I was thinking the same. Dunno the cost comparison between trailering an RV and trailering a container (how do they even lift it off your lot?) but the RV could be cheaper too.
Unloading the container. In cases like this, they use a trailer that can tilt like a ramp (think rollback for hauling a broken down car) and slide it right off at the destination.
Depending on the number of miles hauling the RV on a flatbed would end up cheaper that buying a container and then the cost of having it delivered plus the cost of a new layout. I am seeing containers priced from 1900 to 2600 dollars. Does not include shipping charges.
Consider this...how are the RV's axle bearings? Can T.H.E.RV survive being towed for a coupla hundred miles? Darnsight cheaper than flat beds, containers, and anything else that might destroy T.H.E R.R.
All good points... THERR RV is a 1985 model. Like I say...needs a lot of TLC to be 'on the ground' for 864 miles... Will check on flatbed rates to get it there. Will check on container prices there. Looks like Reno NV is the closest place to buy containers. Will check on shipping charges. Will check on local laws if containers can be put on properties Like I say...lots of logistics involved in the whole thing... *sigh*
Every container website i found leads to Reno. I even checked onElko...but the links lead me to the same website. All looks a little fishy. On the bright side...my son is going to be here for Thanksgiving. So I'll see what answers to some questions I have. He can research in and around Winnemucca...as he lives there.
Cool, and if you do move to Winnemucca, I may finally get a chance to meet you. That tends to be our first stop when driving to see our daughter, son-in-law and grandson in Denver.
Not sure they count as a 'structure' so didnt want to post this in the 'Let's see your N STRUCTURE builds' thread. But I thought they where cool enough to post on my THERR RV thread I bought a pack of these clear vinyl 'bumpers'. I also bought a pack of long bamboo skewers. I drilled a hole in the small end of the bumpers and inserted a skewer in each hole. I cut a square of thin basswod and painted it silver. I glued those to the top (large end) of the bumpers. In the end I ended up with 9 tall 'yard lights' for Lucky Penney Yard I have it on my 'To Do List' to see if a can use some thin metal tubing and run a prewired 0402 smd led up to the top of each light. My hope is the led will actually light the clear yard lights. Electric/electronics is not my forte so not quite sure how to wire all 9 of thses lights together and have them work...Time will tell.
Holy imagination Batman! That's beautiful! If you can stick a small SMD LED at the tip of the tube before shoving it into the bumper, I can guarantee that it will a great yard light as the vinyl material of the bumper will disperse it nicely.
SSSssssoooooooooooo...what voltage do the smd leds need to work? Also...I will have 9 yard lights in total. Do I run them in series or parallel ? Like I say...electronics is NOT my forte... I know my LED strip lighting is run off 12v dc...I also notice it has lots of resisitors on it.... Lastly....for now...where is a good place to buy prewired leds ??? .
It isn’t the voltage, so much, as the current that an LED can safely draw. Basically, an LED has a maximum current of 20mA, so with a 12V supply, you limit the current with a 1000 ohm resistor. Increase the value to dim the LED. lots of folks like Richmond Controls for pre-wired LEDs. You can also find them on eBay.
Rick.... Does the resistor go in line with one leg or across both legs ? Also...do u know....with 9 leds in a row...would u connect them in series or parallel?
Resistor goes to one leg, pick one. Each LED has to see the same voltage since each has its own resistor so they are wired in parallel.
I bought some on there but from two different sources. All about the same price. Probably look for the 402's if you need the smallest size, Sumner
Parallel. Each LED "uses" approx 2V, so 9 in a row would "use" 18V of the circuit (so you would need an ~20V power source). In the strip lighting you showed, they are wired in parallel (there are some commercial strips where sets of 3 are wired in series). Of course, in series, if one goes out, they all do.
George, I know that you have seen this image posted on TB previously but here it is again to show a possibility for you. All of these LED's are 3.2v, with no resisitors of any size and powered by one regulated 3v power source. The key here is "regulated" so there are no spikes in voltage as can happen with a normal wallwart. I don't think I can mention the supplier I use, so if you want to check them out just PM me a note. You may be familiar with them. BTW, these LED's have been working for 3-4 years now. Regards, Carl