Switches Questions

I hope this question has not been enterd before but I performed a search and did not find any answers. Thanks in advance for helping a new kid with what might be basic questions. These questions could fall into layout also.

I need help understandind the difference between Atlas HO switches Code 83. What is the main difference between a basic snap switch, a #6, and a #8? How do I find the degrees they exit at? I will be working with 22" and 24" radius. Which will give me 2" centers when I run a parrell track?

Second, where do I mount an undermount switch on a plywood base with 4" of foam? Under the plywood or inside the foam? How does a tortoise switch do this with a long arm?

I am in the planning stage and I am working with a 5' X 10" layout. Which switches are best for main line and the switching area?

Thanks for your help in advance.

Dave
davegates@cox.net

 

Dave,

You might have a bit of a problem with the depth you are talking about. Why so much foam (4"), especially since you have a plywood base? Are you using the foam to change track elevation as compared to using the cookie-cutter method with risers?

If you must go through 4 1/2" plus, you are going to need to replace the throw wire that comes with the Tortoise with some heavier music wire. Music wire is much stiffer. You will also have to figure out how to drill a hole through that much depth. In my installations I normally only have to deal with 1" of depth, 1/2" of plywood and 1/2" of homasote.

Let us know how you resolve the problem.

David

 

Thanks for the feedback. What is your definition of cookie cutter with risers? I wanted to build a bridge which crossed a river thus 3" of foam. Would I be better off cutting out my plywood base and creating the river. I was using the river in the Turtle Creek Layout as an example in Model Railroader. The layout is 5' X 10' square.

Any feedback would be great.

Thanks,

Dave

 

Hi Dave-

I would get rid of the plywood altogether. It's not necessary for supporting the foam if you have cross braces under it every 2 feet or so. I have 2" thick foamboard that supports 95% of my layout surface.

I put up some pics of the construction phase of my layout at: http://www.daveheinzel.com/trains/index.html (click on LAYOUT CONSTRUCTION). Maybe that can be of some help.

You'll also see how I mounted the switch machines under the tracks in a way that gives you access to them underneath the layout. I used Atlas remote switches, but you should be able to use tortoise machines in about the same way.

Also, if you plan on having a river that goes deeper than the foamboard your layout is on, plan for this in the beginning and then don't have any crossbraces underneath that part of the layout so that once you cut out the foam where the river is, you have an empty hole straight to the floor. Then you can use more foam (I used half inch) to build down from the underneath side of your main foam. You can connect these pieces with elmer's glue and screws.

Hope this helps. I would mainly encourage you to not have plywood because of how many times you will need to drill through it when wiring certain things like tracks and lights. Foam's easy because you can just kinda poke a hole through it with a small brass tube or something of that sort.

 

Thanks Dave,

I enjoyed watching the progression of your layout on your website. I have bookmarked it and will continue to check in. It gave me some good ideas. It is also a nice website and good quality pictures. Looks like you have a knack for photos and web design.....

Thanks for the ideas and if you any websites bookmarked that show great 4' X 8' Layouts please forward to me at:

davegates@cox.com