The best way to find out is to just try it. I prefer MDF for the tops for two reasons: a) it is absolutely flat and stable and b) the density helps with sound deadening. On most of my modules, that isn't an issue since they have at least one layer of extruded foam. On the current module, that isn't the case since I'm mounting switch machines and don't want the extended throw that a layer of foam would cause. Since these modules never leave the house (well, unless they go to the garage or backyard for some "dirty" scenery work), the weight hasn't been an issue.
Sound: FWIW, on the layout about to be dismantled, I found that trains were significantly quieter on 3/4" plywood than on 2" foam. Nevertheless, I plan to use your formula, with 1" foam for lower elevations and either 2" or 3" for the higher elevations.
Great idea, and tutorial also. Thanks for sharing. And I agree you have good woodworking skills. Keep the progress pics coming I'm quite interested to follow your project. Thanks
Don't forget the turkey farm! Just a little east of where you are modeling is Waterman and the Ho-Ka Turkey Farm. IIRC the facility is on the south side of the track. There may be a feed dealer/grain elevator. I don't know if in times past, the birds could have been shipped by rail into the city? It would be something different to add to your layout! I've been on that road a few times. I figure a barn with a bunch of white birds would do the trick.
You have a good memory Glenn. I thought the Ho-Ka sign would be an easy addition along the highway at some point, so I made sure to get a good photo of it. Ho-Ka turkeys used to be sold in nice corrugated cardboard boxes with attached hinged lids. They were very common storage devices in our basement, attic, garage, etc.
Do you do anything special with the wall brackets or simple drop the box on them? Visited a layout (HO) this past weekend that had a long shelf run on one side. Wall brackets topped with a 1x3 and then pink foam glued to the 1x3. About 8" wide allowing a double-tracked (DL&W) ROW, fully scenicked. Fascia attached to the ends of the 1x3's. Imagining the opportunity a similar arrangement would offer in N gets the juices flowing.
Nothing special other than occasionally sliding a shim under the front, back or both to make the modules align perfectly. In the mass-production, tract housing world in which we live, even if the mounting holes for the shelf brackets are perfectly lined up, the variations in the walls (flatness, variations from perfectly vertical, etc.) result in slight variations in the shelf brackets. I can't remember if I mentioned this previously, but my modules are 11" wide sitting on 12" shelf brackets. The nominal 1/2" clearance front and back allows them to "float" as necessary to align with each other and fit the room. With that amount of clearance, I've never had a problem.
Love the idea and thread...just read it all. Did I miss details on the wall mounting? I saw it mentioned here and there but nothing too detailed or pictures. If I'm wrong let me and I'll re-read. Great stuff!
Dave - you're correct in that I haven't posted much info regarding the wall mounting. The modules rest on 12" metal shelf brackets (think Home Depot - slotted vertical uprights screwed into the wall with the metal brackets inserted into a pair of slots at the desired height). You can see the ends of several of the brackets in the following photo. Those shelves below the modules are resting on the same types of brackets. If you go back and look at the underside of the corner module when it was under construction, you'll see that it is designed so as to rest on a 12" bracket even where the module becomes wider in the corner.
Great thread. I was getting ready to build a new wall in my trainroom as the cinder blocks are not square. Using the shelf brackets will help me get around that problem. Thanks and you have a great layout.
What does the shelving do at your door? I bet you don't even have a door as it would open into the room.
That's a good question Dave. I dug up the following photo, which is very old, that shows how the room's door doesn't interfere with my shelf layout. I don't like posting photos of those original unfinished modules with the exposed pink foam. My first iteration of the layout involved a complete loop (four corners, two 4' straights and two 6' straights) of unfinished modules (box, foam, track) just to prove in the concept and allow some trains to run. Rather than finishing those with scenery, I've just been making new modules from scratch and disposing of the originals. They function great, but I've found it easier as I plan each module more specifically to just build from scratch. The second photo shows another view of how the modules rest on standard shelf brackets.
That's a lot of weight/space with no support. Does that corner module extend out to either side to compensate? I guess you could have a support beam of 2x4 or something going from stud to stud... And I'd say don't shy away from showing any pictures with the initial modules. I think you made it pretty clear that they were made from the beginning with the intention of being redone. Anyway, your methods have definitely got me thinking, and other than the issues of the door and making sure the room is usable for other purposes it's a no brainer. I hadn't thought of this before. But your methods allow you to change things up quite considerably. Assuming you were done with all your sections, you could continue to make more matching the same dimensions and switch them out from time to time so it's almost like you have 2 different layouts! Another question, the module in the picture with an Amtrak train on it, is that one you consider an original or your 2nd generation. I know the picture is from far away but if that's your "throw away" scenery, wow. I hope mine is half as good, haha. Anyway, please please keep us updated!
[famous last words]Don't worry Dave, I'm an engineer by profession.[/famous last words] But seriously, that corner along with the rest of the wall mounting is way over-engineered. The modules themselves form a very strong, rigid structure once they are bolted together. I could probably remove two thirds of my shelf brackets and nothing would happen. It may not be clear from the photo, but there is a substructure under the module to the right (in front of the closet doors). It is another wood "box," comprised of 1 x 4's resting on the shelf brackets. It extends to support both corner modules on that end of the room as well as providing support across a six foot gap where the closet doors are. I think those shelf brackets are rated at 80 pounds each and all three of the modules probably don't exceed the capacity of a single bracket. Yep, that has been in my mind since the beginning. I think that is one of the big advantages of any of the modular layout approaches. You're very kind. That is actually the only one of my original eight modules that I applied scenery to. It will be discarded at some point, although I may replicate the track-along-the-river-with-bluffs feel on a future module. The Burlington Route had many great scenes like that along the Mississippi River between Savanna, IL and the Twin Cities. Their marketing slogan was "where nature smiles for 300 miles!"
Keep going! Your articles are very informative and well written. I have been wrestling with a problem of construction for my HO layout. The width you are using is a little small for HO but the basic concepts still hold true. I will need to find a different mounting system for my 24 inch widths. The same basic box system will be used. I have been building boxes similar to yours with different materials for some time. My modules will be 12 to 24 inches wide and 4 to 6 feet in length. Please keep up the articles!
I have a question for Jack: I'm tempted to go without a separate Masonite piece, like in this picture: What can I expect to have to deal with if I go without? (In other words, why did you feel the necessity for a separate end piece?)
