Seeking advice on HO layout plan

v_z_gK_Z_289333312 Nov 11, 2018

  1. v_z_gK_Z_289333312

    v_z_gK_Z_289333312 TrainBoard Member

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    My era is roughly 1967, a portion of some unknown local line serviced by New York Central.

    I am modeling in HO for a variety of reasons (easier operations, my kids love the size). I really want to get into shunting puzzles and operations. I have somewhat limited space for this layout - it's going to be in the corner of our spare bedroom which also serves as my home office.

    A 4'x8' layout technically would fit, but it would have to be shoved into the corner and I'd be unable to reach the track along the walls. I thought about doing a donut layout where I'd duck under the benchwork into an "operating" hole cut into the middle of the plywood, but that sounds tiring. A 4'x8' also would jut out into the room a fair bit. Rounding the two exposed sharp plywood corners off into curves might solve this a bit, but it'd still be rather dominating.

    So I'm pretty sure I need to give up on trying to have continuous running of trains for this layout. I could always keep a unitrack loop stored away, ready to snap together on the dining room table for the kids. I snapped together a stretch of unitrack on my workbench, and I was surprised how much interest my youngest had in maneuvering the locomotive back and forth, because I let her speed up the controls, slow down the controls, then toggle the reverse switch and speed up again. A loop doesn't have that kind of interactivity.

    Anyway, the image on the post is my current (loosely held plan). Does anyone have any advice? Any pitfalls I should be aware of?

    The main feature of the layout is an industry spur which is an Inglenook puzzle. A random 5-car train (of 40' boxcars) would have to be assembled on this spur before going back onto the main line.

    One downside I see is that, due to the space of my layout, I can't really bring the train anywhere else, or even really bring it onto the main line.

    Does anyone have any resources, tips, or hints for these kind of shallow-depth operational HO layouts? I really like the idea of the Inglenook puzzle. From what I've read, it's more realistic than a timesaver puzzle (more likely to encounter a constrained shunting situation like an Inglenook in real life).

    However, I would hate to dedicate this kind of effort into a layout and have it just become boring due to lack of options. Also, I'd hate to feel stuck by not being able to extend my layout at all.

    Thanks for any tips!
     
  2. acptulsa

    acptulsa TrainBoard Member

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    Kids do like continuous running.

    Do you know what a 'dogbone' layout is? It's basically a loop that's squeezed together in the middle so the two long sides of the loop are close enough together to form a double track. It allows a long continuous run in limited space because the long middle can be as narrow as six inches--just wide enough for double track. The ends could be 4x6. That is still a lot of space, but they can be trimmed into a teardrop shape. And you can put your 'puzzle' sidings in the middles of two end loops.

    Many people put one loop by a closet door, and the other by the entry door. If those doors are on the same wall, that's nearly a full donut but with no need to duck under.

    Also, don't forget the age-old technique of setting up bunk beds, and replacing the top bunk with a 4x8. Think of it as the perfect canopy bed for a boy.

    Worked for me when I was a kid.
     
  3. BarstowRick

    BarstowRick TrainBoard Supporter

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    A switching layout would keep me busy for hours...until I tired of it. Most youngsters as well as us big kids like to see trains run. An Around the room shelf layout might be the answer. Downside not everyone has room for such. A 4x8 layout with a roundy-round will work for awhile but leave most us kids wishing for more. You know the more syndrome.

    You need to start somewhere and this layout is a great starting point and can be expanded on. The first layout will always be a teaching layout. The layout will teach you what you need to learn. Never mind the fun you can have in the meantime. But be careful here fun, usually comes with the feared learning curve as in, "What's the catch?" There always is one. Not everything goes together as smoothly as you might anticipate. Snap track isn't snap track and the rail joiners may cause some frustrations for a youngster never mind us adults.

