0-6-0 Saddle Tank Steam Engine

shortpainter Sep 11, 2020

  1. CNE1899

    CNE1899 TrainBoard Member

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    ubiminor,
    That is great! Thanks for posting.
     
  2. shortpainter

    shortpainter TrainBoard Member

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    I finally got my brass saddle tank 0-6-0 from Shapeways. The good news is the shell fits as expected. The bad news is one of the holes for the piston rod is not there. I could try to drill it out but that's a lot of brass to dig out. My concern is how often this will happen. I could put this design up on the store but will others have the same issue? Was this just bad luck? What do you guys think?

    IMG_2560.jpg IMG_2563.jpg
     
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  3. Kurt Moose

    Kurt Moose TrainBoard Member

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    That turned out nice, well with the exception of the missing hole. (y)

    Hard to drill that out?
     
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  4. CNE1899

    CNE1899 TrainBoard Member

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    I say go ahead! For those who need or wish to, you can go in at an angle, from the bottom, with a dremel.
    Looks pretty damn good! My dad is gonna love this!
     
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  5. rvn2001

    rvn2001 TrainBoard Member

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    That looks GREAT! Could you eliminate that piece and use the piece that's already on the 0-6-0?
     
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  6. CNE1899

    CNE1899 TrainBoard Member

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    rvn2001,
    Marklin usually doesn't have the same simple cylinder used in the US, but you can do that.

    shortpainter,
    Are you willing to separate the cylinders and have them mount as Marklin does?
    That way you get the correct look, but the cylinders can be drilled easier if the holes are partially filled.
    Scott
     
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  7. rvn2001

    rvn2001 TrainBoard Member

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    ...or perhaps just cover what is already there...
     
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  8. ubiminor

    ubiminor TrainBoard Member

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    I guess that the wax print got wrong. That can happen especially with deep blind holes.
    You could consider making through holes.
    These have less chances of going wrong. Even when one does, it would be easy for the modeller to open it, drilling from the front.
    For the finished model one could just close the front holes with solder or a small disk of brass sheet.
    Ciao
    G.
     
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  9. Chris333

    Chris333 TrainBoard Supporter

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    I would mold the cab door grabs into the body instead of having then stand away. This is Z after all. ; )
     
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  10. shortpainter

    shortpainter TrainBoard Member

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    I can adjust the model to make room for a plastic clip that replaces the Marklin cylinders. I think Ubiminor's idea about making the hole go all the way through will prevent this type of print error. It would be very easy to close up the hole using any method the modeler comes up with.
     
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  11. shortpainter

    shortpainter TrainBoard Member

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    Agreed. I will change them to "surface detail" since two of them broke and the other two were bent. I should have all the fixes done in a couple days.
     
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  12. CNE1899

    CNE1899 TrainBoard Member

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    shortpainter,
    ubiminor's suggestion is the approach my dad and the person casting took when they were creating initial parts for RLWs steam locomotive initial castings.
     
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  13. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    For me It's easy enough to drill out those holes if they end up filled. I would use a small carbide burr instead of a drill, and careful control to prevent bit wander. A Burr will cut through like butter with minimal heat where a drill bit will be slower going with more heat. Also, with a burr you can make the opening rectangular, like it should be.
     
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  14. Curn

    Curn TrainBoard Member

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    Really nice! Marklin should have done this 20 years ago.
     
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  15. ZFRANK

    ZFRANK TrainBoard Member

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    Yes, that might be hard to drill out. I did drill out my SW1200 headlights using a hand vise. Took quite some time and lot of drills. And be careful the your drill doesn't get stuck..

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn ANE-LX1 met Tapatalk
     
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  16. ZFRANK

    ZFRANK TrainBoard Member

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    That shell looks, great. Hardly any printing artifacts.

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn ANE-LX1 met Tapatalk
     
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  17. shortpainter

    shortpainter TrainBoard Member

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