I almost forgot, the DCC decoder is going to be powering 2 motors, not the usual 1. Granted they aren't the big single motors that you see in Athearns or Bachmanns but I'm wondering if you can't just add 2 more wires into the motor feeds for the second motor? I already know I'm going to have to cut the analog direct feed to the motors from the pickups. Upside to these powered wheel sets is that I can burry them under the floor rather then having a giant motor in my car. The downside is I've never done this before and I'll have to work out the maximum speed of the motors and program that as a cap so I don't burn up the motors. I know the lights are DC and DCC compatible, but are Digitrax decoders?
Yes Josh the decoders come with analog on, so they will work on a DC layoutAs long as you dont exceed the current limit of the decoder you should be alright.
So my layout will most likely be 7'X5'. I'm looking to do 2 loops, 1 small yard, a small deadened branch, and a small inner loop independent of the rest of the track. I know I'll need reversing loops, but for this size, will 1 booster be enough with the tail light breakers?
I think Digitrax's booster maths are more for making money. My 8X10 layout is now 7X6(ish) and their booster math says I need to boost a section? I'm also finding out that when you go DCC you go broke.
Yes, works fine, probably better as two rollers per wheel is a greater contact area than a wheel on a rail alone.
That's what I thought for the diesels, but the steamers will still have one contact point on the trucks and tenders. I mainly ordered it so: 1, after programing I can test a loco without the worry of it running away (2 did this after address changes) and 2, I can work on the steamers in a controlled setting so I can see them run and address any oiling or drive issues.
Stand works great and I finally got to run my Challenger . I am wondering though, several of the instruction books I have talk about CV fractions (i.e. CV 56.4) and bit values. The Digitrax books that came with the Empire Builder system make no mention of how to access this system to program them. Any ideas on what these values are and how to access them?
CV's store values as Bytes ( 8 Bits ) ie; 00000000 to 11111111 presumably 56.4 is the 4th bit of CV 56. 87654321 00001000 the 1 here is 1000 binary or 8 decimal. With decimal values add 8 to activate the 4th bit or subtract to de-activate it. just to add confusion some notation has the 8 bits running from 0-7 ! 76543210 00001000
Thanks, so far I got everything to work. I do have another problem now however, factory decoders operating in reverse of the throttle's direction. 2 locos have to be set in reverse to go forward. One is a Geep that runs long hood forward and the other is my Challenger. I have to set the controller to tell them to run in reverse to get them to go forward.
Two options, 1. physically reverse the wires on the motor, or 2. Program CV 29 to run in reverse, read the current contents of CV29 and if it is an even number then add 1, if it is odd then subtract 1. as in my previous reply the Normal direction of travel is controlled by bit zero. 76543210 00000001 0 = Motor forward / Loco forward 1 = Motor reverse / Loco forward CV29 is the main config variable it handles DC on/off, 2/4 figure loco addresses, direction of travel, etc.
Thanks. I'm still trying to figure it all out. QSI uses a bit map for a lot of their mixed functions like the speed table and sounds. I did find this however and it looks better then any of the tables in the instruction books.
I'm developing an irrational hatred for Athearn Genesis locos and DCC. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have SP geeps and SDs that need to be rewired for the lights to work and the nine pin plug is on the bottom of the board. Plus the guts of these guys is just a rats nest of black wires. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you can scrape some more cash together, download Decoder Pro which is free, and you will need to purchase the gizmo from your computer to the track. Decoder Pro takes some of the pain out of programming, and almost.... almost.. makes it fun. It seems to me you are doing well for a newbie in working with Digitrax goodies already. http://www.digitrax.com/products/computer-control/pr3xtra/ Your system is over kill but if your addiction continues you will end up at some point with a larger layout and then it will come into its own. I had a 3 by 7 foot N scale layout for my son and we had the Super Chief....lol. But now I have a double decked N scale layout that is much larger still using the same system. Another advantage of Digitrax is there will be people in your area who use it so learn who they are so you can turn to help when you get a bigger problem that will stump, which you will get sooner or later. Also, can't remember if you bought your system used or not, but many don't realize there is a battery in the "box." Digitrax has two slots, each for a battery but only one is filled. What you do is purchase the new battery (roughly $5), slide it in the empty slot then take out the old battery from the other slot, nothing electronically stored is lost. This procedure is very easy to do, so easy I did it on mine. If you have bought used, find out what battery it needs and replace it now, that will save you headache number one when things act strange (dying battery)
Thanks. I got it all new and for now it will only be running locos and 1 car (BLI Daylight Observation). Which 'box' are you referring to? The DB150 doesn't have any but my newer controller only has the one for a 9V battery. I've already discovered that I don't have the old options mode for setting the 'switch' for the factory reset mode on the controller (or command station?). So far it isn't overkill since it does everything I want it to. My headache right now comes from converting everything over to DCC. Athearn Genesis Sucks. If the loco has ditch lies, you need to rewire. If you have a SP loco with more then 2 lights on the front or back, you need to rewire and all of the pickup wires AND light wires are black. Bowser went with a European 21 pin port for DCC so now I'm waiting on 21 to 9 pin decoder wiring harnesses for my three DC 636s. One of my older Bowser C360s ran fine in DC and now acts like it has a short in DCC and same with my Shay (but I called it a night before really working out what is going on). Right now it isn't really so much the Digitrax control system that I'm having issues with, as it is the conversions to make everything work on it physically. But seriously though, how do you do a reset on the DB150 with the DT402D throttle? The help section seems to outdate my throttle. Also, just wondering, DB150 power supply sold separately and a powered receiver station but no rechargeable battery for the throttle? This thing eats 9Vs like crazy and I do remove the battery when not in use-or plug it in to the receiver. Depends how tired/lazy I am.
I'm posting this for others as well as you, as I said many don't know there is a battery in their booster that needs replacing from time to time, in your case the battery in this "box:" http://www.digitrax.com/products/command-stations-boosters/db150/
It almost sounds like the board in your Athearn was put in up side down. Some do that to make the motor connection easier to attach to the board. The decoder pins on mine were on top. As reseting your Chief, looking in your book to OP switch options. Go to OP switch by first putting your comand station into ops mode, then push the switch button on your throttle. Now go to the op table and pick which one you want (op 37, 38, 39) then enter on the throttle. Remember there is an op switch they recommend (5 ?) to change to make it operate better. If you have more than one person on your layout I would suggest then you change the automatic purge setting to so you wont get "SLOT=Max" on your throttle. With ditch lights and loco lights they can cause a spaggetti mess inside the shell, I can only suggest you try to shorten the leads as much as possible, but not so short you cant pull the shell off.
