Wiring the MTL Turnouts

Everything I have read about wiring is to ALWAYS use feeder(s) to each track section. This would imply that there should be a number of wires going to various parts of the new MTL turnouts.

Does anyone have a few photos of a turnout properly wired to support DCC and/or analog. Using my trusty "short circuit" buzzer makes it appear that there is electrical contact taking place within the turnout, but I would assume one should NOT rely upon these contacts only.

Any help or thoughts would be appreciated.

...don

 

Yes, there should be numerous power feeds to each and long sections in a layout. While long sections can easily run our low power trains, it is still best to have multiple feeders per long setion, say every 3' or so.

As for the turnouts, DCC or DC, there should be power feeders around it any way, just like any other section of track. As for power routing, DC would have the same problem as DCC: if you run into the frog end of the turnout while it is reversed, you run into a short. So, either don' t do it or provide small isolated blocks before it that are power routed. Hopefully their turnout control will have that simple contact on it, otherwise you'll have to either wire your own block control or use someone elses turnout control.

No issues are there for DC or DCC it you run through the points as they lead you to the correct direction and therefore polarity, unless it is a DC reversing loop.

 

I started asking about this in Robert's other topic on the turnout testing, and I'm really considering rewiring the turnouts to act as power routing switches too. I hate to admit that I'm not using my Micro Track to build a real layout... I was planning on just setting up a desktop layout for my office for Christmas (with a small tree) and a siding so I can run two trains.

I'm looking for a neat and easy way of powering one siding while isolating the other using electrical contacts in the turnout. I think I can isolate the diverging ends of one turnout completely and then jumper wire the frog power to the inner rails that connect to the frog on the other turnout and that should work. One side of the siding will have two rails powered with the same polarity (++ or --) and the other will get +/- power.

Looks like I have to disassemble the turnout and clip those U shaped contacts that connect the like-sided rails of the diverging ends of the turnouts and then run small jumpers from the frog power pad to the inner rail remnants of the U shaped contacts.

Works in the cobweb filled corners of my mind.... I'll see if it works in reality!

 

Or you can take out the frog pivot screw, solder a small flexible wire to it and then place the screw back in. Do not solder while the screw in is the turnout !

 

Would anyone have a couple of photos?

 

I don't think I'm going to get to this project until the weekend, but I'll pop a couple photos when I do. Robert posted internal photos in the other topic on turnout testing and it definitely looks like every segment of rail in the turnout itself has power going to it from the internal connections. Other than my goofy ideas about power routing, the turnout looks like it is well designed for electrical continuity and I don't think you need to wire any extra feeders to the turnouts. Sending power to the adjacent track segments should do it.

 

Would appreciate it. I'm a little dumb on the electronics side. I saw Robert's photos but wondered what happens once the circuit board material gets worn and Murphey's law says it will wear. There are several holes in the ROADBED itself [NOT through the ties]. Do these have an intended use for wiring ?? ...don

 

About this turnout: is there an instruction sheet in the package (or on it on the backside) that gives data about wiring and maintenance (I've heard these turnouts are power routing, but without any wiring to comply with, as it's all already factory made)?

Dominique

 

Just put it in, just like a Marklin. Nothing different.