So I will be moving after the new year and my layout will be dismantled and I get to start fresh - Good and bad..... bad is I have time and $$ invested in this one but good is I have learned a lot and will get to do one from scratch applying new techniques and tips I've learned along the way. I still plan to model Cajon Pass or the Southwest in N scale and I will be using Atlas code 55 this time vs code 80. I plan to use number 10 turnouts on the main lines and number 7 turnouts in sidings and yards. I will also be using my Digitrax Evolution system on the next layout and getting rid of the two MRC systems I have. Layout will also be double deck in some areas. Right now I'm just in the planning phase of what I might do with a "full basement" but I need some confirmation, thoughts or feedback on the following questions please so I can start buying some of the items now. - What gauge wire for the feeders and bus? I've read 12 for the bus and 20 or 22 for the feeders? - Do I need a second bus for powering turnouts? Signals (when the time comes)? If so can someone recommend specifics? - Roadbed: I've always used cork but I've seen others use the Walthers foam strips, are they just as good or bad? - What is a good height to have the spacing between upper and lower level? I do plan to add lighting above both levels so I will have to account for that and the wiring and turnout motors for the upper level. I'm sure I'll have more between now and breaking ground on the new layout and will post them here as I go. Thanks in advance and feedback, comments are welcome. Steve
12 or 14 gauge for the Main Bus and 18 or 20 gauge for the feeders. I might also suggest you consider solid 18 gauge for the feeders. Solid wire is easier to solder to N Scale rails and easier to connect to your main bus. Short answer is no, you don't need a separate power source; HOWEVER, I have always kept the track power for the track ONLY and used a separate power source for everything else. Powering turnouts "might be" a different kettle of fish though. You may have to use the track power for them. If that is the case, then whatever unit you use to power your turnouts should have terminals appropriately marked. With that being said, I see no reason for not being able to use a separate power source as all you are doing is using that power to remotely change the direction of the points/turnout. Just a suggestion here...as said, I keep my track power separate to everything else. For everything else I use 24 point Terminal Blocks for every other thing. Connect the terminal block to a power source (DC controller for example) and run your wiring from the terminal block to what ever you need power for. You can also connect terminal blocks together so they can be located near the things you want to run power to. This way, you have one set of "main wires" running from the source to the Terminal Block and not a bunch of wires running from X to some where else. Using terminal blocks also helps with diagnosing any electric issues with a given thing connected to it. This again is personal preference. I use cork road bed because it is firmer and less likely to compress like foam roadbed can. I used foam road bed for my old HO Scale and found that it didn't perform as well as the Cork I now use for my N Scale layouts. I also think that the Cork roadbed I use (midwest) is easier top lay and holds its shape better than the foam did. My preference then would be to stay with the Cork Roadbed. I would think your "second level" would need to be high enough so you could still clearly see the lower level and have the space to work with that lower level. This is only a guess but I would think the minimum clearance between the top of the lower level and the bottom of the upper level should be some thing like 18". Hopefully someone else will be able to answer that question from personal experience and; therefore, more knowledgeably.
12-14 for main; 20-24 for feeders (depending on how long you make them and their frequency). I have used a completely separate power supply (old PC supply) for everything else. Then ran auxiliary lines around the layout as well. The PC supply gives +12V, +5V, +3.3V and -12V (and a common). All my DS64s, panels, scenery lighting, signals, turntable, etc., are fed from this. The command station output is simply for track. As I also use Digitrax, all accessory commands are read over LocoNet and are not dependent on the track being powered.
