I automatically figured (and bought) 3/8" plywood for my N scale 'around the wall' layout; http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?132598-What-s-wrong-with-this-layout&highlight= Now I'm thinking about using foam board which I've never used before. I know it's popular as a 'fill' material for mountains or just to raise the area for a river or stream 'cutout', but I see many using it for the base itself. Ok, since this is a somewhat large, narrow and long around the wall layout in N scale, what do you guys think of using; just plywood? just foam board? foam board over plywood? Also, what thickness of foam board? Lastly, how about humidity and expansion and contraction due to temperature swings in a northern unheated basement?
This is an extension of my layout. It is 1 1/2" foam with foam brackets. Hot glued to the wall. No sagging , very light, and will hold anything reasonable that you want to put on it. I think I used a 2 ' spacing between brackets. Foam does not expand or contract in my basement, and I believe it will be stable in an unheated basement also......Mike
I did see that in another thread. It couldn't/wouldn't work with a three foot wide layout (at least the brackets part).
I'm using two sheets of 3/4" foam on top of 22" shelf brackets extended with 1"x2" boards. It hasn't sagged a bit after 5 years with Plaster Cloth and Sculptamold scenery.
That's fantastic...I may use your benchwork idea for my layout. So simple... I just have to figure out the best way to fasten the brackets. Drywall is attached to masonry...only thing holding the boards on is 1x2 slats that are attached to the masonry.
How about drywall anchors, the kind that open behind the sheetrock like toggles? Home Depot and Lowe's have some great new designs, much better than the old Molly Bolts. Push come to shove, you could always use plastic or metal expansion anchors in the masonry, but then you would have the 1/2" drywall and 3/4" gap behind the drywall to consider.
Best way to secure the shelf brackets is to drill through the 1x2 cleats into the concrete and use " Tapcons" . These are a special kind of screw that will hold in the concrete without using any kind of anchors. Just ask for them at any hardware store. Builders use them a lot and they will really hold !!......Mike
Tapcons...I've seen those...thanks for the reminder! Getting excited...now if I can just come up with a plan I like...
Ken, that photo was taken 4 years ago. Today, I do my best to crop, mute, filter, or otherwise block any negative images that may detract from my pristine reputation. WOW, I hope you are wearing high-top boots, 'cause it's getting deep down here....:tb-ooh: Back to the topic...I have used Tapcons in brick and cement block, and they hold extremely well. Geck, Tapcons would be excellent in your application for attaching metal shelf brackets to masonry through drywall. Just drill a large enough hole in the drywall so that it does not interfere when you drill and anchor the Tapcons. Also, back the drywall behind the brackets so that the drywall is not crushed when you tighten the Tapcons. Maybe you could secure the brackets through the 1x2 drywall supports....?
First question; Why not one 1 1/2" piece? Second question; Those aren't fixtures that have UV tubes for growing anything are they?? :mwink: Yes, it's way too neat of a room. Unbelievably simple, but outstanding of a idea. Any pics of the layout??
Bruce, neither our local HD or Lowe's stock anything thicker the 3/4" for some reason. I initially wanted a single sheet, either 1-1/2" or 2". But having a pair of 3/4" sheets turns out to be a blessing because it allows me to carve rivers and lakes in the top sheet without worrying about weakening or cutting through the bottom sheet. The fixtures are just simple shoplights, though the ones further from the camera have tubes that are more red/yellow than the closer ones. I want to swap out the far ones someday, because the closer ones give a better color to the scenery. Unfortunately, the far ones probably will outlast the near ones, and I can't seem to justify replacing good tubes.
Good point. Any structural difference? Ok, expansion and contraction, I know about wood, I'm told foamboard does not. How about sectional track on foamboard? Is there still a concern with temp. & humidity changes?
No, the 3/4" sheets don't appear to sag, probably because the shelf brackets are 16" or less apart due to wall stud spacing. I have the advantage that my trainroom is included within the house central HVAC system, so don't have significant temperature and humidity swings. However, since foamboard also is used in non-controlled environments with no ill effects, I would assume that you wouldn't have to worry with sectional track, or rigid plaster-based scenery.
Yes the rails WILL expand and contract. If you lay the track in the winter leave small ( very small !) gaps between the joints. If laying in the summer butt the joints tight. You still may have to cut a few expansion joints, but this should minimize them.....Mike
The way things are going, it might be next summer before any track is laid. If I do lay track in winter at a temperature of 45-50 degrees and humidity of the same, what can I expect for expansion in 75 degree temperatures and possibly as high as 70-80% humidity (extremes)?
I have built benchwork on foam, plywood, and on combinations of foam on a wood base (hollow core door). All have their merits. I like your all foam approach. Looks solid, simple, and affordable. Just my style!
The humidity will not matter as long as you aren't using any wood. The rails will expand, how much?? kinda depends. just leave a 1/16" gap in a few places, and you should be fine....Mike
The wood sub-base and framework excluded? 1/2" thick foam ok? Over 240 views and only 7 votes?? Common guys.............
