No, just clarifying how the tanks were painted for others, as your diagram shows them all gray. I have friends in the plastics molding business, and know that even simple dies are very, very expensive. There is a resin kit that may or may not still be available, but it was not very well made. And many of the details just plain wrong. Paul
Well, photos bear that out to not be the case... http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/rsPicture.aspx?road=HWCX&Page=1 I have personally seen at least a half dozen over the past 6-7 years on trains in various areas around Texas and the midwest. I'm pretty sure I have photos but have not been able to find any yet.
New images will be up tomorrow night. I gotta get some shut-eye. I'm just at the point of finishing up the catwalk mount points on the tank lids. After that, it's just the hoses and off to print after we all go over the details. There is one somewhat difficult issue right now: how to cut it up for assembly. The way I have it split (in the image earlier in the thread) means that the ladders will have to be separated from the rest of the model and glued in place. Also, the gusset plates between the tanks at the top are really thin and may not hold up so well during printing if I keep the tanks separated. The only fix is making the tanks as a single piece, but that would make them near impossible to paint the areas in between. If that is the case, I will have to thicken them up to where it will be a little noticeable. We shall see come review time. Some slightly better news though, I got the price down to about $32.00. It's a little pricey since you still have to buy the trucks, couplers, mesh walkway and a brake wheel, and I may have thinned the materials out too much, but I'll know more when it comes back from printing. I expect to send it off on Monday. If it turns out right the first time around, I'll be VERY excited. During the modeling process, everything looks so big, but, for example, the catwalk is only 11mm wide, less than 1/2 inch. That makes me a little more confident about these exposed smaller details.
Okay, top shot is from 2007 in Bakersfield's BNSF yard.. Side shot is from 2003 at Haliburton's facility on the UP in NW Bakersfield. Hope it helps.
Ok, here we go - I'm pretty excited. I'm not a "rivet-counter" but I'm pretty close. Sometimes, the capabilities of this technology force my hand. Look at each of the images below and tell me if you see anything unacceptable. There's no gaurantee that all of these little details will print properly, or not break off or warp during printing, but this is the final model: [TABLE="class: grid, width: 800"] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD]PICTURE 01 (space left here for notes and comments on this image)[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD]PICTURE 02 Issue: air pressure line from top of tank is being buried by a weld plate just after it makes the first bend.[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD]PICTURE 03 Non-prototypical: I added longitudinal supports for the catwalk so that it can be secured better, and in an effort to keep the very thin horizontal supports from warping.[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD]PICTURE 04 Note: You may not have noticed, but the flanges on this side of the car make the full "M" while the flanges on the other side do not, to allow for the air line. This is prototypical.[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD]PICTURE 05 (space left here for notes and comments on this image)[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD]PICTURE 06 (space left here for notes and comments on this image)[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD]PICTURE 07 (space left here for notes and comments on this image)[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD]PICTURE 08 (space left here for notes and comments on this image)[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD]PICTURE 09 Cosmetic issues: -Ladder appears too thick. --Reason: I have varying thicknesses throughout the model so I can test the process more thoroughly. If the thinner details hold up, then I will consider thinning the ladder by .1mm or so. -Gauge bezel appears too thick --Reason: It is currently at .2mm thickness. If I made it any smaller, you probably wouldn't be able to see it. It can be changed to .1mm if you all want. [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD]PICTURE 10 (space left here for notes and comments on this image)[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] The model had been split at the color line, so just paint the bottom portion red, and the top white (or select your preferred colors.) The ladder will have to be painted separately, as well as the catwalk mesh and the brake wheel. (mesh and brake wheel not included) I also chose to split the model this way because the lower portion has a lot of complexity to it, and I'd rather it be a single piece than risk something breaking.
That looks positively awesome. What coupler is appropriate for that box? Any idea on where to get the roof walk etched?
The correct color for the upper portion is a light gray, and good colors to use would be SP Lark Light Gray or SP Lettering Gray. White wasn't used but for markings down on the red frame, car number and such. An aside, the roof hatches have 6 evenly spaced dogs.