    I love switching layouts, making switch moves and shoving or spotting cars at various industries. Then go back to make the pull, taking them back to the yard to be spotted on the ready track for the next train through, to pick them up. So, I'd suggest going ahead with the switching layout and then see what if anything you can do to expand it.
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2018
  4. bremner

    bremner Staff Member

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  5. v_z_gK_Z_289333312

    v_z_gK_Z_289333312 TrainBoard Member

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    I did consider a dogbone layout. It's not out of the question, but I had real trouble designing a dogbone with Kato HO Unitrack pieces (what I'm using) that could also fit my Inglenook. Do you have any pointers for how to design a dogbone using Kato HO unitrack?

    This is definitely my overall goal. I'm pretty much starting with the Inglenook first, but I definitely want to design this in such a way that I could plug it into any further layout expanding I do. Ideally, I would like to design in such a way that a second module could take trains from the Inglenook and run them in some kind of continuous loop for the kids.

    I am thinking about making the "mainline" be a 3.5'x3.5' module containing a tight 19.5" radius loop (Kato GP35 can run on down to 18" radius), but I do think this would look way less prototypical. But maybe I should think about not caring that much if it'd make the kids happier.
     
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  6. BarstowRick

    BarstowRick TrainBoard Supporter

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    upload_2018-11-11_13-27-52.png

    I'm not the a fore mentioned person. Not meaning to jump in to things here but the image above is what we've traditionally called a dog bone layout. Looks like a dog bone.

    Most of the layouts I build are a modified version of this idea. Your switching layout would fit right in.

    I hope that helps.
     
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  7. v_z_gK_Z_289333312

    v_z_gK_Z_289333312 TrainBoard Member

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    I really like the dogbone approach, but I think I'd prefer more of a modified dogbone where the layout can form a U because the "rear" of the dogbone is flat and follows the wall.

    I also really don't think this wall I have in mind has enough space for a dogbone even with the tightest curves. But for the future, if I can hook my layout into a dogbone, it might be helpful...
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2018
  8. acptulsa

    acptulsa TrainBoard Member

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    They work really, really well in a room where the entry door is exactly four feet from the corner, and the closet door is on the same wall exactly four feet from the other corner.

    The challenge is finding a house with that room in it.
     
  9. traingeekboy

    traingeekboy TrainBoard Member

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    I would build 2 layouts -- Actually that is what I am doing.

    Layout #1
    Since you have kids, they love to watch the trains go around and around. Make a 4x6 layout with an oval and passing tracks. No scenery, just something to run trains on. Do not put legs on the board, just frame it, and play with it on the floor. This way when it is not being used you lean it against the wall under layout #2.

    It could be something like this: https://shop.atlasrr.com/p-44177-ho-4-twice-around-in-4-x-6-.aspx

    or this: https://shop.atlasrr.com/p-44176-ho-3-up-and-over-in-4-x-6-.aspx

    Layout #2
    This is Dad's super detailed shelf and display layout. It allows for realistic switching operation. It has structure kits and scenery. When no one is looking dad can also get out the kids layout and run roundy roundy. ;)
     
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  10. traingeekboy

    traingeekboy TrainBoard Member

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    I am in design mode for my own small layout. So I am thinking a lot about similar things. I;m more of a runner, so I will be making some kind of mainline oval. yet some concepts apply to all smaller layouts.

    Other considerations in making a layout:

    - the time period you have chosen means you can have 40 foot cars and smaller locos.
    - a lot of us use what is easy to get in the local shops, but for a small switching layout you can use Y switches and no.2 switches that are shorter.
    - a bigger problem will be how to fit your structures on the layout. Plan for the spaces required by structure kits.
    - one of the best methods for designing small railways is to actually use real track and just keep laying it out till you get what you like.
     
  11. Mr. Trainiac

    Mr. Trainiac TrainBoard Member

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    I would definitely look at your walls to see where to add a layout. I know in your first post, you said it was going to be in your office, but you might be able to make some kind of U shaped layout. You can have the L shape like your original plan, and add a peninsula if you have room. That could add a few more industries to switch at.
     

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