Flash - thanks for letting me know the manufacturer. And that's a great link. Bookmarked, although I'm no mechanic. Here's the insides with the broken clip-on cover. Mike
Armed with some decent photos of the real thing, I just spent about 2 1/2 hours weathering one of my Athearn blue box GP-9s. I used Jo Sonja's artists acrylics and several small brushes. I didn't like the blue so I set about changing it by mixing up my own concoction of Jo Sonja's Linen, Harbour Blue and Chestnut. Brushed over much of the shell, then smudged about, rubbed and mopped up and thinned with loads of brushed-on water. I didn't really know if it would work. The plan was to disguise any really bad bits with pastels. Photo #1 shows it in a bad light - the blue wasn't quite like that. Dusty grime is Linen, Chestnut, Dark Plum and Charcoal in various mixes. On the model, which appears to have been painted by the previous owner, the walkways and outer sides of the shell below them, including the steps, were all painted blue, but I've never seen one like that so before I could add the grime there I had to alter that too, using Linen, Charcoal and Harbour Blue as a dark bluey-grey mix. When dry, the browny/grey grime was added. I found it helped to brush water over it first, then brush on the grime in one long sweep. I had to do two coats. Trucks were done with mixes of Linen, Dark Plum, Chestnut, Charcoal and some raw umber. Mike
Great job. You have created a sophisticated grimy black! :thumbs_up: I'm going to check these out: Jo Sonja's artists acrylics. I've just started using Windsor and Newton acrylics. These are much better than the 50 cent Delta paints I buy in Hobby Lobby and such.
Hello there. This is my first posting here on the Train Board. I'm learning a lot from the member's postings. In response to the flywheels missing, my old Walther's catalog from 1987 had Athearn engines available with or without flywheels. It's possible that the original owner of these two locos ordered them without the flywheels. I wish I still had that catalog. If memory serves me correct they went for around $25.00?
The work bench I have two NP RS11's that need couplers and MU cables. Two NP GP18's in need of cables. I managed to find a couple of Stewart (Kato drive) F9's and F3's for bargain basement prices that are undec and need NP paint schemes. Time to reactivate the paint booths, guns and start spraying. Considering doing a diarama of the 4th Avenue South side of King Station in Seattle, WA. When I was boy, I was given a cab ride aboard a Northern Pacific High hooded Alco, #602. I'd like to replicate that scene. Also saw NP 2626 leave from that same from location around '57 or '58 on a fan trip. A dream would be to recreate that scene also but first, purchase a #2626 roller-bearing NP Northern... Will travel to Seattle in late August and while I'm there, I'll take plenty of pictures of that scene. Tracks in that area have changed somewhat but the 4th Avenue viaduct and the station itself remains unchanged.
My Work Bench My work bench is busy and covered. I am getting my layout started again after many years in storage, so you can image the things to unbox, assemble, repair and paint. But, I am not discouraged, just take things one step at a time.:thumbs_up:
Latest project off the workbench is this old Rivarossi switcher... It was missing the front railing and coupler so I cut off a step deck with railings from a parts caboose, put a Kadee #148 coupler on it, and glued the whole assembly onto the front of the engine. so now it can push cars around as well as pull them.
LaBelle I have fun with this LaBelle caboose kit. Next steps will be grab irons and other details. Here's my HowTo. Wolfgang
I have a couple of those Proto 2000 locos that suffer from cracked axles. I know the replacement axles are made by Athearn. How is that done?
I made a new winter tree using twigs, pre-painted sisal rope fibres, pre-painted coconut fibres and tea leaves. The fibres were twisted into clumps. It helps to have some PVA glue on your fingers while doing that. I glued on a couple of extra branches. The end of the branch and the target area on the trunk were shaved flat before gluing. I didn't worry about the excess glue because it adds texture, and it all has to be painted anyway.
The base of the trunk was fattened with the glue I used - Selley's All Fix which is like a thick paste. I don't know what the US equivalent would be. It was all painted with acrylics. PVA glue was dabbed on and it was dipped into dried tea leaves. Mike
I had fun today with a hopper that was included in the Bachmann train set I bought at a flea market a couple of weeks ago. Let's say that if it were a pair of jeans, it could be defined as "distressed"...
More work with my LaBelle caboose kit. Next step, next paint: railings, roof and some weathering. :angel: Wolfgang
The Athearn gear sets work OK and are the same ratio and size of the Proto,the hole is too small in the proto ones therefore it stretches the gear past the elastic phase and eventually they crack.NWSL make milled gears to suit which I have been using and haven't had any more trouble.Kinda pricey though Cheers
