Today I got some of the wiring done with the yard tracks and the outside main. I forgot how soldering was a pain in the . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It looks like I will need to go back and re-solder some of the tracks. I tested the tracks in the yard again today and some of them have one or two dead circuits.
Tonight I went back and re-soldered the loose wiring. Retested it after I installed the tracks. I also started on the spur track side also. I will have to finish up tomorrow. Then I can bring all of the wires together. All is good. Though this time I shifted the layout more to one side. So I can add a gulch without having to cut too much foam to cut. Since the one side is already cut at an angle.
I finished the wiring for my layout. I tested every track that was hard wired to the tracks about seventeen different tracks that I hard wired. Every track in the yard every spur on the industrial side. Plus certain areas of the main. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well tonight I put up the plexiglass barrier on the layout. Here’s the layout after I got done with the hardwiring also. Next up I will start with the scenery.
Thank you for keeping us up to date on your progress. I'll keep watching as this may be were I'll be headed. I'll have to down grade the HO and return to N. Everyone have a nice Valentines Day.
Thanks shortround! I try to keep everyone in the loop on my progress. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mo-Pac thanks for the updates. Your cuts look nice and clean. Did you use a circular saw with the blade mounted backwards? Too late for your layout, but maybe this will help someone else.. Drilling plexiglass crack free can be done by grinding the drill bit to a different angle. I forget the angel off the top of my head but I'm sure an internet search will turn it up. I've successfully drilled plexiglass this way in the past. It is still not fool proof. If using buggle headed screws, ie dry wall screws, a finish washer should be used.
I would highly disagree with grinding a drill bit even shallower to achieve crack free drilling. I didn’t have one crack in my plexiglass. I used a lower speed and slow feed. Even after screwed in the countersunk screws. I used the lowest torque setting and no higher than number 5 on the drill setting. I rather do it right the first time! The cutting on the plexiglass was done by Lowe’s when I picked out the piece that I was needed. No need for grinding the drill bit to a different angle or washers. Too many years in the machine shop will control your mind in my case. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Key word small drill bit! If you are straining your drill bit you are asking for trouble. Plus keeping it vertical by hand can be hard also. The bit I used was the same width as the shaft of the drill. Slow and easy is always the best way to deal with fragile and delicate materials. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Like how everything is coming along Clayton! The plexiglass edges turned ot nice. Are you planning on painting them from the layout edge down or possible putting some type of fascia over that?
I no-long have a drill press but I still have a small device with an aluminum platform (6" dia.), two steel studs with a brace that slides up and down and a stud in the middle. The 1/4" chuck attaches to one side and 1/4" drill to the other. That lets the drill bit go straight in and out. Yesterday I was in True Value Hardware and they still have them.
I am not planning to paint the plexiglass on the lower end. Though I was thinking about finding something to hold the corners together and add a trim on the top. Just to make it look nice though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That’s okay pal! Although there is some scoring from when the Lowes associate cut the plexiglass Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk