Hi all, I have a problem with my digital gg-1. I have used a Lokpilot mini to gigitalize it. I have changed the CV so i have 1,1 volts out to the lights, but my problem is that when i turn the light on, the lights is more orange the the usual yellow, and it starts to "buzz" ???? any ideas why?
I don't know why it buzzes, but is sounds like it is getting AC instead of DC from the decoder. I have never tried one of those decoders before, but maybe someone else knows? Anyways, Happy Birthday from a couple days ago!
as far as I can read from the manual - these decoders adjust brightness (not volts as Henrik says) by adjusting the pulses of AC supplied to the lights (in steps from 0 to 15) these would explain the buzzing? and change of colour? CV113-116 0=dark 15=bright brightness (they call it volume) +16 or +32 ... until +144 controls other aspects (functions) of lights I would set it at 15 and see if it behaves differently Chris
You are right Robert! When i set my multimeter to AC it shows 2 volts!!! But when i set it do DC it shows 1,1 volts!!! Weird!!!!! i installed a uhlenbrock mini 73400 in my f7 today! I ran smooth, untill i stopped... I reprogrammed the decoder and then it worked again.... Also weird....
Ok... The buzzing comes from the decoder, Setting all cv`s to 15 only increases the voltage ut to the lights.... I guess that the lights is 1,5 volts?
Henrik, I think you will find in the manual dire warnings that the lights have to be 16V ?? (or else used with resistor?) have a look here also: http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/nswmn1/Lights_in_DCC.htm and here (about function voltage): http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/nswmn/function1.htm Chris
With all decoders, the lights get the same decoder volts as the motor. Most of the time, this is 100% on but for effects, it varies the duty cycle and for most all decoders, you can change the brightness maximum and some can also change the minimum voltage, ideal for light bulbs. 0-15 sounds like a reasonable range. If you program 15, I would expect a 100% duty cycle or essentially a pure DC volts about 10-12 volts. Read on a typical AC voltmeter, this would read lower. (if it uses a capacitor to remove the DC component from the indended AC measurement, it would read 0 + noise). But maybe with these decoders they don't use the full decoder DC volts, maybe they use 50% for the "full" voltage. Since it likely pulses very fast (5-20 KHz range like the motor's drive), any LED or light buld should never notice this, certainly not creat noise. Rob, bring one over, I can put it on the scope and post the pix.
Chris, It is not recommended to continue using incandescents with DCC, as stated in your links and others as the lamps are almost always on and at a commonly brighter level which means more heat for longer times. Switch to LEDs. As for using incandescents, assuming most DCC systems put out 15v or less, a 16V bulb would get close to full brightness but should be dimmer than as bright as it could be. With a 10V DCC system, there is about 9V to the functions and motor, nearly half of a 16V bulb's brightness. I assume that in the Z scale locos that the bulbs are probably more like 12 -14 V range which still would not reach full brightness under a 10V DCC system. And, since the decoder voltage voltage is not regulated, any track losses in sections will cause the LED or incandescent to have corresponding brightness changes or even dropouts. Using a Lenz decoder with their PS1 will virtually eliminate the drop outs but not the dimming (there is a voltage difference between the PS1's backup voltage and the decoder's derived track voltage).
I have all mine with SMD LEDs I was just trying to help Henrik who was asking questions, by refering to the manual (available on the manufacturer's website) http://www.loksound.de/download/anl...ilotDCC_V20_US_user_manual_V11_Auflage_II.pdf Chris
Great help all! I will try to install a diode to drop the voltage tomorrow! Now i am of to clean my room... :-(
