Creating Latex molds

Peter Bechard May 3, 2012

  1. Peter Bechard

    Peter Bechard TrainBoard Member

    39
    0
    22
    Creating Latex or Vinyl moulds

    Hey gang,
    I've been a member here forever - since 2001, but haven't posted much. Atlas was my main turf, and now I'm on the prowl for a new home. Willing to give TB a good old fashioned try.

    I'm feeling ambitious and thinking that I'd like to try something new - like create a latex or vinyl mould of some existing tunnel portals and retaining walls. I'll eventually make Plaster of Paris castings using these, if that matters. Any suggestions on how to get started, or products to use? Tips and tricks from the pros always come in handy.

    Thanks,
    Peter
     
    Last edited by a moderator: May 3, 2012
  2. jpwisc

    jpwisc TrainBoard Member

    1,766
    452
    36
    Peter,
    First off, welcome.
    As for casting, check out Micromark's mold making kits. They don't cost much, they capture details well and they last a pretty good while if treated right.
     
  3. steamghost

    steamghost TrainBoard Member

    814
    15
    20
    Check out the Bragdon stuff as well. He sells good quality materials that mean less frustration. You should get his instructional video - his techniques can be applied to other brands.
     
  4. John Moore

    John Moore TrainBoard Supporter

    13,434
    12,332
    183
    Alumilite is another product that I have found to be excellent. They also offer a variety of resins that have different cure rates. In making molds that are going to be used multiple times it is best to reinforce them by incorporating some gauze bandage material in layers as the mold is being cast. Usually this is done by several pourings at a time into the mold box to establish a level base for the object being molded. When the first layer has set adequately a layer of bandage gauze is placed over the first layer and a 2nd is poured to get the level base. This will serve to reinforce the mold for multiple castings and unmoldings. I also suggest leaving at least a 1/2 inch wide border around the object to provide strength for larger objects like tunnel portals.
     
  5. PAL_Houston

    PAL_Houston TrainBoard Member

    125
    0
    17
    I kind of like your original idea to mold them in plaster or hydrocal. The plaster takes coloring dyes better and looks more stone or rock like than painted resin-based stuff. The mold itself you can make from latex painted on in layers, and perhaps including some re-inforcing gauze between the 2nd and 3rd or 3rd and 4th layers. You can buy this stuff at places like Hobby Lobby your LHS. Woodland Scenics also sells latex mold material and hydrocal, but it is comparatively expensive.
     
  6. PAL_Houston

    PAL_Houston TrainBoard Member

    125
    0
    17
    PS: I am no lawyer, but if you make your own masters, then you will be have copyright ownership of the cast parts. Conversely, if you purchased the parts that you are going to use as masters for your molds, you should not plan on making parts for anyone other than yourself so as to avoid infringing their copyrights.
     
  7. LOU D

    LOU D TrainBoard Member

    1,412
    2
    23
    I'd also stick with the hydrocal for the castings,but really,latex is like,so last Tuesday,LOL!!! Check out Smooth On casting products in Easton,Pa..Way cheaper than most other stuff you buy,same as Micro Marks products,but 2/3 the price.Latex takes FOREVER to make a decent mold,even then the quality is so so.When you buy a bottle of latex,it looks like a lot,but half of it is liquid that evaporates away.It smells aweful,and takes a week or more to make a mold that's nowhere near as good as a mold from silicone..If you're interested in the techniques after you see if you might want to try it,come back and ask,lots of serious casters here..LOU
     

Share This Page