Will do, thanks for the feedback 18 or 20 it is... Steve Rick, That's the way I want to go too, keep the track separate from everything else. Do you use the same gauge wires on your "aux bus" as the main bus? Would an old DC command station (adjustable) work as the power supply for the aux or would that voltage be too high? Any recommendations on where to get a power supply like yours mentioned? Thanks Steve Tony, Thanks for the feedback. Copy on the wire sizes, I should be able to put them on order now. I already use terminal boards on this layout so it'll be easy to incorporate on the next one too. Nice to not need the second bus but like others said I might just do one to keep the track separate from everything else. I've used cork in the past and had good luck so I think I'll stick to it again, thanks for the reassurance! Was just curious if the other stuff was in some way much better but haven't found anything pointing that way yet. On the height I came up with 60" at the highest point and 40" at the lowest and the lowest just being some hidden staging tracks and run back tracks or hidden reverse loops. Still working on the plan though. Thanks again! Steve Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks Tony, I'll probably put a build thread together when the time comes and document all that I can. Steve Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Steve, Here is a link to a How To entry for converting a computer power supply http://www.trainboard.com/highball/...-pc-power-supply-instead-of-wall-warts.45036/ Yes, I use 12 AWG wires for these, too. I simply ran the 5 wires around the layout with terminal blocks spaced out to allow convenient "tap" points. I even cut a hole in my fascia at one spot, and mounted connection posts, so that I had easy access for ad hoc use. You can get these at just about any electronics or computer store. A 400-500W ATX power supply costs about $20 these days; cheaper if you have an old PC and can just pull one out . One comment I would add on the old thread: make sure to use one of the connectors to bring the power from the supply to your wiring. This way, when/if the power supply fails, you simply unplug it and plug the new one in.
Rick, thanks and great recommendations. I found one on amazon for $26 but I'm sure I can find one in an old computer between now and starting the next layout. I read your other thread too and will read the tutorial, I'll shoot some questions your way if needed and you don't mind. Thanks again, Steve Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Steve, Not wishing to intrude on Ricks suggestion, as what is recommended is (or was) a popular option. All I will say is to do some research on using PC Power Supplies, they can be very nasty and bite VERY hard if your not careful. Money/cost is always something to consider but when dealing with "electricity" you may be better of spending a few more dollars on a new DC Controller to power your ancillary items. A good option is an MRC 1370, which sells for around $30 at Kliens (some train store.com) and will handle all of your accessories. Bottom line for me is this, I'd rather be $30 short in my bank account and have all of my fingers and/or be alive than take a risk on converting something not designed for model railway use and have an extra $10 in my pocket.
Tony, I just googled that MRC-1370 and I have that same power pack sitting in my garage. It works great still and used to power my layout when it was DC. It does say 18v though, wonder if it would be too much? Appreciate the tip and whichever route I go I'll be sure to apply the safest/smartest method and do my research. After all I'll have time to do it! Thanks Steve Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Steve, I also have the MRC 1370 and have used that to power all of the lighting for my layouts both LED and conventional lights. I also used it to power tortoise slow mo machines and the newer DCC Concept slow mo machines. All things worked for me but I only ran them for a short time, a few months.
How about thermostat wire? It looks like solid wire and is dual colored and individually insulated. Anyone ever use it after stripping the outer cover? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Steve, Not sure if we are talking the same thing but I have "miles" of this stuff that I use for my drop feeders: As said, not sure what it is exactly but it works very well for feeders and for ancillary wiring. All I do to strip a 1/4" or 1/2" of the insulation is use a lighter and "melt the insulation" to a point where I can use my finger nails to strip it from the wire. I use two alligator clips to hold the wire hard against the side of the rails for soldering and it solders easily and quickly.
Wire strippers are cheap, easier, quicker, cut the insulation right where you want it to end and don't leave the insulation brittle enough to crack and flake off.
Oh, I have a perfectly good pair of wire strippers and cutters for 16 + gauge; but being 18 gauge or smaller, it is easier to melt/burn the insulation off.
First batch of materials purchased for the next layout. Went with the 14 AWG solid red and white for the track bus. Went with the red and white 20 AWG solid for the feeders.... Now do I use suitcase connectors or solder the feeders into the bus... decisions decisions! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'd definitely go with soldering all of your wiring. Suitcase connectors are okay BUT can fail if not properly installed. Granted, suitcase connectors make it easier and quicker to get your wiring up and going but, personally, soldering is going to give you a more reliable and solid join. On the other hand, if your soldering skills aren't that great, then suitcase connectors might be the way to go. Looks like a good choice of wire. I don't think you'll be disappointed using solid wire either. Just out of curiosity, how many drop feeders do you intend using?
Im pretty good at soldering so I could do either. I like the speed part of the connectors but soldering seems fail safe - just time consuming! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
