My wife and I have finished (negotiations) on how much layout space I can use for my layout 2'x24'. I'm not complaining and I'm more that happy with it. I was considering going to HO with a larger area but now I'm set in N. I'm considering making my bench work 2'x18' or 3'x18' if I could make it moveable by rolling it out away from the wall. I figure it would give me 36+ ft linier running instead of 24'. Has anyone done or seen anything like this? I don't want to make it so I would have to move it away from the wall in sections then connect it. I want to move it as a whole. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks Lucas Barnlund Sitka, Alaska
Lucas: The JJJ&E is situated so I can access one side that's about two feet from a long wall. That side is 12 feet long. I can access all sides of the JJJ&E which is now an inverted "U". The benchwork isn't moveable. Stay cool and run steam.....
I'm not clear on what you are trying to accomplish. If you have a 2ft X 24 ft space to use, how can you make it bigger by pulling it out from the wall? I suggest sectional or modular. If you have four tables 2 ft X 6 ft, and bolt them together or clamp them together, you could probably roll the whole thing around without taking it apart.
Conrad, I figure if I can pull it away from the wall I could put a backdrop down the middle and operate the layout from both sides giving me a little more layout length. I will make my bench work modular. I sectional or modular I just don't want to have to take all the sections apart and move them individually every time I want to move my layout against or away from the wall. Lucas
Lucas, It is possible to make the entire bench move as one unit. But; if you would be willing to build the benchwork where the track and scenery is mounted as modular units, many more possibilities will be available for you. For instance, using standard practices for building the moduals in sections as small as 18" by 36" will allow you to rearange your layout just like shuffling a deck of cards. If you were to build with 18" by 36" modules, you could complete the first one or two and be up and running in no time. Later when time allows, the remainder of the modules could be constructed individualy or all at once. Once enough modules are completed to the point where they can be assembled into a 24' long by 36" wide unit, then it can all be mounted (One module at a time) on a mobile base unit. The real benifit of using the modular method is portability! You can dissasemble the units for movement and put them back together in almost any order you choose. For information on the various methods of building a mobile base for a model railroad, you should consult with a local cabinet maker. If you are not able to do this, contact me off line. I would be happy to help you design your bench so that you get the benifits of real mobility both in your present home and wherever else you may choose to move the model to. GM
Lucas, I have a 4 x 8 layout that is on wheels. I keep it in the corner of the Garage so that my mother can keep he r car in it. When I want to work on it all I have to do is move the car out and wheel it out so that I can reach all sides.There are eight legs and each one has a wheel. Alan
Two feet is a nice depth for a scene. I would avoid going for one foot scenes divided by a view block, as it really is not that much even in N scale. The one thing you have going for you is twenty four feet of run. If you do it as a long oval of sorts, you can have it cross over itself at different levels and even put some reverse loops in, You should have an awesome layout. As someone else mentioned, you should consider doing it in modular sections just in case you have to move it some where. 2x4 foot sections would be easy to move. Even 2x6 would be easy to move.
For the moveable layout, you will need to have a really smooth and level floor where the layout goes. Figure out how much the thing is going to weigh total so you know you can shove it around. Even with track/scenery on top of an extruded styrofoam base, say you added 3 lbs/linear ft just for that on the 3'x18' -- that's 54 lbs more you have to shove around. You could motorize the whole with the wheels in trackway if you had to. You can build modular-style and screw/bolt each section together for the whole. Cut wiring and track/scenery, unscrew at the junctions and you can take the sections with you if you move. You will have to plan somewhat fairly equal weight distribution over the length. In any case, a layout that size will probably have some degree of flex (even smaller modules do) which could be fatal to scenery and wiring with frequent moves. You couldn't keep the cars on the layout when moving it, most likely. If one-sided/against the wall and running point-to-point, with just one loop (actually 1 1/2 loops) at one end and 8' at either end of that loop section all at 1 1/2% grade (I avoid 2% if I can help it; forget a helix), you can rise about 5" (good visual separation), running along the wall and crossing over the lower level end at spots (if you wanted). Also, depending on table height you may not want to use the full potential 3' depth in all places. If you are set on the two-side plan then you will need some linear view blocks like mountains or hills, dense stands of trees, something to break up the long length into scenes. You might want it anyway. Even if you model the plains area then that would still be advised so you don't die of boredom.
