I recently completed my first 2 turnouts. I realize I have to cut isolation gaps just past the frog. Can I use insulated rail joiners at the frog instead of making the cuts? On another note, does anyone have an effective and simple method for attaching feeders to track. That should be fast tracks, not fats tracks. Typo Thanks
I don't think the plastic rail joiners would work because they would melt when soldering. I was using the Zona saw for the gaps, but now I use .009" thin cut off wheels bought from Loren and they work great. As for feeders, I'm guessing you mean to the frog. I was just going to drill a hole and run a thin wire (.015" maybe) up and bend it to the top of one of the frog PC ties and solder to that. Probably be able to post pic in the next few days...
The insulated rail joiners will be placed on the frog rails after all soldering is complete so melting is not a problem. As far as feeders, I was refering to track in general, such as flex track. Thanks
Get one of these $15 soldering stations from MPJA: Mine came in the mail today, as a replacement for my tiring old $50 Weller WLC100: They are virtually identical, except the chord. I got an extra tip at the same time.
My iron is similar to what Robert posted, goes from 400-800 degrees F. For $15 I may have to get another. Mine was around $130 a long time ago (UTC-200) Yoshi, Not sure how you could add insulated joiners after all soldering is done. Is there a reason you want to do it like that instead of cutting gaps? The gaps are just about invisible and joiners stick out like a sore thumb. As for feeders you might try soldering wire to the bottom of metal joiners, that is an easy way. If the track is hidden I have solder wires right to the outsides of the rail. If it is seen I have soldered to the bottom of the rail, but sometimes that is tricky once the track is down. If you want PM me your address and I'll mail you some photos.
PS, for inspiration check this out: I did this in N scale a couple months back. Based off of the real thing: Real thing: Since these are all custom with no Fast tracks available I drew it all out in CAD and glued ties right to the printout. It is Erie's terminal in Manhattan reached only by a car float.
Well, after cutting the isolation gaps on the frogs, I noticed that there was only one solder joint holding the rail together past the frog. Looks like I will have to re-enforce with more pcb ties if I cut the gaps. Same goes for the gaps before the frog, but I have to cut these so I re-enforced with an extra pcb tie. Some one had mentioned using insulated rail joiners on the fast tracks web site So iwas just wondering if anyone had done this.
Hey Yoshi; I use a jewlers saw and superfine jewlers blades to cut the gaps in the frog and points. I tried cutoff wheels and found it too sloppy of a cut on my nicely finished turnouts. So i recomend you buy a jewlers saw like the Zona one Chris is using. For a single feed wire to "hot-up" your frog, i pull a single wire from a CAT-5 strand and solder it to the bottom of the frog prior to installing the turnout. For feeder wires i have two ways, my old way and a new and improved way. It is easy to solder a pair of CAT-5 wires to the bottom of any rail section prior to installing it on the layout. This makes the installation a bit tricky since you have to line up your feeder wires with a pre-drilled hole. The "new & improved" method is to install all the track, then come back and drill holes in the center of each of the rail joined connections. Then feed a pair of CAT-5 wires up through and solder them directly to the railjoiners. I solder a pair of feeder wires at every connection possible. Tony B..... Wasatch Z Club
Yoshi; I have not had any problems with cutting the rails and NOT adding any extra PC ties. I glue on the "quick stick" and let it dry fully. when i'm ready to install a turnout, i prep the frog wire and cut the gaps. you may need to re-glue a piece or two of the quick stick because they may fall off during cutting. I bigest chalange with fasttracks that i have found, is final run testing and tuning. Unlike regular sectional track where you have nice clean factory ends and alighnment clips, Fast Tracks with MTL flex is a bit of work to cut and fit. With that said, once your finally ready to test run a train, don't be surprised that you have problems with your turnouts. I have had to tune each and every one of mine for varring reasons. The best way to find problems is to have a loose loco truck to hand push through each turnout, then make your adjustments. I've had to move gaurd rails, and adjust the track gauge with the soldering iron. I keep running a loco, and every place i have a problem, i inspect and hand run a loose truck through to figure out what is wrong, then fix it. Once you tune fast tracks turnouts up, they run very smooth. My modo is "i made it, so i can fix it.....or if i destroy it, then i'll make another" either way i can't loose. Tony B.... Wasatch Z Club PS: Hooking up blue point or tortise units is a whole subject of "fun work" in it self.......LOL
OK I see what your saying now. I do add 3 or 4 extra PC ties once the turnout is done and removed from the jig. This is Z scale code 40 made a few days ago: http://picasaweb.google.com/ErieChris333/Models/photo#5076728390145976066 I add a tie after the frog gap, another before the throw bar and one about 4-5 ties in from the left to support the stock rails when the points are thrown. For me these flow right into "flex" made the same way so I leave the rails long and stager the joiners. I also don't use the "quicksticks" laser cut turnout ties. I just slide my own under the. (think they are 1/32 x 3/64")
Ben, I'm not sure if Loren has a website or not, but I believe he is a dentist and these thin cut-off wheels are used for that. https://www.dedeco.com/cart/products.asp?grouping_id=96 I see they also make .005" thick: https://www.dedeco.com/cart/product.asp?product_id=5190 But those would probably crumble in your hand, I'd stick with the .009" which is just about the same as a Zona saw. You could PM or Mail Loren.
