Well I have made a decision to convert all of the internal couplers in a consist to Unimates because of a substanial number of Kato coupler decoupling problems. This is mostly for my passenger set motive power. So the rear couplers on the A units and both couplers on the B units will be changed out. This is totally new ground for me, since I have not ever done this before. I am finished with the acquisition of locomotives and the layout is awaiting the benchwork materials to be delivered. I have almost all my locomotives converted to DCC, and it is now time to go back through and start to fix things while I wait for the other things to come together. I am starting with the couplers because these Kato couplers are just too unreliable. This will next extend into painting handrails and step edges and other levels of additional details. But what good is all the rest of it if the locomotives can't stay coupled? Making the decision and implementing it though, are too different things. I am looking for advice on which Unimates to use. The consists are: F3's F7's PA's E8's I figure that it is either the short or the medium, but I am not sure which. I do not have tight radiuses at all so that is not an issue. So what would be the best combination to use, and what is the best way to change the couplers out too? Thanks!
For looks, go with the short length. You sound as if your curves will handle them fine. They sure do give a nice close coupled look. Back in the day, when these units came with rapidos, we would just replace the rapidos with the unimates. It would take a bit of careful twisting and fidling, but it would fit with no other modifications. BTW, make sure NOT to try twisting them into the pocket by the coupler end! Use a small screwdriver to push the back of the unimate into place in the pocket. Keep the spring in there! Now that Kato has restyled the coupler boxes. I am not so sure how they fit. But others will chime in. Un-related gripe: the new "shock aborbing" trucks make the F - units different heights. I think we could all live without them.
Use short. Note however that real F-units were coupled 3 feet apart, when measured from the ends of the carbodies. Unimates give you 4 feet on some units (such as Intermountain F-units) , but still look a lot better than stock. On my Intermountain F-units, I went with this idea (Rail Line HOn3 couplers in post #7 of this thread http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?t=91084 ). I mount these with the same screw as the standard IM/MT coupler boxes (set back with a piece of brass tubing so the screw doesn't go in too far to push on the inside of the shell and distort the mounting). I can therefore easily switch back and forth between the MT coupler or the Rail Line coupler, depending on whether I want to run AA, AB, ABBA, etc. (You will need some sort of template or jig to ensure that you drill the mounting hole in the correct spot on the coupler bar, and finding this spot initially takes some trial and error...). MH
Early Kato F units came with truck mounted Rapido couplers. These will take a "T" shank Unimate and are a quick install. I do not have any late Kato F units so cannot comment. I use the short couplers on mine but I run Ntrak with minimum of 24" curves. Don't know your radius but try them on crossover using Atlas #4 switches if they handle that they will handle minimum radius [9 3/4"]. If you can, go with the short Unimates. Will make your consist really look good.
The advise, I was all set to give you has already been covered. I'm doing the same thing with a number of my Kato F types. I don't like the distance between the A and B units or LABC for you Santa Fe fans. So they will get the same treatment as you are planning with one exception. I want Micro-trains, Z scale couplers on the lead A unit and the standard N Scale knuckle couplers on the trailing B unit. I prefer the bump and go feature of the MT's. This way only the locomotives in the lash-up require coupling by hand. Just my five cents...inflation sure brings the cost of things up and in the middle of a recession. It ain't over until everybody that lost a job, is back on the job.
I will be doing this on all Kato and IM F units as well as the P and E units. All my turnouts are hand laid using the Fast Tracks syste,. The smallest turnout I use is a #6 in the yard ladder for switcher operations so no a problem there. All industry trackage uses #5 turnouts, again for switcher traffic not these main line consists. The typical main line to passing siding is using #10 turnouts and all crossovers are using #12 turnouts. Branch lines off the main are either #8 or a #9. There are #10 wyes on the main as well. My minimum curvature on the mains line is 28" radius. So I do not think I will see any issues witht he close coupling. I did order a bunch of the short shanks from woo woo woo Keins, looks like I will have to order a few more now. The IM units will be easy to do, it is the Kato units I am mostly worried about. Thanks!
