Hi everyone. I'd like to replace the trucks on all of my N scale rolling stock with Micro-Trains trucks. Originally I was just going to replace the couplers with MT Magne-Matic couplers, however being relatively new to the hobby, the process of assembling and attaching the couplers (and doing it properly) seemed a little daunting to me, so I've decided to just go ahead and add MT trucks where the couplers are already pre-assembled and ready to go. Micro-Trains does have the conversion charts to show which couplers and/or trucks to use with which manufacturer and product, however I can't find specifics for much of my rolling stock on their charts. The only car for which I've found specific information is my Kato BethGon Coalporter which can use MT's #1030 truck. However, I also have some Atlas Trainman, Bachmann, Walthers, and Model Power rolling stock which I'd like to convert but which aren't listed on any of their conversion charts, so I really don't know which trucks to buy. It looks like MT's #1035 truck is listed frequently for Atlas rolling stock, but without my specific cars listed, is there any way for me to know for sure? Also, I noticed in the conversion charts that truck replacement numbers aren't listed for some of the cars and rolling stock. Does this mean that there are some cars and rolling stock that can't be converted to any of MT's trucks? Thanks in advance to anyone who might be able to help!
Overall, any truck will fit any car........but just because it fits doesn't mean it's "correct". There have been a number of different truck designs used by prototype railroads over the years. Due to the huge number of cars coming out, it's pretty hard for MT to keep their charts totally updated. I don't have a MT chart handy, but for modern cars, your biggest factor is 70 ton or 100 ton trucks, and what length the couple is. You could probably just buy some 1030's and 1035's and use whichever matches the trucks you are taking off the cars. I believe (but don't quote me) that the 1030 equals a 100 ton truck and the 1035 is a 70 ton truck. If you want to be 100% true to the prototypes, you might provide a list of cars you want to convert.......I'm sure someone here can tell you what truck to buy.
Depends upon the age of your rolling stock. I certainly would not spend the time and effort to just change the couplers, so good decision there. Some of the older stuff has different mounting pins than we most commonly see today. And also the bolster to bolster areas were somewhat different. Making conversions a chore and some were not really possible at all. If your cars are more current issue, there should be few troubles. I would suggest trying to keep the coupler shank length to the shortest option possible.
There's generally nowhere near the problem on cars as on locomotives, particularly compared to the 'old days'. Many of the newest cars have MT-compatible couplers on them anyway, which will work, as long as you're not trying to actually delay-uncouple. There's always the oddballs. Old Con-cor cars have a big hole in the bolster so there used to be a huge washer insert thing to fit (included). Some cars need a washer to hold the car higher to clear the box, included. You'll find a few that really test your patience (old Rapido stuff, Lima) and pretty much require a scratchbuilt bolster. But the majority of Atlas, Rapido, Trix, etc., etc., are just a pull truck, replace, and adjust pin deal. I've taken this approach to a roster of about 250-300 cars over time. I think I probably have fewer than 20 body-mounts. I'll pay attention to whether or not a car should have a roller bearing or conventional friction bearing truck (I model the 70's) but that's about where it stops. I admire anybody that can spot the difference between a 70-ton and 100-ton truck in N scale, heck, i have to check stenciling to make sure on the real thing. If you are using Atlas Code 55 beware that many (or most)of the dealer stock of MT trucks may have the deep 'pizza cutter' flanges that hit the spike heads. You either need to buy the new wheels, metal wheels, or buy newest stock with the thinner flanges. The shank length (regular or medium) is pretty car specific. There are some more modern cars, particularly modern era boxcars - that need the medium shank so having a couple pairs of those handy is a good idea, but again, that's a minority. And there are some cars that trust me, you'll conclude just have to have body mounts, for me it was the caboose fleet I built.
We constantly recommend that customers bring the car in with them so we can get them the correct truck for the car in question. The old 1035 is the 100T truck and the 1030 is the 70-ton truck. However since many more modern cars have cushioned draft gear the longer versions of these may be necessary to more accurately model the prototype. Going short shank is not always the best answer.
One of the problems with standard N scale couplers is the size. They are simply oversized. Think about pre-made Z scale body mount couplers for a better look. Rest assured they are every bit as strong as the N scale couplers and they come in one size and shape.
The 1035 looks like a 100T, however it also is a 70T truck, The 1030 is a 50T. As mentioned before, the 1030 is 50 and 1035 is 70T, MT does not make a 100T truck. Both of these trucks use 33in wheels, where 100T trucks use 36in wheels. I've used 1035s as place in's for 100Ts, as they look similar to 100T trucks. For me, the biggest issue is the cars I really need 100T trucks on, are coal hoppers and grain hoppers, and there is no easy way to body mount couplers to use Atlas or BLMA 100T trucks on.
Ike, you've got much bigger issues than that. Much bigger.... BTW, if you get yourself down around Hill AFB, PM me. Like you, I've moved.
If you're mostly into modern stuff, I found that the 1035s usually do it with most cars. It maybe not be perfect prototype-wise for every single car, but it;s close enough for me. It's just a matter of the pocket length after that. Short works for most 50' cars. Then medium is next for some larger. I haven't looked at what they're making now, but if you're going to do most cars... I would consider the brown ones if they have them. The brown really looks so much better I think. And you can just buy the bulk sets. For modern day, only some captive cars like ore cars would have something less modern in truck type.
