I'm in the planning and testing stage of my railroad and I'm hoping to get some tips on laying track. I always seem to have problems getting the sections to match correctly. What is the easiest way to cut track? How hard is it to solder sections together? I want to concentrate on technique while I'm putting together a plan and supplies and would appreciate any advice. Thanks, Trevor
Trevor, When I lay track, I cut it with a Xuron Track Cutting tool. There are other brands of rail nippers, they all work pretty well. Then I file the rail ends flat, perpendicular to the rail itself. When I solder the rails together, I usually have one piece of flex track tacked in place, except for the last foot or so. I then connect the next piece, stretching out straight from the end of the first piece. Solder the rails together, let them cool for a moment (because they're HOT!) then tack them in place. You should have a smooth, fluid joint without kinks. If you get a nasty kink, unsolder the joint and try again. Make sure your soldering iron is hot and that the tip is clean, and use flux on the joint. Can't say more much, except that it takes lots of practice. Don't be afraid to pull out some track and redo it to get the kinks out - those kinks will almost always cause a derailment. Pat
Pat, Thanks for the quick response. Great advice. I'm going to look into the Xuron tool. How do you feel about using a Dremel to cut the rails? Thanks again, Trevor
Trevor- When I solder, I have two irons available. A 25 Watt pencil. And a dual range pistol style. The later takes some practice, as it puts out a fair amount of heat, and can melt plastic ties. I use a PC board solder that melts and flows nicely. Use a very tiny amount of flux intended for electronics. If you have some old scraps of track, use those for practice. The Xuron tool is a great suggestion. A Dremel will work. Please wear eye protection! Boxcab E50
If I can tack another question into Trevor's t thread: I am assuming at this point that for us beginners we're best to stick with Code 80 track rather than the more realistic Code 55?
I don't use a Dremel tool, mostly because I can never remember to keep my cordless tool charged! I'm not even sure which box it's in at the moment! That's not to say you can't use it...like Boxcab E50 recommends, wear eye protection when you use it. You're still going to want to keep a mill file handy, to even out the rail ends. Pat
I don't think that's necessary. There's not a whole lot of difference working with the two. If Code 55 is what you want, don't be scared of it. Practice is the main thing.
There's no real reason you should hold back. With the quality of presently available Code 55, if that is the route you think best, now and the planned future, go ahead. You'll be able to work with it just as easily as the larger sized rail. As always, take your time. Practice track laying methods and soldering, etc., on some scrap lumber. Perhaps you'll sacrifice a few pieces this way. And a few dollars. But it's worth the little time and money. When you start building the empire, your techniques will be solid. And you can quickly move toward the Golden Spike. Boxcab E50
Well, Thanks for the input guys. I spent the weekend practicing. I think I made some good progress, but some of my connections where a little rough. I seem to be having a problem with the rail height. One rail being slightly higher than the one joined to it. I've had some success filing them down, but still get a little "bump" when the engine goes over the welded area. Does anyone have some kind of idea of what may help solve this problem? I also boogered quite a few ties in the process. Is there a way to sheild the ties from the iron heat to prevent the melting? As soon as I figure out how to post a picture, I may be able to show more clearly the problem. Thanks again, Trevor
you can use what's called a "heat sink" to prevent the ties from melting. (you may melt some ties anyway, but that's ok. We all do at first!) A heat sink is just something you put on the rail between the joint and the ties to absorb any excess heat. I use wet cotton balls, but I've also heard of people using alligator clamps-those metal clamps that you get from Radio Shack, or any electronics store. But, you may not need them, depending on the wattage of the iron. I find you don't need them with a 35 watt iron, but with a higher wattage, you do.
