Can anyone tell me why I would need to isolate an engine when installing my decoders (what situations would warrant it)? I have 2 Bachmann Plus F7s that I'm going to install some DZ143's in - which were obviously not made for a decoder. Some I'm hoping the installation goes well. I haven't even pulled the shell to see what I'm in for. Anyone have tips on which tools I should have on-hand while installing? Or other-than tools? Then after I get the hang of it, I'll try them on my GP38's that just came in. Guess I should go read the manual now...
Mike: Make sure that you use Kapton tape to isolate the decoder from the loco frame or you will "blow" out the decoder. Place the tape on the frame where the decoder will rest.
take your time... make sure the motor contacts are properly insulated too, and no sharp solder bits that could poke through the tape.. take your time.. dremel tool = your friend ... to cut back a bit of the weight to make it fit.. i haven't looked under the hood of one of those engines in the long time, but i recall them being a pretty tight fit. take your time.. don't throw it if it goes funky.. i constantly would check frame halves and whatnot when reassembling to make sure they were insolated from each other..
Mike: Here is a photo of a Lenz 521 decoder installation in the LL 2-8-8-2. The Digitrax DZ 143 is very similar to the Lenz 521 but smaller. Notice how the Kapton tape is placed between the loco frame and decoder. Work slowly and take your time. Have fun!!
can someone elaborate (with pictures if possible) what the contacts and brushes are in/on the motor - so I know what to look for any schematics would help too