Coupler is the MT 1015/1016, trucks are the BLMA 70-ton, and as for walkways... I know I saw some somewhere, just can't remember. Also, you need to find a brake wheel for this car. I'll go ahead nd start finalizing the model for printing.
Paul, what is a "dog" on the roof hatches? Nevermind, I looked it up. I could only count 4, oddly spaced in the images I had available. Can you post an image of the type of "dog" used? I just make a block since it's so tiny. Okay I can see that there could be 6 in the image I have. The angle of the shot masked 2 of them. I'm reworking the hatch right now and will post a pic soon. In addition to the hatch, I fixed the airhose issue at the tank rim. I have submitted the model already and if it gets approved for printing, the target shipping date to me is April 24. If (and that's a pretty big if) everything prints just right, and fits properly and whatnot, I worked the price down to $28.59. If, during my testing, the model isn't strong enough, I'll have to beef up some thicknesses which will result in a slightly higher price... maybe $5 extra. Not sure yet. If the handrails, grabs and ladders don't print right, I'm probably going to just remove them from the model or oversize them. I will make both versions available depending on your modeling desires.
For the ladders, instead of having them printed, maybe we could just use Gold medal ladders? This is if they don't hold up, and to keep the cost of the "core" car down.
"Dogs" are clamps that keep the hatch closed and sealed. These hatches are not just covers, but hold pressure. There is a flat rim around the edges that clamps to a flat rim on the actual opening going into the tank. There is a groove on the lip of the hatch, appx 1/4" wide, with an O-ring seal. The dogs are adjustable and have a cam type action as they rotate closed so that they tightly seal the hatch. For modeling purposes, I think your representation in post #49 is just fine. If you look in the middle of the hatch you can see me taking the photo... hahaha...
I've never heard of that product (the gold medal ladders), but sounds good to me. The thing is, it really will only reduce the cost by a few cents, since the material volume of the ladder is, at most, 7 cubic mm. Metal details would certainly be more sturdy.
Paul, I sent the model off with the 6 "blocks" already, but can easily update the final version. To make something more detailed is going to be pretty much non-printable. The "blocks" are .5mm tall, .5mm deep and .3mm wide. I have the feeling they will be barely visible as it is. I can exaggerate the size a little to allow for a small change in shape. I will do the best I can. I would really like to have that detail in there.
More details. View attachment 53811 View attachment 53812 The things shown on the 5" bulk lines on the side of the car are Victaulic Clamps (first two photos below), and "butterfly valves". The valves used are the common, and durable, reliable, FMC-Weco. Victaulic Clamps have edges that fit into grooves on the ends of the pipe sections, and also contains a pressure activated seal. These unions allow for some movement, wiggle, and ability to make up for minor misalignment during fabrication and assembly. View attachment 53813 View attachment 53814 View attachment 53815 Nlaempire, No, I think what you have for the hatches now is just fine. Don't change them. Nor can you add handles to the valves without having parts break off. I would leave those details just as you have them. I just wanted to show a better view of the actual hatches and other components.
For some reason my photos in Post #54 won't show, and I can't edit. My edit button seems to be missing.
After a few hours I think, it won't let you change what you wrote. I wish that was more like 24 hours.
The things shown on the 5" bulk lines on the side of the car are Victaulic Clamps (first two photos below), and "butterfly valves". The valves used are the common, and durable, reliable, FMC-Weco. Victaulic Clamps have edges that fit into grooves on the ends of the pipe sections, and also contains a pressure activated seal. These unions allow for some movement, wiggle, and ability to make up for minor misalignment during fabrication and assembly.
Delays, delays. Well, the model got rejected due to parts being too thin: - The ladder was rejected because the rungs are too thin. I will thicken them up and resubmit but we should expect to have to provide an aftermarket ladder - The catwalk support structure is too thin: I made "L" shaped girders to simulate the prototype, but the ends are too thin. I will have to use a box instead. Model will be adjusted and resubmitted today.
For the catwalk supports, would any plastruct or evergreen shapes work? Just an idea. As for the ladders, I vote for aftermarket etched brass ladders.
