After my success last weekend, I decided to try updating my WP #801 F3A, so that both consists for my California Zephyr have sound (I do not have any CBQ consists for it). I decided to only put sound in the A unit, and will put LokPilots in the two B units. At first blush, it looked as if everything would actually fit without frame modification, but upon more careful inspection, I decided to add a little bit of room at the back for the speaker. This shows the section of the back portion of the frame I will mill out ("inside" the blue) Here is the pocket fully milled - only took about 20 minutes to create this pocket And this demonstrates the space created (this is the sound chamber for an SBS Sugar Cube 8x12mm speaker
Here is a test fit of all the components. I created a small board, with surface-mount 1.5K ohm resistors for the lights (on left); then the decoder; then two 16V 220uF capacitors in parallel, then the speaker. Here is the everything (but lights) wired up. Video of test run to be uploaded later. I added 2 Mars lights, a normal white one for forward motion, and a red one for reverse. These are 0402 SM LEDs, and the headlight is an 0603 Super-Incandescent LED. Unfortunately, after very careful testing of everything, I managed to short out the headlamp, so will need to replace it next weekend. Video of the Mars lights to be uploaded later.
Terrific installation, Rick. The 402 LEDs are amazing - I have trouble handling 603's, so you must have better coordination than I do! John C.
The tricky part with the 0402s was getting them to adhere "flat" to the back of the upper lamp. Once you have the wires on them, the weight of the wires puts more torque on the LED than the drying CA can hold. Sitting there and holding on, without moving, is VERY hard. For wiring, I use Ngineering's handy tool. Still much slower than wiring the 0603s.
Here is the video of the basic install (without lights or shell) being tested. Does anyone know what the correct horn is for WP F3s?
Here is the video of the working Mars lights, white when forward, red when reverse. So, I know most of us have had our Home Simpson "doh" moments when putting things together. So there I am, testing the lights and I saw a slight flicker on the headlamp. I go to make sure that the magnet wire is soldered correctly (and the headlamp circuit is next to the "common") and, instead of reaching with my non-conductive tweezers.... yep, I pick up my fine pointed metal ones. My mind starts screaming at me "you have power on, you have metal", but stupid me.... Luckily, I wired up multiple spare LEDs for all the ones being used Saturday morning
Don't feel bad. I think I blew up the audio amp of my IM SD40-2 decoder when doing a speaker transplant in that unit. I noticed one of the wires from the speaker had a bare spot, and thought "I should put a piece of heat-shrink tubing over that," but then got in a hurry and didn't do it. The unit worked fine and sounded great (much better than IM's stock speaker) UNTIL I decided to pull off the shell to do some tweaks on the ditch lights while the unit was still on the track. Sure enough, when I pulled the shell, the bare spot on the speaker wire contacted the frame, there was a loud ZZZZTTTT, and that's all she wrote on the sound side (the motor and lights kept working, though!). Will eventually replace it; at least you didn't see $80 go up in smoke before your eyes John C.
I have been staring at the image in my last video.... years ago I bought a bunch of BLMA detail parts for E & F units, and never got around to installing any of them. hmmmm. It's like seeing a squirrel.
Well, since I had to take the lights out of the shell anyway... I started installing the details. Only one broken #80 drill bit later (spares on hand), I have a bunch of the pilot holes drilled for both sides, and wipers, grab irons and handles installed on the fireman's side
Looks good! Just spitballing ideas here, but I *think* there's enough meat and space in there to install an 11x15x4 sugarcube in there. I might have to try machining a frame out this weekend to see what happens. Enjoy! Kelley. www.dufordmodelworks.com
There should be. I didn't want to take off too much weight, though. One could also mill out the fuel tank for either a speaker or more capacitors
I did finish the detail install today. Only item I didn't add were the cut levers, I really could not figure out the instructions for placing them on the BLMA package. And, how to not interfere with the coupler pocket. In looking at photos of the WP F3As, I don't see the MU hoses in any pictures, so have left those off as well. Tomorrow is back to the lights, and (hopefully) buttoning up this unit. Then the LokPilots into the B-Units and speed matching this weekend.