I have just purchased (2) LL BL-2's, (1) GP-18, (1) FA-2/FB-2 engines in Missouri Pacific Blue/Gray from a guy here in St. Louis, and I have a few questions for the Forum. 1) What is the best coupler to use for these units? I have looked the the Micro Train catalog, but I'm still confused. I think these are all older units, with the "toothless" frames, but how can I be sure? 2) What is your opinion of these units and can they be made better? 3) If I decide to go DCC, can these units be converted. I know many of you will say "Throw them away" or something like that. But I'm trying to model the MoP in the 50's and early 60's, so this paint scheme works for me. I also have an Atlas GP-7TT. Thanks for any help or advice given.
I have LL FA1/FB1 units and MTL didn't have a coupler according to the catalogue, but my hobbyshop found out that a coupler for a similar locomotive worked just fine. And yes, these units can me converted to DCC. They have a split frame. There maybe some cutting needed, but a friend who is expert in installing decoders, sees no problems. The other locomotives, I do not know.
If the GP-18 is the older, plastic frame one, it can be DCC'ed. It's not a split frame design so you do it by all wire to wire connections. You need to mill a little of the rear of the frame to accomodate the decoder. Both of mine run smooth, quiet, and can pull you teeth out if need be. You can also easily convert the coupler to a MTL pilot/coupler conversion. I *think* it's #1188 and goes for about $10 per loco. Comes with a very precise fitting pilot to which you mounter the MTL coupler. You just have to cut off the truck mounted Rapidos. I'm happy with them and paid about $20 each. Dropped in a $16 Digitrax decoder and I'm good to go.
If they are plastic frame, they are the older versions. MT sold conversion kits specifically for both the BL-2 and the FA-2. The distinguishing features on the plastic frame power are: a) the gaping holes where the pilots should be and b) truck mounted couplers. The MT kits fill the gaping holes and change the truck mounts to body mounts. If they are metal frame, use 1015/1016. You simply remove the clip, take out the metal spring piece from the clip, put the 1015/1016 into the clip and replace the whole business. If you damage the clip, you can always use the screws. A pin holds the factory nose coupler in place on the A unit of the FA combination. You can use that pin to hold in the MT. The metal frame FAs and BL-2s come with body mounted couplers. I can not say much about the GP-18; too modern for me. I do not use DCC, so I can not say much about it, either,
Thanks to all that answered. I searched the different threads on this forum and read a lot of them in order to find the couplers I need. Now I just have to find a shop that still sells them. I guess I'll stick with DC, since that seems to be TABOO for these units also.