Rick, I have converted the front couplers on the A units to MT already, now I am doing the Unimates to the internal couplers since in my era they always stayed lashed up in the LABC
That be true. Sounds good and you shouldn't have any trouble with them. I bought an early run of Kato, SP, Black Widow, F7's from Tom Stumpf, and he had them lashed-up with the short unimate couplers. That sold me on the idea and I've been switching them over as time allows. I call them my growlers...who needs a sound system when they sound like the real deal. Grin! It looks to be, I will need to put together some T shank MT's for the last locomotive in the lash-up. The ones I have are to long and I may need to order out the short version. Not exactly where I was headed. Still working on it. I might cut off the truck mounted coupler and body mount either the 1015 or 1017. Kind of a pin the tail on the donkey thing. Grin! Let us all know how your project turns out:we2-jimlad:.
If you haven't seen it there's a good pictoral how to on unimate kato F and PA units here. kato_n_scale_unimate_install Photo Gallery by ATSF_Arizona John Sing at pbase.com
Badges? We don't need no badges, man!!!! I am a lifelong advocate of Unimate couplers, and you guys above are talking about these great couplers like they exist, and exist in quantity. Believe me, there is not one hobby shop down here that carries Unimate couplers, and I am to the point of cannibalizing some old projects (which I intend to finish someday) that have Unimate couplers just to swap newly acquired locos with rapido couplers out. So, what is the secret you are keeping from old FloridaBoy, guys, just where are these nuggets of gold? Please let me know before I start attacking some Red Caboose freight car sets I have set aside for future use. I still use a host of other couplers, like MT's, IM's, Atlas's, Walthers', and others, but to me the Unimate are the ultimate strong coupler that matches with them all, and hold up under years of stress. The only coupler I have noticed is almost incompatible are Kato couplers that come with their locos. If'n you guys out there know anywhere I can get a few of these coupler box mount items in the words of the Beach Boys, "Help me Rhonda". I have plenty of body mount Unimates but rarely use them. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman
Well I had a stash of the HOn3/N scale body mounts handy while I wait for the short shanks to come in. So I just finished a ABBB set of Intermountain F7 units with the Unimates and they are so much closer it is rediculous how far apart they started. The IM units are easy, so I will keep plodding along on them until I run out of Unimates or the short shanks come in and I can try changing those out. Thanks All!
Ken, woo woo woo ¤¤¤¤¤s has hundred of packages of the short, n]medium and long Unimates, go to thier site and have a big smile! :tb-biggrin:
M.B. ¤¤¤¤¤ lists 477 packages of the short "T" shank, 158 of the medium and 347 of the long. They also have 324 of the body mount. Apparently I not permitted to list the name of the shop. But it's that N Scale heaven place near Baltimore that has all kinds of woo woo woo.
I have no idea why this fine establishment is being automatically censored here on TB. The answer is yes and they do have Unimate's, in stock at a friendly price. See my signature I will be happy to send you more information should you need it.
only advertisers can be mentioned here or they don't exist. same thing as a bad review from an advertiser--it doesn't exist either--like one advertiser that advertised steep discounts "clearance sale" only to find there prices where higher than other advertisers
Ken, I sent you a private message with a link to a site which has the couplers in stock. It's the site DCESharkman is buying his from.
There is no shortage of Unimate couplers (now Red Caboose) if you go to THE M B PLACE, I have advised their availability on several forums, even a British one that was complaining about lack of availability, it seems to me that people want them, but don't want to know they are available. The only disappointment I currently find with them is that the Body Mount version no longer comes with the coupler box, I use these between most road units where a M/T's 1015 would go as it eliminates false uncoupling completely between multi unit consists as well as nice close coupling. Ted (Teditor) Freeman
