.5 amps and the ez track and the HO locos seem not to like that. Dont really know why but am frustrated by the finger pointing with no resolution. Hope this helps!
Based on my experience with Dynamis: The Dynamis IR connection is quite often not working (or not working without several attempts) even though all indications are that it should be. This is the main reason for non-responses and delayed-responses. Quit often this is because I am not pointing (in both the horizontal and vertical directions) the Dynamis at the control box or I am too far away. For consistently reliably operation I have found that I need to be no more than ~6 feet away from the control box. [There are web post that indicate that maximum IR connection range needs fully charged batteries (~1.5 volts output).] I also put my control box in a convenient central location and turn it to point to the area where I will be working. I am not aware of any way to “fine tune” Dynamis. It is more a matter of becoming familiar with the system through use and finding ways to overcome the limitations of its IR communications. Hope this helps! Bob
