Kits for rock molds?

N_S_L Sep 10, 2003

  1. N_S_L

    N_S_L TrainBoard Member

    3,040
    4
    46
    I would love to make my own rock molds so I can cast my own rocks....anyone know if anyone makes a kit or maybe just how to do this -

    I want rock juts in my mountains, but knowing I made them would be oh-so nice :D

    I'll be browsing the net to see if I can come up with anything
     
  2. Derek

    Derek TrainBoard Member

    202
    0
    19
    I haven't tried it but I thought I'd recalled an article in Model Railroader not too long ago about making molds for structure castings. I went to www.trains.com and searched for "mold" in the magazine database and it looks as if there have been several articles about latex molds etc. published over the years in a few of the model railroad publications. Here's the link to my search: http://index.mrmag.com/tm.exe?opt=S&cmdtext=MOLD&sort=A&output=3&view=25

    If that doesn't work here's the magazine index homepage: http://index.mrmag.com/

    Unfortunately the magazines are probably a little hard to get but I think you can order MRR backorders online.

    Hope I could be of some help...but I'm sure somebody knows how to do it firsthand...

    Derek
     
  3. Bruce-in-MA

    Bruce-in-MA TrainBoard Member

    995
    1
    23
    I've done rock faces using heavy duty Aluminum foil molds. This can be done two ways - and very cheaply.

    The first is to find a tree with a deep bark pattern and rub the foil over it so the bark pattern is transferred to the foil.

    The second is to crumple up the foil and then slowly un-crumple it so that the creases stay and the foil is back to near flat.

    You can always experiment with other surfaces that you might think would make a good rock mold transfer to the foil.

    After forming the foil, I sprayed the inside of the foil with a light coat of Pam (or a cheap generic brand is fine), set it in a box, and carefully pour the plaster over the foil mold. Make it about a half inch thick so it has some strength after it dries. Make sure you let dry overnight before you try to remove the foil (and remove slowly and carefully).

    I found that the bark mold method turned out better because the creases in the foil were not as deep (which looks more to scale).
     
  4. N_S_L

    N_S_L TrainBoard Member

    3,040
    4
    46
  5. rray

    rray Staff Member

    8,314
    9,479
    133
    I bought about 3 of the Woodland Scenics rock molds to do my whole layout.

    I was taught by a Master many years ago in Boise. He showed me that all you have to do is rotate the rock castings, and apply them in groups of 3, then chip the plaster with a sharp steak knife and a fork to blend them. No 2 castings ever match, and they look great.

    Method goes like this:

    Make your foam base with styrofoam and misc snips, snaps, and pops held together with minimal expanding foam. Cut to shape your mountains with a steak knife.

    Mix a soupy plaster of paris or Hydrocal mixture, and wearing cheep latex gloves, slather all your mountains with the base coat.

    Mix a regular mixture of plaster and pour in your rock molds, bounce them on the layout a few times to get the bubles out, and wait until the plaster looks like it's setting. It will display fine microfractures or cracks when you flex the mold when it's ready to apply.

    When the moulds are ready, apply in groups of 3, making the peaks of mountains if desired, or whatever you like. Take the remaining mix that did not fit in the molds, and spoon it inbetween the 3 molds, even if some of it goes up and over the molds. Hold the molds in place firmly until you feel the heat reaction starting.

    After about 15-20 minutes, you can peel the rubber molds off, and work your rock castings/mountains with a sharp steak knife and a fork, chipping, scraping between the 3 molds, and otherwise forming to the desired shape. They all turn out different.

    Next step is mix a color wash of artists tube acrylic and water. Use the classic colors like raw umber, yellow ochre, and burnt sienna. Use about as much as toothpase on a toothbrush mixed into a cup of water, and brush it on your still wet mountains. It will soak the color in. Use washes of all 3 of those colors, remembering that they will dry much lighter.

    The next day, you will be very pleased with your work! :D
     

Share This Page