Some progress on some bash projects... Turning a Kato 1950's era steel-sided caboose into a wood-sided caboose more representative of the 1930's era: Converting a Bachmann 2-6-2 locomotive shell into something kinda'sorta resembling a GN A-9 0-6-0 switcher, using part of the original shell over-which styrene is added to form a new boiler & smoke box, with other [poorly fabricated] details applied:
Ok, so now we all are wondering how you achieved the wood siding on the steel caboose??? Inquiring minds would like to know. And the steam, excellent!
@DeaconKC @badlandnp Thank you both for your kind compliments. Alan, Moose fabricated wood plank laminates from styrene and added grab irons made from 0.010" brass wire. If moose-brain can remember, then Moose will work on the roofs a bit more, and perhaps add some details around the windows.
And I was thinking that wood siding would have been scribed directly onto caboose sides. Not added on as a laminated piece. Either way, results are looking good!
Moose briefly turned attention to the SP&S 4-6-0 D-5 tender. The Spectrum 4-6-0's tender is too long for Moose-purposes, so it is being replaced with a relatively short DCC-ready slopeback tender that was kindly donated to Moose by a generous fellow n-scaler. Moose de-soldered the factory wiring from the Spectrum 4-6-0's tender, and soldered in a Digitrax DZ126 and 1k 1/2 watt LED with the replacement tender. Moose has a fear that Moose will cut decoder wires too short, so they always end up too long to fit well into locomotive tenders. Such is the case with this decoder installation. The tender LED seems entirely too bright as well... Moose will need to cut wiring shorter, possibly add a ~ 10k ohm resistor for the tender light, re-solder the wires and test fit the shell again at a later date. The more urgent issue is how to secure the tender LED so that it emits the light only up towards the clear acrylic light post.
Hey Moose, here's a thought. Bondic UV glue. @freddy_fo gave me this idea to try when I was wanting to add the surface mount LED's to U33B's a while back. It seemed to be the ticket, maybe it'll work for you? The Little Rock Line I didn't fill the light tubes as he suggested, but was to just glue them to the back of the fiber optic tubes and later to the back of the glazings on the GP35's. It holds strong, but if needed it will pop off. I had to do this several times until I got the LED positioned properly.
Hmmm, @Allen H , me no understand why no Moose hooves are applauding with glee for help you give Moose. Me wonder if Moose is going to stampede you?
Moose working on a passenger consist for the Vancouver & Victoria Railway... Just out of the paint shops are six passenger cars and an express boxcar:
Nice stuff Moose! That's going to be one nice looking train. I like how you marked the cards with the car types. Guess that is a good way to keep track of what's what when you have that many cars in process at the same time?
@BNSF FAN Thank you very much, good sir! The wee cards make nice tools to hold the models during airbrushing. Originally all the information on car type, primer, paint colors, masking requirements, etc. were listed on the underside of each card. That was a wee bit unruly, so Moose has since transferred all the necessary information to an Excel spreadsheet to track each step in the painting process.
Ack! Moose has been off wandering the woods ... ... ... and muttering under moose-breath at air compressor that is on death's door and acrylic primer that does not consistently adhere to substrate... Moose used to problems with model railroading. Moose have sad life in hobby, probably have sad death from hobby ... But at least there is symmetry... Here's some freight cars that seem okay, so far... EDIT: Moose no know why photos are not showing up in post... Moose sad...
Looking good Moose! Try the Liners from Reaper Miniatures as a primer. Acrylic, several colors and adhere really well. Work well in both my [ancient] Passche and my Badger airbrushes. Easy clean up too.
Thank you, good sir! Moose has been using AK Interactive primer, which is supposed to be a decent primer. Moose wondering: how do you and others prepare the plastic model surfaces before applying the primer?
G'morn, Moose! I usually just wash mine in warm water with Un-scented Dawn dish soap and a soft tooth brush. It must be un-scented, the scented leave some residue. And rinse it well with straight warmer water.
