Printing vehicles and figures

Stephane Savard Feb 17, 2019

  1. Onizukachan

    Onizukachan TrainBoard Supporter

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    I didn’t realize they were 3D printed, I thought they were injection molded... well done!
     
  2. VinceP

    VinceP TrainBoard Member

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    Only problem with me is the truck cabs i'm after are not your everyday trucks, as in Marmon, Diamond Reo, Hayes, Oshkosh, and such
     
    tracktoo likes this.
  3. RailMix

    RailMix TrainBoard Member

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    Sound like you've got good taste in trucks. Wouldn't be a problem if you could find a prototype or even a larger scale model to work from. Also, I'd check to see if any of these companies bought cabs from other manufacturers. That might make things easier.
    Actually, I'm really jealous of some of you guys. I've had my Anycubic for about 3 weeks now, but have been tied up with work and infuriating problems with a dishwasher installation, so have not been able to do more than inspect it. BTW, I use Autodesk Fusion 360 for modeling. It's not bad.
     
  4. IronPenguin

    IronPenguin TrainBoard Member

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    Well...
    Those are actually models I did myself and sell prints of on my website, so I'm afraid I really can't give them to you. Since they are fairly basic shapes, you could use Tinkercad to do versions of your own and learn that software, too.
     
  5. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    Found that thread on the railwire and went through it, very interesting information! Never knew that forum even existed either.

    So apparently the little n scale figure I printed could be much better considering what I saw in that thread. Not sure if it's the 3d file or print settings that limited my print, will need to try again!

    So far I've only been using STL files off thingiverse and editing those in meshmixer. Though I have installed fusion 360 and plan to start tutorials on that soon. Then I just need a little subject to try modeling for the first time, something not too much easy nor too difficult.
     
    SLSF Freak likes this.
  6. tracktoo

    tracktoo TrainBoard Member

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    I participate in that thread pretty extensively. Maybe you recognized some of the pictures.:) Quite a few participate on both of these boards.
     
  7. jonrail

    jonrail New Member

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    Love the translucent green.
    It's like your printer is Green Lantern's ring willing things into existence.
     
    BNSF FAN likes this.
  8. Stephane Savard

    Stephane Savard TrainBoard Member

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    Still printing various vehicles with the printer. I was worried that the resin would get really expensive, but so far I'm still using the original 250ml that came with the printer. With this I've printed the Anycubic lattice cube, two fleetmaster semis, two 53' containers (one failed), one 53' trailer chassis, three bulldozers, a grand cherokee, and a volkswagen transporter. I also have another container, two vehicles and another semi printing right now (this time at 50 micron thickness to compare). That resin goes a long way!

    So what I really wanted to show off here are those two vehicles, the Jeep Grand Cherokee and the Volkswagen Transporter van. These I printed again at n-scale and 20 micron layer thickness. The layers are highly visible in the photos because of the light, and I wonder how they will show once painted.

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    All files were downloaded from Thingiverse.

    I'm a bit nervous to paint these, I used to paint dungeon and dragon miniatures about 20-25 years ago with testors enamels and haven't really painted much else at this scale in a very long time!
     
  9. tracktoo

    tracktoo TrainBoard Member

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    Spray them. If you have an airbrush, all the better. If not just use spray bombs but make sure to go light and spray from a distance and to a plan. Shooting from four corners and at an angle that makes sense for the part's shape, rotating in quadrants as you go, affords decent coverage with each quadrant overlapping the previous slightly and from another angle, helping to get full coverage in all of the nooks and crannies. Following this procedure, lay down a complete light coat and then let that sit for fifteen minutes or so. If you didn't get 100% perfect coverage but at least some, that's fine for this coat. It starts to dry and gives some tooth for the finish coat to grip without running.

    Tamiya makes a decent primer and will accept any finish paint I've ever tried, acrylic or solvent based. It dries pretty quick and is easily sanded.
     
    Stephane Savard likes this.

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