This is my first decoder install, maybe my last, we'll see how it goes, ain't starting real good though. I've got an Atlas U23B, supposed to be DCC ready, whatever that means. Anyway, my question. I've got an NCE D13SR Decoder, basically an 8 wire decoder (probably standard), the U23b has 8 solder points on the board. My question is how would anyone know which color coded wire to solder to which point? Are you just supposed to know this or what? Hopefully someone can take the attached pic and point out which wires go where. Thanks in advance. I apologize for my lack of knowledge.
When an engine states it is DCC ready it means it just takes a plug and play board. There usually isn't any wiring unless you're adding extra's. According to NCE's site they don't make a plug and play for this engine but digitrax does and this is the decoder: http://www.digitrax.com/prd_mobdec_dh163ip.php And on that page in the bottom left corner you can click on the instruction manual and see just how easy it should be to make that engine DCC equipped.
According to a quick search it is DCC ready. The small plug on the left side of the image is removed and a NCE D14SRP (or similar) is plugged in as per instructions and that's it. The D13SR will require a separate plug soldered to the wires. The NMRA site has the colour code for the plug - http://www.nmra.org/standards/DCC/standards_rps/rp911.html The circuit board in the loco should match this arrangement at the plug interface. Hope this helps. No need to apologise for the lack of knowledge. In looking for answers to your questions I found out more information myself. The following NCE brochure shows the D14SRP being for the Atlas U23B - http://www.ncedcc.com/ncetest/brochure_6_06.pdf - centre of second page. An alternative is the Digitrax pointed out above.
Thanks Thanks guys, I did find on the NCE site where the D14SRP was the best choice for this engine. I'll be sure to bookmark all of the sites you guys mentioned and be one more question down the road next time.....
Gats, This most definitely helps. Can I use the dummy plug that is on my loco and just solder the wires from the D13SR decoder to it, should this decoder then work with my U23b?
I see no reason why it wouldn't. The NMRA site has the colour code and pin arrangements listed and if the dummy plug allows the addition of wires... It would then be a matter of ensuring which is pin 1 in the socket, correctly wiring the plug and securing the decoder, probably double-sided tape to the existing board. I guess it's time to cue Dirty Harry...
I would not be suprised if the dummy plug jump the track power to the motor and lights, so you'll want to look carefully for any pc board traces, or test it with a meter. If they are there, you can probably cut the traces with a hobby knife. Jeff
I didn't see any jumpers on the board. jlbos83, not sure I understand what your'e saying here..... I got the decoder wired and installed...less the green wire. The loco lights up and hums, but I can't get it to move at all. Don't have any idea what I'm doing wrong.
Jeff: It's much easier to use a Digitrax PlugN'Play decoder as mentuioned above. There is no reason to hard wire a decoder to this loco. Stay cool and run steam...
Bob, Good to hear from you, I missed your posts this weekend. I know your'e right, it was just that I got my reverse loop wired and the Powerhouse all wired but didn't have a loco to run on it. There's not a stinking Hobby shop in Dayton that keeps any decoders in stock, go figure. I'm looking online right now. Anyone have any good online store to purchase decoders from?
Jeff: I was on a cruise to Tahiti and the Marquasas Islands since November 18 and just returned to Florida late last night. Keith at Discount Rails near Chicago can get you the decoders you need at great prices. http://www.discountrails.com/servlet/StoreFront Stay cool and run steam.....
http://www.litchfieldstation.com Bruce stocks every decoder imagineable. Free shipping $50 and over. He's also Digitrax certified.
Since I've already got this forum going let me ask about this. Just how hard would it be to hardwire a Athearn GP35 with a decoder. This thing is probably about 15 years old, is it possible?
Wig-Wag - http://www.wig-wag-trains.com - one of our advertisers. Digitrax, NCE, TCS. DCC Roundhouse - www.dccroundhouse.com - Lenz, TCS, ESU Additional discounts for 5 or more items and free shipping (in the US) for orders over $50. I've just ordered the Bachrus Saddle to see how the service is. Tony's Train Exchange - http://www.tonystrains.com/index.html - everything.
Installed a Lenz Silver I just installed a Lenz Silver decoder into a Proto 1000 F3. Everything seems to work fine except for the light. The light comes on real quickly when I first power it up or if I take the train off the tracks and set it back on it will again light up quickly and then shut off. Any ideas as to what's going on?
Jeff: Try reversing the wiring to the light and see if that works. Test it out on your programming track first. Have fun. Take care.. Stay cool and run steam....
Bob, Are you saying to disconnect the wires on the light and just switch them? or do you mean something else? BTW, what type of soldering iron do you use for these small jobs like decoders and such? I've got a Weller but I don't feel comfortable using it in type spaces and I can't find a sharp enough point for it to use on electronic boards and such.
Jeff: Switch the blue and white wiring from the decoder to the front headlight. You attached the decoder blue and white wires to the wiring of the light. Switch positions of the blue and white wiring (reverse them) and test on the programming track and then on your mainline. Stay cool and run steam.....
Bob, I tried this. However I had installed a the Lenz silver, all I had to do was plug it in, I didn't install a new light, it was simply what came from the factory. That said, after I did this I get nothing from the loco now though. It moves slightly on the program track as I switch through the CV's, but I can't get it to do anything on the Main. Any ideas?
